At the second fitting, since the pants looked good and you had done all the steps according to the video lesson, everything went okay. However if you feel that the angle of the slant was to steep for the hemline (the front was a lot higher than the back) then you can lower the front a bit. This will mean that the front of the pants will sit more on the shoes, which is okay.
To see the instructions on cutting the excess fabric you can watch chapter 11.
It is okay if you finish the raw edge using a serger.
I suggest that you watch the video lesson a couple of times to see how each step is done.
Thank you so much, initially I did narrate the lessons myself, however because of my accent we decided to change the voice over so that it is more easily understood by all our members around the world. I appreciate your encouragement.
You are welcome. Here are a few more suggestions since you are still getting a little puckering.
You can try changing your needle to a size 10/70. Make sure that your needle is not blunt.
Before sewing by machine, pin and baste the seams by hand using a double threaded needle. This is especially useful on light and slippery fabrics. Make sure that the pins are at a ninety degree angle to the edge of the seam allowances.
It helps if you pin closer together with the layers flat on the table, when working on these types of fabric.
Nehzat, I lowered the tension on my machine and it did help with the puckering alot. There is a tiny bit puckering, but not horrible. I will always make sure that my fabric is aligned and that my patterns are on grain. Thank you so much for helping me learn sewing and patternmaking the right way. I will be posting my stitched skirt and bodice blocks soon. I will get some fine and smooth 100% cotton thread.
If your skirt has a waistband you can shorten the zipper from the top, otherwise from the bottom. The amount of zipper coils that go into the waistband will not be affecting the look of the waistband, since they are positioned under the seam allowances.
You can also trim the excess from the zipper just below the edge of the seam allowances, to layer them as well.
Thanks Nehzat for your quick response. Do you have any demonstration illustrated on Haut Couture type outfits? I am really keen to learn this technic - something I have not heard before, please demonstrate these type of outfits in your future demos. Thanks again.
I re-measured my side seam and I think I have put the paper too high under my arm as you have suspected. It's now 2.5cm shorter and the side seams stops below the armpit line.
I intend to sew a muslin to check on fit and if I have drafted the bodice pattern correctly.
Hello, I'll try to explain what I did. I drafted the top from the bodice block video and the bottom from the skirt block video, without any slit, just sewed up the back center seam. There was no ease so it was form fitting. So I made my own sheath. I got the idea from a "uniquely you" dress form. On the internet this strange dress form had a hugh, larger that normal foam body (because it had to be compressed) and forced into a sheath that fit the woman like a second skin. On the internet I read of a lot of women having trouble compressing this foam body into the sheath it comes with ( the sheath had a zipper on the back) and you had to compress and force the zipper to close over the foam body. After I made my sheath, I purchased cups, like you put in a swimsuit or dress, and put these in the bust area and filled the cups with foam. I took my storebought (my double) dress form off the stand, taped and wrapped foam around the pole (so it would still turn) as I kept adding and taping foam around it to fill in as much as I could of the sheath. Then I used a spray glue and layered batting around the foam to fill in the spaces to fit the sheath better and smoother. I had one sheath made of muslin, I put this on the body and filled in any remaining spaces with batting. Then hand sewed the back seam. I made a second sheath with a more durable material, and covered her with a second skin, then sewed up the final sheath the same way. I sewed a draw string cord around the bottom and pulled and tied it from underneath. So the new dress form turns on the stand just like the original "my double" dress form did.
It did take a lot of time, and thought, but I just made it "my project". I did a lot of hand sewing on it, for example to make a neck and shoulder socket, I sewed those in by hand.
I hope this helped you. Thank you for writing me. I wish you the best on your dress form. :)
One way you can fix this is to secure the ends of the threads that hold the beading around the darts.
You can also transfer the waist and bust darts to a princess seam if you want.
A thirds option which is used in haut couture is to take in the darts in the lining if you have a lining, but instead of sewing the dart on the beaded or lace fabric along a straight line, you follow the predominant designs of the fabric in the dart are. Cut around the beads or lace on one side with a small amount of space to prevent damaging the design. Then slide the cut section over the rest to eliminate the excess fabric. Then you pin and secure the edges by hand. If the over lapped section is too large you can trim from the lower layer to get a finer look.
Yes, I clipped a notch in the hem allowance only for the one that was wider. The shorter hem allowance does not need to be clipped. If you notice the section that is not cut in the wider hem allowance is almost the same as the narrower hem allowance.
Yes it is possible to translate the patterns to menswear. But the bust darts would need to be eliminated. The front openings of the jackets, shirts and pants would need to be reversed for men.
Make sure that you have taken the measurements and done the calculations correctly. This should not happen otherwise. It could be that you have measured the side seam longer than it is and or the bodice length was measured less than it really is.
Another situation that might cause this is that you placed the folded paper too high under the arm, when you measured the side seam length.
Welcome to our site, I hope that you will be able to improve your sewing skills. I would be happy to see your projects in our member photo gallery as well.
Dear knottycarla,
At the second fitting, since the pants looked good and you had done all the steps according to the video lesson, everything went okay. However if you feel that the angle of the slant was to steep for the hemline (the front was a lot higher than the back) then you can lower the front a bit. This will mean that the front of the pants will sit more on the shoes, which is okay.
To see the instructions on cutting the excess fabric you can watch chapter 11.
It is okay if you finish the raw edge using a serger.
I suggest that you watch the video lesson a couple of times to see how each step is done.
Let me know how you manage with the second pants.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear ddagefoe
Thank you so much. I am happy to see that you have been able to benefit from the video lesson and learned a new technique as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Maureen,
Thank you so much, initially I did narrate the lessons myself, however because of my accent we decided to change the voice over so that it is more easily understood by all our members around the world. I appreciate your encouragement.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Veronica,
You are welcome. Here are a few more suggestions since you are still getting a little puckering.
You can try changing your needle to a size 10/70. Make sure that your needle is not blunt.
Before sewing by machine, pin and baste the seams by hand using a double threaded needle. This is especially useful on light and slippery fabrics. Make sure that the pins are at a ninety degree angle to the edge of the seam allowances.
It helps if you pin closer together with the layers flat on the table, when working on these types of fabric.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Nehzat, I lowered the tension on my machine and it did help with the puckering alot. There is a tiny bit puckering, but not horrible. I will always make sure that my fabric is aligned and that my patterns are on grain. Thank you so much for helping me learn sewing and patternmaking the right way. I will be posting my stitched skirt and bodice blocks soon. I will get some fine and smooth 100% cotton thread.
Veronica
Ok, Nehzat, thank you very much!
Sincerely,
Carol
Dear Carol,
If your skirt has a waistband you can shorten the zipper from the top, otherwise from the bottom. The amount of zipper coils that go into the waistband will not be affecting the look of the waistband, since they are positioned under the seam allowances.
You can also trim the excess from the zipper just below the edge of the seam allowances, to layer them as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Rosie,
I think this is a good idea for a future lesson, thanks so much for the suggestion.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear dandelion,
Welcome to our site, I hope that you will be able to accomplish sewing what you like.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Chit,
Welcome to our site, I hope that you can benefit from the videos and share your work with us.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thanks Nehzat for your quick response. Do you have any demonstration illustrated on Haut Couture type outfits? I am really keen to learn this technic - something I have not heard before, please demonstrate these type of outfits in your future demos. Thanks again.
Hi,
You did a good job! Would you mind sharing how to make this one. It looks great.
Sewsewmom
Thank you very much ! I hope I can make it.
You are sewmama, I am sewsewmom.Ha !
Happy sewing!
Thank you Nehzat for your reply.
I re-measured my side seam and I think I have put the paper too high under my arm as you have suspected. It's now 2.5cm shorter and the side seams stops below the armpit line.
I intend to sew a muslin to check on fit and if I have drafted the bodice pattern correctly.
Barbara
Thanks Nehzat! You are very helpful.
Hello, I'll try to explain what I did. I drafted the top from the bodice block video and the bottom from the skirt block video, without any slit, just sewed up the back center seam. There was no ease so it was form fitting. So I made my own sheath. I got the idea from a "uniquely you" dress form. On the internet this strange dress form had a hugh, larger that normal foam body (because it had to be compressed) and forced into a sheath that fit the woman like a second skin. On the internet I read of a lot of women having trouble compressing this foam body into the sheath it comes with ( the sheath had a zipper on the back) and you had to compress and force the zipper to close over the foam body. After I made my sheath, I purchased cups, like you put in a swimsuit or dress, and put these in the bust area and filled the cups with foam. I took my storebought (my double) dress form off the stand, taped and wrapped foam around the pole (so it would still turn) as I kept adding and taping foam around it to fill in as much as I could of the sheath. Then I used a spray glue and layered batting around the foam to fill in the spaces to fit the sheath better and smoother. I had one sheath made of muslin, I put this on the body and filled in any remaining spaces with batting. Then hand sewed the back seam. I made a second sheath with a more durable material, and covered her with a second skin, then sewed up the final sheath the same way. I sewed a draw string cord around the bottom and pulled and tied it from underneath. So the new dress form turns on the stand just like the original "my double" dress form did.
It did take a lot of time, and thought, but I just made it "my project". I did a lot of hand sewing on it, for example to make a neck and shoulder socket, I sewed those in by hand.
I hope this helped you. Thank you for writing me. I wish you the best on your dress form. :)
Sincerely,
Carol
Dear rosie_vora,
One way you can fix this is to secure the ends of the threads that hold the beading around the darts.
You can also transfer the waist and bust darts to a princess seam if you want.
A thirds option which is used in haut couture is to take in the darts in the lining if you have a lining, but instead of sewing the dart on the beaded or lace fabric along a straight line, you follow the predominant designs of the fabric in the dart are. Cut around the beads or lace on one side with a small amount of space to prevent damaging the design. Then slide the cut section over the rest to eliminate the excess fabric. Then you pin and secure the edges by hand. If the over lapped section is too large you can trim from the lower layer to get a finer look.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
You can watch how to fuse the interfacing to the fabric on at the 3:34 minute mark of chapter 4 here.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
Yes, I clipped a notch in the hem allowance only for the one that was wider. The shorter hem allowance does not need to be clipped. If you notice the section that is not cut in the wider hem allowance is almost the same as the narrower hem allowance.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
Yes it is possible to translate the patterns to menswear. But the bust darts would need to be eliminated. The front openings of the jackets, shirts and pants would need to be reversed for men.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Barbara,
I can see from the picture that you have fixed the issue with the crotch length. Congratulations on your accomplishment, I am happy for your success.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Barbara,
Make sure that you have taken the measurements and done the calculations correctly. This should not happen otherwise. It could be that you have measured the side seam longer than it is and or the bodice length was measured less than it really is.
Another situation that might cause this is that you placed the folded paper too high under the arm, when you measured the side seam length.
Let me know if this helps.
Happy sewing
Nehzat
Dear Rozmina,
Thanks so much for your kind words, they are greatly appreciated.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear corinne821,
Welcome to our site, I hope that you will be able to improve your sewing skills. I would be happy to see your projects in our member photo gallery as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear lovelygena,
Welcome to our site, I am sure that the video lessons will help you realise your dreams.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat