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bodice back dart
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Thu, 07/31/2014 - 16:13
Hi Nehzat:
I was wondering why you draft a back bodice with a dart and one without. When do you use the one without a dart. Most patterns I buy have no dart unless it is a very fitted garment. How much difference does it make in the finished outfit?
Wed, 08/06/2014 - 13:12
#2
back dart
Thanks Nehzat:
That makes sense. I use shoulder pads since I have narrow shoulders and it evens out my shoulder to hipline look.
But the question then is how can you transfer it out so that its unseen besides making a yoke? I saw how you did that in the blouse sewing segment.
Cheryl
Tue, 08/12/2014 - 17:21
#3
Re: Back Shoulder Dart
Dear Cheryl,
For another example on how to transfer the back shoulder darts, you can watch chapter 7, from the Panel Dress Sewing Video lesson. There, I show how to transfer the back shoulder darts into princess seams, that start from the armholes and connect to the back waist darts.
You can also connect the back shoulder darts directly to the back waist darts. Then create a cut line and add seam allowances to either side.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Sun, 08/17/2014 - 01:31
#4
Thanks Nehzat:
that makes
Thanks Nehzat:
that makes sense.
Quick Links:
Dear Cheryl,
The reason we draft a pattern with a back shoulder dart, is to be able to follow the contour of the body better around the shoulder and shoulder blade. This creates room for the shoulder blade, just like the side bust dart makes room for the chest on the front pattern.
Usually garments that are more tailored have these darts. However the intakes of these darts can be transferred to different cut lines so that the darts are not visible.
In the past if there was no cut line to transfer the shoulder dart into, they just sewed the dart. But more recently, since most people don't like the look of this type of dart, it is omitted from ready made patterns.
The reason I tech both ways, is for you to have the option of sewing it, transfer it to a cut-line, or not have it at all.
By not drawing the back shoulder dart in the pattern, the finished garment will be gaping below the shoulder line along the back armholes. Unless shoulder pads are used.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat