Adding ease to Armhole and sleeve

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Thu, 01/14/2016 - 14:13
ashwika3110
User offline. Last seen 8 years 3 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 01/04/2016
Posts: 1

Dear Madam

I am a new member to esewing, practiced Bodice block pattern and Sleeve block pattern.

Now learning Shirt sewing, have some doubts please help me to clear it:



1. In shirt sewing, while styling and adding ease to Armhole, on side seam 1.5 cm down, a new point marked and while adding ease to side seams, new armhole line extended 1.5 cm. How these two affected in while adding ease to sleeve block pattern?



2. In shirt sewing, explained as sleeve made using the same technique of Sleeve Block pattern making, where Bicep circumference added 1.5 cm of ease, how this will affect in Bodice block pattern making?



3. In Bodice block pattern when measuring side seam length, used 2.5 cm length paper to place under the armpit, then, is this already a semi fitted pattern?

In shirt sewing, when we used the same technique to draw the bodice pattern, why are we again have to come down 1.5 cm on side seam to Armhole?





Confused, please explain when we make changes in bodice block armholes, what are the changes has to be made to sleeve block, if possible with example in different situation?

Regards,
Rajini


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Tue, 01/19/2016 - 14:29
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 40 weeks 22 hours ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: Adding ease to Armhole and sleeve

Dear Rajini,

Welcome to our site.

Usually when we sew shirts we want them to be more comfortable. This way we have freedom of movement. Therefore, we need to lower the top of the side seam of the bodice pattern from the armhole. On the sleeve we add a bit of looseness or ease by widening the pattern at the bicep. The sleeve pattern we used to sew the shirt is semi fitted. The amount we added to the bicep, when we drafted the sleeve block pattern is separate from any changes that we make to the sleeve pattern when we sew the shirt. That is why we are styling that semi fitted sleeve block pattern for the shirt sewing lesson.

The armhole we create for the bodice block pattern is appropriate for a semi fitted sleeve. If we want to sew a garment with a fitted sleeve, we need an armhole with a smaller circumference. Therefore, the folded paper we place under the arm, should be less than 2.5 cm wide, when we measure for the side seam of the bodice block pattern and the sleeve block pattern. For example, it can be 1 cm wide, depending on the tightness of the sleeve we want. This is especially good for knitted fabrics that stretch. These kinds of fabric give a freedom of movement even when the sleeves are fitted.

You can see the result of these styling and adjustments on the bodice block and semi fitted sleeve block patterns, at the end of the shirt sewing video lesson when the shirt is worn.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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