You need to measure the same way as I show in the pants drafting video lesson, if you intend to draft a pattern using that lesson.
In the lesson we have a leg length which is measured from the crotch point to the hemline and another one from the waistline to the hemline along the side seam. You need both these measurements to draft your pattern.
For the slit length and allowances for the center back seam on your full figure pattern you can use the same measurements and instructions from the skirt block pattern making (straight and Tapered) video lesson. Since that is the pattern we used in the skirt sewing video lesson. You can also use the instructions for the lining from the skirt sewing video lesson when marking the center back seam allowances and the abutted slit.
When adding the seam allowance at the center back you can use either instruction, they will both workout well.
If you are marking the top of the slit allowance at 30 cm which is 7 cm above the slit opening at 23 cm. Then you do not need to add the extra 4 or 4.5 cm at the top again. If the top of your slit is located 23 cm above the hemline then you can just add 4 cm above it for the allowance and draw the seam allowance line from there. As long as you add between 4 and 7 cm it will work.
As the shirt sewing video lesson is a much more complex lesson involving pattern styling and teaching of shirt collar drafting, cuff drafting and placket drafting, testing on muslin and so forth. It does usually take longer to write the script, shoot the videos and edit them. That is why it takes time to release the lesson.
Welcome to our site. To find out how to use a quilting frame I have found a few videos on youtube that might be of help to you.
The first video is an instructional video on how to load the layers in the frame and begin quilting. Click here to watch it.
The second video talks about how to assemble a quilting frame, but near the end talks about how to load the layers on the frame. Then the second video goes into more detail about usage.
The shirt sewing part D will come out before the end of the month. The DVD will be available once the entire video is finished and online. I will also add your suggestion for the jacket lesson to my list for future lessons.
Thanks so much for your kind words. Once you draft the pattern according to your own body measurements, the garment that you sew using that pattern will fit well. If you want to have the shoulder line end at the shoulder point, you do not need to extend it, therefore there is no need to shorten the sleeve cap at the top either.
To make it clear for me, could you please take a picture while wearing the garment from a few different angles and email it to us or post it here. Our email is support@esewingworkshop.com
To make sure the material fits around the bust area, you measure the same way as in the lesson to draft the block pattern. Next you style the top line of the pattern to get the look that you want. To get the ruching effect you need to cut the pattern horizontally into strips, down to about two thirds of the bodice side seam length, since you are ruching just the bust area. The strips can be about 1 cm wide. You can space them out between 2 to 2.5 cm. Then fill the gaps in with paper by placing a sheet of pattern paper under the cut area and tape the strips in place.
Make sure to cut the fabric on a bias.
You can have a zipper at the center back or the side seam.
On the interlining, the side bust darts should be transferred to the top of the bust points. To hold the top of the dress in place, you can use boning going down from above the bust point darts down to the waist line, going trough the waist darts. Use boning for the back waist darts and the side seams as well.
You can also use breast cups which help the garment stay in place and allow you to shape the ruching easily.
I suggest you first remeasure your side seam length, according to the instructions.
It does not matter if the bodice side seam line extends above the bust line. Extend the line above the bust line, then measure your bodice side seam length on it. Then continue the rest of the lesson and follow the instructions. By following the instructions in the lesson, everything will work out at the end.
Hi Teacher, i am on a halfway sewing my skirt , but some videos are not working , please check
21 - transferring the darts to the fabric using tailor's tacks
27 - pinning and basting the waistband to the shell for the first
36 - pinning and basting the waistband to the skirt
please help , i want to finish it .
Thanks Nehzat. Any other tips to make the reversible result looks good? Which side should I apply for the fusible interface? Perhaps it does not matter as it is going to be reversible. Tsing
You just need to deduct 1 cm form the back bodice length, that you used to draft your pattern. Then draft the back bodice block pattern again. The back and the front patterns will match with no problems.
It is more practical to cut each side of your reversible jacket separately. If you cut both sides (different fabrics) at the same time, the multiple layers will not allow you to lay them together well. This will affect the outcome and may not give you identical sides. Especially when working with slippery silk fabric.
Mark more notches around your patterns to make matching the fabric pieces easier. Then make sure when pinning the patterns to the fabric, that you allways pin in the same direction. Try to cut all your jacket pieces exactly like the patterns.
Thanks so much for your kind words and feedback on this lesson. We always try to show as much of the steps in detail as possible. It is great to see that our members appreciate the video lessons.
Thanks for the kind words. I am happy to see that the videos are appreciated.
For measuring and marking the crotch length and crotch line, I suggest that you use the same technique as I show in the video. It also makes it easier to use a calculator if all your measurements are in cm as you will not need to deal with fractions when adding, subtracting, multiplying or dividing the numbers.
Thanks for letting me know about your success. It is always a pleasure to hear from our members.
There are some amounts that we measure and mark on the pattern that do not have any calculations associated with them. I have arrived at these numbers trough my experience in sewing and sculpting education and the study of the human anatomy, which allowed me to improve on different pattern drafting techniques.
I suggest that you add more notch marks on your pattern pieces and transferring this notch marks to your fabric pieces. This way when you are sewing the seams you have more reference points for matching and lining up the pieces.
Something else you can try, is pinning the bias fabric pieces together before basting them by hand. This should help keep the layers in place as you work on them.
First pin the ends, then in the middle, then in between. Do this for all the seams you intend to baste. Baste using a double threaded needle.
You can draft the skirt and bodice block patterns as I show in the lessons, then not sew the darts. This will give you a looser fit. I suggest you first sew the dress out of muslin to do a test fit. This way if you choose to let out from the side seams you can see the result and make you adjustments to the patterns before cutting your fashion fabric.
If you divide 4 cm by nine, you will get the intake of about 4 mm for each dart. This is okay, the dart intakes can be as small as 2 mm. Sewing the darts will create a line that gives the illusion of a narrower waistline. So I highly recommend you do not eliminate the darts.
Thanks very much, Nelly. I think Office Depot is called Staples here? I did try them but they didn't have it. Someone told me they have it online, though! I bought some flipchart paper that is okay but seems to tear easily. Kate
Dear lynnsew,
You need to measure the same way as I show in the pants drafting video lesson, if you intend to draft a pattern using that lesson.
In the lesson we have a leg length which is measured from the crotch point to the hemline and another one from the waistline to the hemline along the side seam. You need both these measurements to draft your pattern.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Naan,
Welcome to our site. I hope that you will be able to pursue your dream and find the video helpful.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
For the slit length and allowances for the center back seam on your full figure pattern you can use the same measurements and instructions from the skirt block pattern making (straight and Tapered) video lesson. Since that is the pattern we used in the skirt sewing video lesson. You can also use the instructions for the lining from the skirt sewing video lesson when marking the center back seam allowances and the abutted slit.
When adding the seam allowance at the center back you can use either instruction, they will both workout well.
If you are marking the top of the slit allowance at 30 cm which is 7 cm above the slit opening at 23 cm. Then you do not need to add the extra 4 or 4.5 cm at the top again. If the top of your slit is located 23 cm above the hemline then you can just add 4 cm above it for the allowance and draw the seam allowance line from there. As long as you add between 4 and 7 cm it will work.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear enasokab.
As the shirt sewing video lesson is a much more complex lesson involving pattern styling and teaching of shirt collar drafting, cuff drafting and placket drafting, testing on muslin and so forth. It does usually take longer to write the script, shoot the videos and edit them. That is why it takes time to release the lesson.
Hope this explains it.
Nehzat
Dear praiser12,
This is a good topic for a future video lesson, thanks for your suggestion.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sassy1947,
Welcome to our site. To find out how to use a quilting frame I have found a few videos on youtube that might be of help to you.
The first video is an instructional video on how to load the layers in the frame and begin quilting. Click here to watch it.
The second video talks about how to assemble a quilting frame, but near the end talks about how to load the layers on the frame. Then the second video goes into more detail about usage.
Part 1
Part 2
Hope this helps you out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sewsewmom,
The shirt sewing part D will come out before the end of the month. The DVD will be available once the entire video is finished and online. I will also add your suggestion for the jacket lesson to my list for future lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Midori,
Thanks so much for your kind words. Once you draft the pattern according to your own body measurements, the garment that you sew using that pattern will fit well. If you want to have the shoulder line end at the shoulder point, you do not need to extend it, therefore there is no need to shorten the sleeve cap at the top either.
To make it clear for me, could you please take a picture while wearing the garment from a few different angles and email it to us or post it here. Our email is support@esewingworkshop.com
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Sharon,
To make sure the material fits around the bust area, you measure the same way as in the lesson to draft the block pattern. Next you style the top line of the pattern to get the look that you want. To get the ruching effect you need to cut the pattern horizontally into strips, down to about two thirds of the bodice side seam length, since you are ruching just the bust area. The strips can be about 1 cm wide. You can space them out between 2 to 2.5 cm. Then fill the gaps in with paper by placing a sheet of pattern paper under the cut area and tape the strips in place.
Make sure to cut the fabric on a bias.
You can have a zipper at the center back or the side seam.
On the interlining, the side bust darts should be transferred to the top of the bust points. To hold the top of the dress in place, you can use boning going down from above the bust point darts down to the waist line, going trough the waist darts. Use boning for the back waist darts and the side seams as well.
You can also use breast cups which help the garment stay in place and allow you to shape the ruching easily.
Hope this helps. Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear melisande,
I suggest you first remeasure your side seam length, according to the instructions.
It does not matter if the bodice side seam line extends above the bust line. Extend the line above the bust line, then measure your bodice side seam length on it. Then continue the rest of the lesson and follow the instructions. By following the instructions in the lesson, everything will work out at the end.
happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear red173015,
I have checked the videos and they are working on our end. However I will make sure to pass your message to our technical department.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Hi Teacher, i am on a halfway sewing my skirt , but some videos are not working , please check
21 - transferring the darts to the fabric using tailor's tacks
27 - pinning and basting the waistband to the shell for the first
36 - pinning and basting the waistband to the skirt
please help , i want to finish it .
Thanks Nehzat. Any other tips to make the reversible result looks good? Which side should I apply for the fusible interface? Perhaps it does not matter as it is going to be reversible. Tsing
Dear Pat,
You just need to deduct 1 cm form the back bodice length, that you used to draft your pattern. Then draft the back bodice block pattern again. The back and the front patterns will match with no problems.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear tsingtb,
It is more practical to cut each side of your reversible jacket separately. If you cut both sides (different fabrics) at the same time, the multiple layers will not allow you to lay them together well. This will affect the outcome and may not give you identical sides. Especially when working with slippery silk fabric.
Mark more notches around your patterns to make matching the fabric pieces easier. Then make sure when pinning the patterns to the fabric, that you allways pin in the same direction. Try to cut all your jacket pieces exactly like the patterns.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Bonbon,
You can see how to use the bodice block pattern we drafted in these video lessons:
Panel Dress Sewing
Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt
Shirt Sewing
Watching these lessons will give you an idea on how to stylize your bodice block pattern to sew a top.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Jamuna,
Welcome to our site. I hope that you will be able to learn sewing and do alterations real soon.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear KT1408,
Thanks so much for your kind words and feedback on this lesson. We always try to show as much of the steps in detail as possible. It is great to see that our members appreciate the video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear rbezile,
Thanks for the kind words. I am happy to see that the videos are appreciated.
For measuring and marking the crotch length and crotch line, I suggest that you use the same technique as I show in the video. It also makes it easier to use a calculator if all your measurements are in cm as you will not need to deal with fractions when adding, subtracting, multiplying or dividing the numbers.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Pat,
Thanks for letting me know about your success. It is always a pleasure to hear from our members.
There are some amounts that we measure and mark on the pattern that do not have any calculations associated with them. I have arrived at these numbers trough my experience in sewing and sculpting education and the study of the human anatomy, which allowed me to improve on different pattern drafting techniques.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Monica,
I suggest that you add more notch marks on your pattern pieces and transferring this notch marks to your fabric pieces. This way when you are sewing the seams you have more reference points for matching and lining up the pieces.
Something else you can try, is pinning the bias fabric pieces together before basting them by hand. This should help keep the layers in place as you work on them.
First pin the ends, then in the middle, then in between. Do this for all the seams you intend to baste. Baste using a double threaded needle.
Let me know if this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear joslu54,
You can draft the skirt and bodice block patterns as I show in the lessons, then not sew the darts. This will give you a looser fit. I suggest you first sew the dress out of muslin to do a test fit. This way if you choose to let out from the side seams you can see the result and make you adjustments to the patterns before cutting your fashion fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Millie,
If you divide 4 cm by nine, you will get the intake of about 4 mm for each dart. This is okay, the dart intakes can be as small as 2 mm. Sewing the darts will create a line that gives the illusion of a narrower waistline. So I highly recommend you do not eliminate the darts.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thanks very much, Nelly. I think Office Depot is called Staples here? I did try them but they didn't have it. Someone told me they have it online, though! I bought some flipchart paper that is okay but seems to tear easily. Kate
Thanks very much, kevcurtis. Will check it out.