bodice front drafting

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Wed, 11/18/2009 - 15:37
sewmama
User offline. Last seen 19 hours 22 min ago. Offline
Joined: 09/29/2009
Posts: 37

I am watching the bodice front drafting videos and it said reguarding making room for the bust that  the amount we add to the calculation will vary depending on the cup size (for the example in the video 1.5 cm was added for  the manikin) The video said the maximum you would add is 2.5.  So my question is how much do you add for each cup size?  The video is #17 Drawing the side dart. 

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Wed, 11/18/2009 - 17:33
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 7 hours 41 min ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 471
Re: Bodice Front Drafting

Dear Sewmama,

Regarding the amount that we add to the calculation for the side dart, you can compare your own proportions to the manikin and see how much your bust protrudes from your own body.

If it is less than the manikin, add less than 1.5 cm, if it is more you should add more, not exceeding 2.5 cm.

You can then use muslin fabric to sew a top and see how it fits. If you added more than needed to the dart intake calculation the dart point will not fill out with the bust point.

However if you added too little, you will see a ripple forming from the armhole towards the bust point. The side seam bellow the armhole may also droop down.

Thanks,

Nehzat

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