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Adapting basic bodice
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Sat, 10/20/2018 - 11:08
Hi, thanks for the detailed basic bodice tutorial. However I would like to first sew a muslin with my basic bodice to ensure fit . But according to your video both front and back bodice were cut into two. Is this necessary if I wanted to do the above , then adapt my bodice to my desired style .
in addition , my back shoulder to waist is shorter than front shoulder to waist . If both are not same, will this skew my bodice after joining front and back ?
Many thanks
Tue, 10/23/2018 - 14:56
#1
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Re: Sewing Muslin Using Bodice Block Patterns
Dear Hope1234,
Thanks for the compliments. First you need to add seam allowances all around your front and back bodice block patterns. Do the same for the center front of the bodice block pattern as well.
Place the patterns on folded fabric and cut. Mark the center front seam line on both sides of the muslin pieces.
Sew the center back seam, all the darts, side seams, shoulder seams but not the center front seam. This way you will be able to wear the muslin and over lap the front opening, while matching the center front seam lines yourself. Later you can style your pattern according to your preference.
Since you need to shorten the side bust darts and waist darts ending at the bust points, you need to watch Chapter 20 of the bodice block pattern making video lesson. Make sure to do this step before cutting the muslin.
For your second question. The front bodice length is longer for most women. However those with smaller busts, hunched backs or protruding shoulder blades will have a longer back bodice length compared to the front bodice length. Some people's front and back bodice length could be the same.
Since you are drafting your pattern according to your own measurements, at the end the side seams of the front and back bodice pieces will match.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Tue, 11/06/2018 - 19:55
#2
Bodice block
Dear Nehzat,
Sorry but I’m still having problems with sway back on my muslin. I drew my front and back on same paper since some of the horizontal levels on both are on same level. However as my waist level at the front is lower than my waist level at the back, my armhole to waist on F&B are not matching . Therefore my side seam does not meet.
Please I would be very grateful for a prompt response and any advice to eliminate this issue.
I also believe that having high hips is contributing to my sway back issues. A friend mentioned that accurate dart distribution should resolve it , but I’m not sure.
Many thanks in advance.
Please I would be very grateful for a prompt response and any advice to eliminate this issue.
I also believe that having high hips is contributing to my sway back issues. A friend mentioned that accurate dart distribution should resolve it , but I’m not sure.
Many thanks in advance.
Thu, 11/08/2018 - 11:13
#3
Re: Bodice Block
Dear hope123,
When you are drafting the front and back patterns, I suggest that your draft the back pattern separately from the front pattern. This way you don't need to worry about the horizontal lines not being level, since we are drafting the pattern according to the body measurements we have taken.
Because the front and back lengths are different for most people, this is why we measure the front bodice length and the back bodice length separately. Usually the front bodice length is longer than the back bodice length, since when we measure, we have to pass the measuring tape from the shoulder close to the neck, going down, passing the bust point and then to the bottom of the ribbon we have tied around the waistline.
Since we need to pass the measuring tape from the bust point which protrudes from the body, this usually makes that the front bodice length longer than the back. If we don't do this, it means we are ignoring the bust protrusion, which will cause the garment to be short on the front.
On the back we don't have the bust protrusion, that is why the back bodice length is usually shorter than the front bodice length. Unless the person has a hunched back, or excessive protrusion of the shoulder blades or has a flatter chest.
The side bust dart intake absorbs some of the excess length from the front bodice length on the side seam. When we are marking the side bodice length on the front patterns, the side bust dart should be closed. On the front pattern we measure up from Q along the side seam and mark for the armhole.
On the back bodice pattern, we measure up from S along the side seam and mark the armhole as well. This is why the length of the side seams of the front and back bodice patterns will be the same.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thu, 11/08/2018 - 13:57
#4
Dear Nehzat,
Many thanks .
Dear Nehzat,
Many thanks . That is now clearer .
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