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bust dart
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Mon, 06/06/2011 - 23:21
I have recently signed up to this programme and i need to know if the side dart at the front bodice pattern
is essential. also if after folding the sidedart to draw the side seam it can remain folded when sewing a shirt or another garment.
Thu, 08/30/2018 - 16:22
#2
Kids Bodice
I am drafting a bodice for a young girl with no bust. When drafting, can I just not draw the bust dart and just draw side seam length? I dont know if there is a reason to transfer dart anywhere if she has no cup size. Also I tried to make the side dart small, but then the armhole length was very very small so I thought better without side dart at all.
Are there children patterns for bodice on this website? I didnt see in the discussion forum.
Mon, 09/03/2018 - 16:53
#3
Re: Kid's Bodice Pattern
Dear Surabeily,
Yes, you can just skip the bust darts for kids.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Tue, 09/04/2018 - 06:42
#4
Ok thanks. Also, in the
Ok thanks. Also, in the basic bodice video at the end it says to alter darts for the garment. You lower the waist dart 2.5 cm. Then again in the adding ease video you say to lower dart 2.5cm? You do this 2x? Or adding ease video is the only one I need to do? Its a little confusing to see the altering dart video. Still not sure the purpose of the video.
What example is there when we dont alter the darts at all?
Wed, 09/12/2018 - 13:50
#5
Re: Shortening the waist and side bust dart on the bodice block
Dear Surabeily,
When we want to sew a garment with waist and side bust darts style. We dont want these two darts to end at the bust point. That is why to get a smooth surface on the bust points of the garmnet, we shorten these darts.
However if our garment has a style where we have seam lines, such as a seam line stating from the shoulder passing through the bust point and ending at the waistline or continuing down. Or a seam line starting from one armhole curving down passing through the bust point. Or a horizontal seam line passing from one side seam to the other going through the bust points. Or having some gathering or pleats around the neckline. In all these cases and many others, we need to have the exact location where the waist and side bust darts reach the bust point.
That is why when we draft our bodice block pattern, we need these darts to end at the bust point. Later we alter them as needed. Depending on the style of the garmeny we intend to sew.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Quick Links:
Dear Lornelle,
Yes the side bust dart is essential on the pattern, but you can transfer it to other darts, gathering or pleating and cut lines. This is depending on the style of the garment you want to sew
If we ignore the bust dart the front of the garment will be pulling up, and be tight around the bust area. The side bust dart creates room for the bust. In garments where the bust dart is ignored, the fit is not right.
For example If it is done as a dart in can be transferred to the front shoulder, to the front armhole, go towards the bust point from the waistline side seam, upper hipline side seams, lower hipline side seam or anywhere in above or below these areas. Its' intake can also be transferred to the waist dart going to the bust point. It can also be transferred to where the center front line and waistline cross.
It can be transformed to a gathering or pleating as well, some examples are at the front shoulder seam, if there is a cut line above or below the bust point it can be transferred there.
Here is an example where there is no side bust dart, so I transferred it to a gathering around the neckline: T-Shirt Remodelling
It can be transferred to a cut line as well, for example a cut line that starts at the shoulder, neckline or armhole that pass the bust point or a horizontal cut line that passes the bust point.
Here is an example, where we transferred the side bust dart to a cut line starting above the bust point going down to the top of the pleated skirt: 4.Styling the Front Dress Pattern
There are still more ways to transfer this dart, the above are just few examples.
You can only keep the side bust closed as you mentioned, if we transfer it to other darts, cut lines or gathering, otherwise you will not be able to lay the pattern flat on the fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat