Hi Di, Just came across the dresses u made for u and ur daughters. Your work is really nice. I esp loved the applique work on the cardigan. Really wonderful. Hope u make lots more in the future.
I believe that the measurements you have are the front and back crotch lengths not the front and back rise of the pants. Rise is the distance between the waistline and the crotch point on a straight line not along a curved crotch line. You need to see if you can find the actual rise before continuing. Make sure to also have the waist, upper hip and lower hip circumferences, to be able to draw the pattern.
A tall skinny person and a short full figured person can have the same crotch lengths, however the shape of the curved crotch lines will vary greatly. So we need to have other measurements as well.
Please watch the pants pattern making video lessons to get a better idea of what I mean.
Yes you can add a strip of knitted fusible interfacing to the zipper opening to keep it from stretching. Make sure the interfacing is placed where you intend to sew the stitching line.
As always do a test to make sure the interfacing will work and to find the right temperature for the iron. Too much heat may damage your fleece.
If you like you may also hand baste a ribbon to the wrong side of your fabric instead of interfacing. Then hand baste the zipper before sewing it by machine. This way the fleece will not stretch, since it is placed between the ribbon and the zipper tape. Make sure to press the ribbon first, it may shrink after washing and heat drying.
That is a great suggestion, Nehzat. I don't think I can adjust the stitch length on my Jem Gold Plus machine. I'll look at the manual again. Practice does make perfect and, with the weather being what it may, I'll have plenty of time to do just that. Take care!
You can choose from one of the options below, depending on your body shape.
For a flatter buttocks
If you are happy with the fit on the front, but you have excess fabric below the buttocks. You can shorten the back crotch length the way I show in the video lesson.
For a flatter buttocks and protruding belly
If it seams that the fabric is pulling on the tummy area, you can add to the front crotch length the way I show in the video lesson. However since you have excess fabric below the buttocks, you still need to reduce the back crotch length.
1. You can use a minimum or 25% stretch-woven fabrics or 10% stretch for knit fabrics.
2. You need to add the amount of ease you want to the side seam, from the waistline to the hipline. Then draw a new side seam down, tapering it gradually and merging it with the existing side seam.
I suggest that you first baste all your fold lines, then check the screw on your blind hem foot, if you have one. Adjust the screw to see if it makes a difference depending on where it is placed. You can also adjust the width of your stitches to make sure that the needle catches the folded fabric in the right place. This should help avoid the fabric from buckling.
This technique needs practice, so that we hold the fabric in a way, so that the needle can catch the fabric just right. I suggest using a 100 percent cotton fabric when practicing, then moving on and practicing on your own fabric.
You can draft the pattern as it is shown in the videos, with the darts. Then later when you are sewing the garment you can ignore the all the darts except the side bust dart. Unless you have a flat chest then you do not have to draw the side bust dart in the first place.
If you choose to not have a side bust dart regardless of your body shape, you can transfer it into the neckline and then gather the neckline and have piping around it.
You can also transfer the side bust dart into the shoulder and have a shoulder yoke, then gather the front fabric below the shoulder yoke.
You can also have a horizontal seam about the armpit line, then close the side bust dart and transfer it's intake towards the cut line. Then you can gather or use pleats to absorb the excess fabric when you sew the bottom piece to the top piece.
If we choose to eliminate the side bust dart altogether, without transferring it's intake somewhere else, the hemline of the garment will not fall evenly.
Thanks for the quick reply! Another question about crotch line, what if I didn't have the pants but had the finish measurements except for the actual hem line (for example, the hem would be left longer so leaving extra material to measure for actual hem later) how would I figure out the crotch line if the rise is 28cm front, 38cm back? Rise measurements were taken on a straight line by pulling slightly at the seam. The unfinished hem line would be 110cm from top of side waistband to bottom of unfinished pants.
Hi, my name is Nelly. I have been using banner paper for my block pattern. It works great. You might be able to find them any office supplies stores. I do not know if there is Office Depot in Toronto. If so, go there you will find it there. I hope this info will help you.
Thank you for your kind words, Nehzat! I'm having a devil of a time getting my blind hem stitches to not buckle due to not hitting the fabric just right. Any tips on using the guide on the foot to insure I do this properly? Thanks!!!!!
In order to draw the crotch level line using your pants, you need to measure from the hemline up to the crotch. Lay the pants flat on the table front side up. Then place a ruler along the crotch line, passing the crotch point, parallel to the hemline. Measure straight down to the hemline to get the position of the crotch level line on your pattern. When you draw the pattern, measure from the hemline up and mark the crotch level line position on it.
Since men's pants waistbands have a seam along the center back and are a bit narrower along the top than the bottom edge, you should be measuring along the bottom edge of the waistband. Since that is the place it is joined to the pants.
The difference you get by subtracting the waist circumference from either the upper hip circumference or the lower hip circumference, can not be taken in just from the back or the front or the sides. Unless the person has a protruding tummy, in such a case you can eliminate the front waist darts, and add their intakes to the back and side darts. If some one has a protruding buttocks and a flatter tummy, we can reduce the intake of the front darts and add them to the back darts. If the back dart intakes becomes too wide, we can split each dart into two.
For pants sewn for men, you can transfer the front dart intakes into pleats. If you do not want pleats in the front, you can eliminate the front darts and add their intakes to the side and back darts.
In your case you should spread the front waist dart intakes to the side, back waist darts and the center back dart. It is not a good idea to have two large waist darts in the back, as the end of the darts will stick out away from the body.
Welcome to our site. I am sure that you will be able to achieve your goal and do the alterations for your family. We do have alterations videos, but I suggest you watch the sewing lessons as they show how different garments are constructed. These will help you learn more about alterations as well.
I don't know if this will help you in Canada, but just in case anybody else in the State has the same question:
I bought a 36 inch roll of white paper at Wal-Mart several years ago. I beleive it was in the Art and Crafts area. Anyway, it works perfectly for drawing the front and back on one sheet. I found this really helps in keeping everything lined up as you design the pattern. I draw a center line and then when I draw out the horizontal lines I draw them all the way across the paper. Saves time when going from the back to the front design.
This topic would require a whole lesson to explain. However in the meantime you can take an old hoody apart and use it as your pattern. Second hand shops are a good source for finding garments at a low price and experiment with.
Hi Di, Just came across the dresses u made for u and ur daughters. Your work is really nice. I esp loved the applique work on the cardigan. Really wonderful. Hope u make lots more in the future.
Happy sewing ,
Amritha
Dear hardy,
I believe that the measurements you have are the front and back crotch lengths not the front and back rise of the pants. Rise is the distance between the waistline and the crotch point on a straight line not along a curved crotch line. You need to see if you can find the actual rise before continuing. Make sure to also have the waist, upper hip and lower hip circumferences, to be able to draw the pattern.
A tall skinny person and a short full figured person can have the same crotch lengths, however the shape of the curved crotch lines will vary greatly. So we need to have other measurements as well.
Please watch the pants pattern making video lessons to get a better idea of what I mean.
Hope this helps. Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
Yes you can add a strip of knitted fusible interfacing to the zipper opening to keep it from stretching. Make sure the interfacing is placed where you intend to sew the stitching line.
As always do a test to make sure the interfacing will work and to find the right temperature for the iron. Too much heat may damage your fleece.
If you like you may also hand baste a ribbon to the wrong side of your fabric instead of interfacing. Then hand baste the zipper before sewing it by machine. This way the fleece will not stretch, since it is placed between the ribbon and the zipper tape. Make sure to press the ribbon first, it may shrink after washing and heat drying.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat,
thank you for your answer. It's help me a lot.
Best regards,
Tomasz
That is a great suggestion, Nehzat. I don't think I can adjust the stitch length on my Jem Gold Plus machine. I'll look at the manual again. Practice does make perfect and, with the weather being what it may, I'll have plenty of time to do just that. Take care!
Dear sewsewmom,
You can choose from one of the options below, depending on your body shape.
For a flatter buttocks
If you are happy with the fit on the front, but you have excess fabric below the buttocks. You can shorten the back crotch length the way I show in the video lesson.
For a flatter buttocks and protruding belly
If it seams that the fabric is pulling on the tummy area, you can add to the front crotch length the way I show in the video lesson. However since you have excess fabric below the buttocks, you still need to reduce the back crotch length.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
1. You can use a minimum or 25% stretch-woven fabrics or 10% stretch for knit fabrics.
2. You need to add the amount of ease you want to the side seam, from the waistline to the hipline. Then draw a new side seam down, tapering it gradually and merging it with the existing side seam.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Donna,
I suggest that you first baste all your fold lines, then check the screw on your blind hem foot, if you have one. Adjust the screw to see if it makes a difference depending on where it is placed. You can also adjust the width of your stitches to make sure that the needle catches the folded fabric in the right place. This should help avoid the fabric from buckling.
This technique needs practice, so that we hold the fabric in a way, so that the needle can catch the fabric just right. I suggest using a 100 percent cotton fabric when practicing, then moving on and practicing on your own fabric.
Hope this helps. Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Bynah,
You can draft the pattern as it is shown in the videos, with the darts. Then later when you are sewing the garment you can ignore the all the darts except the side bust dart. Unless you have a flat chest then you do not have to draw the side bust dart in the first place.
If you choose to not have a side bust dart regardless of your body shape, you can transfer it into the neckline and then gather the neckline and have piping around it.
You can also transfer the side bust dart into the shoulder and have a shoulder yoke, then gather the front fabric below the shoulder yoke.
You can also have a horizontal seam about the armpit line, then close the side bust dart and transfer it's intake towards the cut line. Then you can gather or use pleats to absorb the excess fabric when you sew the bottom piece to the top piece.
If we choose to eliminate the side bust dart altogether, without transferring it's intake somewhere else, the hemline of the garment will not fall evenly.
In the future I will teach these techniques.
Hope this helps you for now. Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thanks for the quick reply! Another question about crotch line, what if I didn't have the pants but had the finish measurements except for the actual hem line (for example, the hem would be left longer so leaving extra material to measure for actual hem later) how would I figure out the crotch line if the rise is 28cm front, 38cm back? Rise measurements were taken on a straight line by pulling slightly at the seam. The unfinished hem line would be 110cm from top of side waistband to bottom of unfinished pants.
Hi, my name is Nelly. I have been using banner paper for my block pattern. It works great. You might be able to find them any office supplies stores. I do not know if there is Office Depot in Toronto. If so, go there you will find it there. I hope this info will help you.
Thanks. Nelly
Thank you for your kind words, Nehzat! I'm having a devil of a time getting my blind hem stitches to not buckle due to not hitting the fabric just right. Any tips on using the guide on the foot to insure I do this properly? Thanks!!!!!
Dear Hardy,
In order to draw the crotch level line using your pants, you need to measure from the hemline up to the crotch. Lay the pants flat on the table front side up. Then place a ruler along the crotch line, passing the crotch point, parallel to the hemline. Measure straight down to the hemline to get the position of the crotch level line on your pattern. When you draw the pattern, measure from the hemline up and mark the crotch level line position on it.
Since men's pants waistbands have a seam along the center back and are a bit narrower along the top than the bottom edge, you should be measuring along the bottom edge of the waistband. Since that is the place it is joined to the pants.
Hope this helps. Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Tomasz,
The difference you get by subtracting the waist circumference from either the upper hip circumference or the lower hip circumference, can not be taken in just from the back or the front or the sides. Unless the person has a protruding tummy, in such a case you can eliminate the front waist darts, and add their intakes to the back and side darts. If some one has a protruding buttocks and a flatter tummy, we can reduce the intake of the front darts and add them to the back darts. If the back dart intakes becomes too wide, we can split each dart into two.
For pants sewn for men, you can transfer the front dart intakes into pleats. If you do not want pleats in the front, you can eliminate the front darts and add their intakes to the side and back darts.
In your case you should spread the front waist dart intakes to the side, back waist darts and the center back dart. It is not a good idea to have two large waist darts in the back, as the end of the darts will stick out away from the body.
Hope this helps. Happy sewing,
Nehzat
You can usually find Kraft Brown Paper in 3' rolls at Wal-Mart in the stationary/wrapping paper area.
Dear Nelly,
Welcome to our site, and thanks so much for the kind words. We are always working to expand our online library of lessons and cover different topics.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Donna,
Welcome to our site. I am sure that you will be able to achieve your goal and do the alterations for your family. We do have alterations videos, but I suggest you watch the sewing lessons as they show how different garments are constructed. These will help you learn more about alterations as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
wow
No, it isn't. It is just plain white.
Hi Kevcurtis,
I agree with you. I used 24" wide paper but it's two inches short for me! Is your paper see thru?
I don't know if this will help you in Canada, but just in case anybody else in the State has the same question:
I bought a 36 inch roll of white paper at Wal-Mart several years ago. I beleive it was in the Art and Crafts area. Anyway, it works perfectly for drawing the front and back on one sheet. I found this really helps in keeping everything lined up as you design the pattern. I draw a center line and then when I draw out the horizontal lines I draw them all the way across the paper. Saves time when going from the back to the front design.
I've seem the same roll at Hobby Lobby as well.
This helps 100%!! thanks!!
Hello,
i am trying to draw pattern for me (for men). Do I have to add 9 darts?
My dimensions are:
- Waist cir.: 85cm
- Lower hip: 94cm
94cm - 85cm = 9cm
May i add only 2 darts on back pattern? It wil be:
9cm : 2 = 4.5cm
Will this be correct?
Best regards,
Tomasz
Dear Karesa,
Welcome to our site and our community. I hope that you will be able to learn and grow in your sewing skills and share your projects with us.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Elna,
This topic would require a whole lesson to explain. However in the meantime you can take an old hoody apart and use it as your pattern. Second hand shops are a good source for finding garments at a low price and experiment with.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat