bust dart

Dear Lornelle,

Yes the side bust dart is essential on the pattern, but you can transfer it to other darts, gathering or pleating and cut lines. This is depending on the style of the garment you want to sew

If we ignore the bust dart the front of the garment will be pulling up, and be tight around the bust area. The side bust dart creates room for the bust. In garments where the bust dart is ignored, the fit is not right.

For example If it is done as a dart in can be transferred to the front shoulder, to the front armhole, go towards the bust point from the waistline side seam, upper hipline side seams, lower hipline side seam or anywhere in above or below these areas. Its' intake can also be transferred to the waist dart going to the bust point. It can also be transferred to where the center front line and waistline cross.

It can be transformed to a gathering or pleating as well, some examples are at the front shoulder seam, if there is a cut line above or below the bust point it can be transferred there.

Here is an example where there is no side bust dart, so I transferred it to a gathering around the neckline: T-Shirt Remodelling

It can be transferred to a cut line as well, for example a cut line that starts at the shoulder, neckline or armhole that pass the bust point or a horizontal cut line that passes the bust point.

Here is an example, where we transferred the side bust dart to a cut line starting above the bust point going down to the top of the pleated skirt: 4.Styling the Front Dress Pattern

There are still more ways to transfer this dart, the above are just few examples.

You can only keep the side bust closed as you mentioned, if we transfer it to other darts, cut lines or gathering, otherwise you will not be able to lay the pattern flat on the fabric.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat