We fixed the spelling in your question. I am happy to see that you have succeeded in getting to this point. The fabric that I used is a Giorgio Armani. You can purchase a brocade fabric, which could be a blend of wool, silk, rayon, linen, cotton or polyester.
I like to thank you for your reply, I just want to make sure I understand in your answer, yes the pants I have have to be taken in at the inner seam leg one in half inches total, so if I figured it right it be 3/4in. on each leg at the inner seam.would I start close by the crotch, all the way until I get close the knee and gradually tapper it in, I hope that's correct, it sort of difficult for me to read instructions, I learn better by watching it being demonstrated. If you can reply letting me if I am correct in what you meant.
Thank You
Natsumi
thanks for the reply, what I have here to explain it again is a pair of pants which need to be taken on the legs at the inner seam one in half inch which I need to take it 3/4in. on each leg of inner seam, so I would start from the crotch of the pants, 3/4in and gradually bring it into regular seam by the knee. I hope that I explained a little better, but what I'm getting from your reply was make it 3/4in. by the thigh in the inner seam and gradually into the regular seam, don't want to sew it from crotch 3/4in all the way down, just between the crotch until I get close to the knee and gradually tapper it in to the regular seam. I hope I said that right for you to understand me better.
Thanks Natsumi
From what I understand, you have one and a half inch to take in, in total, from the hemline up. To do this you will take in half of this amount from the seam line, tapering the seam line as you gradually reach somewhere between the knee and the crotch.
We do not have a pattern for jumpsuits as of now. I will add this to my list for future lessons.
In the mean time you can combine the bodice block pattern and the pants block pattern together to get a jumpsuit pattern. Then style according to your own taste.
I would suggest that you use marino wool to crotchet your gloves. However this is a subject about which I would need to make a video lesson. We might do this in the future, for now here is the a full finger crotchet glove video I found, however it is in German. But the video is detailed.
You will need the following materials to draft your own patterns.
Pattern paper or isle paper
Different size rulers about 45 cm or 18 inches and about 90 cm or 36 inches (transparent kind)
Triangle ruler (transparent kind)
Pencils (different colors)
Sharpener
Eraser
Scotch tape (transparent kind)
Measuring tape
Scissors
Pins
Since we did not add seam allowances to the bodice block pattern video lesson, we did not mark the notches either.
To see how you can mark the notches on the bodice block patterns, you can watch these chapter below to get an idea, as the placement of the notches differ depending on the style of the garment we are sewing.
Do a fitting after removing the sleeves. Check to see how much excess you have along the armholes at the shoulder lines. Pinch the excess amount, This should give you an idea of how much you will need to take in from the shoulder seams.
Now you can decide if you want to keep the armholes as they are or if you want to shorten the shoulders or lower the armholes.
If you have excess material along the side seams, you can take in from the side seams as well.
When drawing you patterns, you will use all of your lengthwise measurements from your body, such as bodice length, bust length, upper and lower hip lengths etc. Therefore, when you draw the darts, you are drawing them according to your own body measurements. So you dont have to worry about adjusting them for your height, as they are already the right length.
If you are using stretchy material, you can use the same pattern you draft from watching the pants block pattern drafting video lesson, without sewing the zipper.
However for a non stretchy material, you will need to add some ease to be able to pull on the pants. You can add as much as you want depending on your own preference. If you want the pants to fit like pajamas, you will need to add more ease.
You can add the ease to the front and back patterns, by drawing a line from the bottom of the waist dart to the hemline, parallel to the center front and the center back line. Then cut each pattern in half and separate the two pieces for the front and back pants patterns by the same amount (up to 7 cm). Place paper under and tape to keep it in place. When taping the pieces, first tape the paper to one side, then measure and mark the distance you like along the top and bottom of the paper from the cut line. Connect the marks with a line. Then place the second piece along this line, make sure the horizontal lines of the pants pattern pieces are also aligned (use a ruler to check). Tape to keep the second piece in place. Repeat for the other pants pattern. You can also add ease to the front and back crotch lines by drawing shallower curves for each crotch line. You can do this by, extending the waistlines out from the center front and back lines and drawing new shallower crotch line curves. Since you are not using a zipper.
Do a test fitting on muslin before cutting your fabric. This way you make sure you have added the amount you like.
Since the shirt we are sewing does not have shoulder pads, we will draft our pattern with the shoulder darts. Because our shirt has a shoulder yoke, we will transfer the shoulder dart into the bottom seam line of the shoulder yoke.
To draw the grain line on the front pattern, we need to draw a line parallel to the center front line, between the center front line and the waist dart. The grain line should be closer to the waist dart. The grain line can start from about the armpit line and end about the upper hipline. For the back block pattern the line should be parallel to the center back line, closer to the waist dart.
When drafting the back skirt pattern, we draw the center back dart. But on the front pattern we dont have any center front dart. This is why the side seam lines between the waistline and the lower hipline are at a different angle on the front and back skirt patterns. That is why the curved line on the front pattern is a bit longer.
Make sure to mark notches on your skirt pattern for the lower hipline on the front and back. When sewing the skirt side seams, all you need to do is line up the notches you have marked on the waistline and lower hipline and the hemline and pin, then pin in between as well. The excess length of the front side seam will be distributed evenly between the waistline and the lower hipline. Since this area is cut at an angle the difference will not be visible in the finished seams.
When measuring the front and back bodice length, the shape of the body can make it so that there is a difference between the front and back. Most people will get a longer length for the front bodice length. As long as you measure the way I explain in the lesson it will be okay even if the back bodice length is longer. Since we use the same measurement for the front and back bodice side seam lengths, the front and back pieces will be sewn together without any problems.
To draw the waist darts, we need to calculate the intake for each dart. In the bodice pattern drafting lesson I explain that the waist circumference should be subtracted from the lower hip or upper hip circumference, whichever is the largest (usually the lower hip circumference is larger, but for someone who have a large belly, the upper hip may be larger). Then we divide the difference by 9 to get our dart intakes. When we need to mark the waist measurement on the front and back patterns, along the waistline, we need to add the dart intake as well. Otherwise the waistline will be too tight after drawing the waist darts.
I suggest that you also watch 4. Why do we Need Darts in the skirt block pattern making video lesson to get a better idea about waist darts.
The same concept applies to shoulder darts. To make room for the shoulder blade on the back bodice pattern, we need to add 2 cm to the shoulder measurement when marking the shoulder length on the pattern. This way when we draw the dart the shoulder length will not decrease, but we still make room for the protruding shoulder blade below the shoulder line.
I suggest that you get a machine in the $300 to $400 dollar range. Any machine in this price range will be able to handle both light and heavy weight fabrics.
When purchasing your machine take a few samples of fabric into the store and test the machine before buying.
Welcome to our site. By watching the pants block pattern drafting and the adjusting for different body shapes video lessons, I am sure you will be able to sew your own well fitting pull on pants.
Welcome to our site. We have many lessons covering pattern drafting and styling. You will be able to draft your bodice, sleeve, skirt pants block patterns etc. We also have dress sewing lessons where you will learn how to combine the bodice and skirt block patterns and style them to sew dresses.
i want to buy a sewing machine that can work on thin fabric ( like veil ) & thick fabric ( like Jeans ) or i have to buy both separately ? , i have one sewing machine here, it can't work on thick fabric neither thin fabric well, i can't do anything good , or if i buy something to change inside there to make my machine can be stronger, will it help my sewing machine can go through on thick fabric ? if you know any good machine please recommend me, i need your help
Dear clbeams,
We fixed the spelling in your question. I am happy to see that you have succeeded in getting to this point. The fabric that I used is a Giorgio Armani. You can purchase a brocade fabric, which could be a blend of wool, silk, rayon, linen, cotton or polyester.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I like to thank you for your reply, I just want to make sure I understand in your answer, yes the pants I have have to be taken in at the inner seam leg one in half inches total, so if I figured it right it be 3/4in. on each leg at the inner seam.would I start close by the crotch, all the way until I get close the knee and gradually tapper it in, I hope that's correct, it sort of difficult for me to read instructions, I learn better by watching it being demonstrated. If you can reply letting me if I am correct in what you meant.
Thank You
Natsumi
thanks for the reply, what I have here to explain it again is a pair of pants which need to be taken on the legs at the inner seam one in half inch which I need to take it 3/4in. on each leg of inner seam, so I would start from the crotch of the pants, 3/4in and gradually bring it into regular seam by the knee. I hope that I explained a little better, but what I'm getting from your reply was make it 3/4in. by the thigh in the inner seam and gradually into the regular seam, don't want to sew it from crotch 3/4in all the way down, just between the crotch until I get close to the knee and gradually tapper it in to the regular seam. I hope I said that right for you to understand me better.
Thanks Natsumi
Sorry - meant to say "panel" dress, not "pan" dress.
Dear Natsumi,
From what I understand, you have one and a half inch to take in, in total, from the hemline up. To do this you will take in half of this amount from the seam line, tapering the seam line as you gradually reach somewhere between the knee and the crotch.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Khemsan,
We do not have a pattern for jumpsuits as of now. I will add this to my list for future lessons.
In the mean time you can combine the bodice block pattern and the pants block pattern together to get a jumpsuit pattern. Then style according to your own taste.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Victorystitch,
I would suggest that you use marino wool to crotchet your gloves. However this is a subject about which I would need to make a video lesson. We might do this in the future, for now here is the a full finger crotchet glove video I found, however it is in German. But the video is detailed.
http://youtu.be/4gw5jsF7P4A
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
I believe that here you are referring to the skirt sewing video lesson.
We sew the zipper from point E for the shell, for the lining we move this point a bit inwards.
Yes for the shell the end of the zipper is point F, for the lining we sew the center back seam about 2 cm lower than F.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Jeni,
You will need the following materials to draft your own patterns.
Pattern paper or isle paper
Different size rulers about 45 cm or 18 inches and about 90 cm or 36 inches (transparent kind)
Triangle ruler (transparent kind)
Pencils (different colors)
Sharpener
Eraser
Scotch tape (transparent kind)
Measuring tape
Scissors
Pins
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jleuterman,
Since we did not add seam allowances to the bodice block pattern video lesson, we did not mark the notches either.
To see how you can mark the notches on the bodice block patterns, you can watch these chapter below to get an idea, as the placement of the notches differ depending on the style of the garment we are sewing.
From the panel dress sewing lesson.
Marking the Tailor Tacks and Notches on the Shell Panels
From the shirt sewing video lesson.
Marking the Notch and Tailor's Tack Locations on the Shirt Patterns
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear tricone,
Do a fitting after removing the sleeves. Check to see how much excess you have along the armholes at the shoulder lines. Pinch the excess amount, This should give you an idea of how much you will need to take in from the shoulder seams.
Now you can decide if you want to keep the armholes as they are or if you want to shorten the shoulders or lower the armholes.
If you have excess material along the side seams, you can take in from the side seams as well.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
When drawing you patterns, you will use all of your lengthwise measurements from your body, such as bodice length, bust length, upper and lower hip lengths etc. Therefore, when you draw the darts, you are drawing them according to your own body measurements. So you dont have to worry about adjusting them for your height, as they are already the right length.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nancy,
To learn how to adjust your pants block pattern to your body shape you need to watch the Pants Pattern Alteration (Adjustment) for Different Body Shapes Online Video Lesson.
If you are using stretchy material, you can use the same pattern you draft from watching the pants block pattern drafting video lesson, without sewing the zipper.
However for a non stretchy material, you will need to add some ease to be able to pull on the pants. You can add as much as you want depending on your own preference. If you want the pants to fit like pajamas, you will need to add more ease.
You can add the ease to the front and back patterns, by drawing a line from the bottom of the waist dart to the hemline, parallel to the center front and the center back line. Then cut each pattern in half and separate the two pieces for the front and back pants patterns by the same amount (up to 7 cm). Place paper under and tape to keep it in place. When taping the pieces, first tape the paper to one side, then measure and mark the distance you like along the top and bottom of the paper from the cut line. Connect the marks with a line. Then place the second piece along this line, make sure the horizontal lines of the pants pattern pieces are also aligned (use a ruler to check). Tape to keep the second piece in place. Repeat for the other pants pattern. You can also add ease to the front and back crotch lines by drawing shallower curves for each crotch line. You can do this by, extending the waistlines out from the center front and back lines and drawing new shallower crotch line curves. Since you are not using a zipper.
Do a test fitting on muslin before cutting your fabric. This way you make sure you have added the amount you like.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Kate,
Since the shirt we are sewing does not have shoulder pads, we will draft our pattern with the shoulder darts. Because our shirt has a shoulder yoke, we will transfer the shoulder dart into the bottom seam line of the shoulder yoke.
To draw the grain line on the front pattern, we need to draw a line parallel to the center front line, between the center front line and the waist dart. The grain line should be closer to the waist dart. The grain line can start from about the armpit line and end about the upper hipline. For the back block pattern the line should be parallel to the center back line, closer to the waist dart.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
When drafting the back skirt pattern, we draw the center back dart. But on the front pattern we dont have any center front dart. This is why the side seam lines between the waistline and the lower hipline are at a different angle on the front and back skirt patterns. That is why the curved line on the front pattern is a bit longer.
Make sure to mark notches on your skirt pattern for the lower hipline on the front and back. When sewing the skirt side seams, all you need to do is line up the notches you have marked on the waistline and lower hipline and the hemline and pin, then pin in between as well. The excess length of the front side seam will be distributed evenly between the waistline and the lower hipline. Since this area is cut at an angle the difference will not be visible in the finished seams.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear purnima123,
When measuring the front and back bodice length, the shape of the body can make it so that there is a difference between the front and back. Most people will get a longer length for the front bodice length. As long as you measure the way I explain in the lesson it will be okay even if the back bodice length is longer. Since we use the same measurement for the front and back bodice side seam lengths, the front and back pieces will be sewn together without any problems.
To draw the waist darts, we need to calculate the intake for each dart. In the bodice pattern drafting lesson I explain that the waist circumference should be subtracted from the lower hip or upper hip circumference, whichever is the largest (usually the lower hip circumference is larger, but for someone who have a large belly, the upper hip may be larger). Then we divide the difference by 9 to get our dart intakes. When we need to mark the waist measurement on the front and back patterns, along the waistline, we need to add the dart intake as well. Otherwise the waistline will be too tight after drawing the waist darts.
I suggest that you also watch 4. Why do we Need Darts in the skirt block pattern making video lesson to get a better idea about waist darts.
The same concept applies to shoulder darts. To make room for the shoulder blade on the back bodice pattern, we need to add 2 cm to the shoulder measurement when marking the shoulder length on the pattern. This way when we draw the dart the shoulder length will not decrease, but we still make room for the protruding shoulder blade below the shoulder line.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
i got it, thank you very much ^__^
Dear red173015,
I suggest that you get a machine in the $300 to $400 dollar range. Any machine in this price range will be able to handle both light and heavy weight fabrics.
When purchasing your machine take a few samples of fabric into the store and test the machine before buying.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Alicecreation,
By clicking on this link, you will be able to find all of our current DVD titles.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear tickle,
The last part of the shirt sewing video lesson will be releases shortly. Thanks for our suggestion, I will add it to my list for future lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear luvsewing,
Welcome to our site. I hope that you can learn more about sewing and be successful in your business.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nancyben1951,
Welcome to our site. By watching the pants block pattern drafting and the adjusting for different body shapes video lessons, I am sure you will be able to sew your own well fitting pull on pants.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Ruru,
Welcome to our site. We have many lessons covering pattern drafting and styling. You will be able to draft your bodice, sleeve, skirt pants block patterns etc. We also have dress sewing lessons where you will learn how to combine the bodice and skirt block patterns and style them to sew dresses.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Jeni,
Welcome to our site. I am sure you will be able to learn a lot and make new friends as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
i want to buy a sewing machine that can work on thin fabric ( like veil ) & thick fabric ( like Jeans ) or i have to buy both separately ? , i have one sewing machine here, it can't work on thick fabric neither thin fabric well, i can't do anything good , or if i buy something to change inside there to make my machine can be stronger, will it help my sewing machine can go through on thick fabric ? if you know any good machine please recommend me, i need your help
Thank you so much .