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Cutting pattern on bias

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2 replies [Last post]
Sun, 09/18/2011 - 09:03
sewmama
User offline. Last seen 2 days 10 hours ago. Offline
Joined: 09/29/2009
Posts: 40

Dear Nehzat,

How can we tell when a pattern needs to be cut on the bias?  I would only know if a pattern said so, or I could feel the material on a garment I wanted to try to copy.  I was intriqued, and excited to learn how to tell by just a picture!  You answered a question about how to draft a dress from a picture sent in, and you said it would need to be cut on the bias.  Can you explain to us how we can tell by just a picture ! 

Thank you, so very much,

Carol

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Wed, 09/21/2011 - 11:10
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 2 hours 27 min ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 558
Re: Cutting Garments on a Bias

Dear Carol,

 

There are different thing to look for in order to tell if a garment is cut on a bias. Whether it is a picture or an actual garment.

- We can see that the grain line is cut at a 45 degree angle instead of straight lines.

- Some times on garments that are cut full circle or half circle, you may see that some of the grain lines are at an angle and some of them are straight. This is the nature of a circular cut. If a garment was cut at a 45 degree angle you would not see any straight grain lines.

- If you can not see the grain line in a picture, you can still say that the garment is cut on a bias by the way it falls on the body. For example if there are any pleats on the garment the folds look rounder compared to pleats cut on a straight grain line, which look flatter at the folds. Another example, on a skirt that is cut on a bias the hemline looks a little stretched out, since fabric stretch more along their bias. 

- It is also possible to eliminate some of the darts when a garment is cut on a bias and still get the garment to be a fitted. However when cutting on a straight grain line, to get the garment to be fitted you need to have all the darts or transfer their intakes to the cut lines.  

- Garments cut on a bias have a softer look to them as well

Hope this explain it.

 

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

 

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Thu, 09/22/2011 - 08:22
#2
sewmama
User offline. Last seen 2 days 10 hours ago. Offline
Joined: 09/29/2009
Posts: 40
Cutting on the bias

Thank you, very much, Nehzat.  Your answer was very informative and helpful.  It's exciting to be able to have someone answer questions that come up.  We can build on our knowledge, thanks to you, and progress forward. I really appreciate having a teacher!!!

 

Thank you,

Carol

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