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centerback dart
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Mon, 05/03/2010 - 10:09
Hello, on the back skirt block there is a dart on the center back line. I was wondering if I moved the back zipper to the side seam would that dart still stay where its at?
I was reviewing my instructions and I noticed that when I made my waist line I measured from E not A, so I think the centerback dart is there to stay for a personal block? I'm not positive. I guess I never thought of darts being at the sides or centerback, just the ones in the front and back on my store bought patterns.
Thanks,Veronica
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Hi Veronica,
To place the zipper on the side you need to transfer half of the center back dart's intake to the existing waist dart and the other half needs to be deducted from the side seam.
If the waist dart becomes wider than 3 cm, you can draw another dart about 5 to 6 cm away from it, on the right side of the dart. To draw the second dart, you draw it's center line parallel to the existing waist dart. Then you reduce the new intake of the waist dart by about 1/3 and make it into the intake of the second dart.
The second dart is also shorter, you can finish it at the upper hip line.
When we mark the waist measurement on the back pattern we should measure from E as you did.
If you watch the chapter: Why do we Need Darts, you will see that not all the excess fabric around the waist line can be taken in at the front and back waist darts. We also need to place the excess fabric in the side and center back. We also don't want a dart that is to wide because the end will not lay flat against the body. Therefore if we don't want to have a center back seam, the excess fabric should be taken in by new and / or existing darts and seams.
When sewing a skirt with a center back seam, we can use the top of the seam for the zipper opening. The zipper is sewn to the legs of the dart.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Thank-you Nehzat,
That helped alot. I totally understand now.
Veronica