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changing the size of block patterns when you loose or gain weight
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Mon, 07/25/2011 - 12:09
Hi Nehzat,
When you loose or gain, or simply adjust your block patterns, do you need to re-draw the whole pattern? Or can I adjust it like when I use a commercial pattern? I often use pin and tilt method of adjusting commercial patterns by Nancy Zieman of "Sewing with Nancy". It works well since my adjustments are not that big anyway.
It seems a little complicated since I'm not adjusting the already made garment pattern, but the original block pattern.
I appreciate your input.
Thank you
jnjewel
Wed, 07/27/2011 - 19:08
#2
Bust adjustment still not clear
Thank you for your reply.
I did cut the block pattern without the seam allowance because I thought I would use it on the commercial pattern to see the diffence and to adjust the pattern according to my precise block pattern.
When I made a muslin sample, I needed small adjustments, but now I'm sort of lost the points of reference. Was I suppose to keep the block pattern intact, and copy to use it? After I cut it out, I'm lost around the bust adjustment since threre is the side darts there.
I adjusted the side seam length and the shoulder seam without the problem, but lost with the bust adjustment. Do you see my confusion area?
Can I just add 1/4 of adjustments for the bust on the bust line, and draw a pararel line on the existing side seam? But if I do that, the waist and the arm hole measurement changes.
Can you explain this part of adjustment please?
Jnjewel
Sun, 08/07/2011 - 13:06
#3
Re: Side Seam Adjustment with a Bust Dart
Dear jnjewel
I believe I understand your confusion.
In order to make any of these adjustments to the side seam when we have a side bust dart, we need to tape closed the side bust dart. Then as you mentioned we add or deduct one quarter of our total adjustment out or in along the bust dart line.
If there are any adjustments needed along the waistline, we will mark a quarter of this along its deepest part. Remember that some of this waistline adjustment can also be accomplished by adjusting the intake of the waist darts.
Once this is done you can connect the marks to get your new side seam.
When you draw upward and reach the armhole line the armhole will be affected, this is normal. In this situation if your garment is sleeve less, make sure that the facing and the lining are adjusted accordingly. If your garment has sleeves then you need to adjust the sleeve pattern as well.
When adjusting the sleeve seams draw the lines down to the bottom or merge them somewhere in between. Or you can adjust the bottom of the sleeve pattern and connect the points.
When we want to compare a block pattern without seam allowances to a ready made pattern which includes seam allowances, we need to draw the seam lines on the ready made pattern first using the instructions it comes with.
I hope this is clear for you.
happy sewing,
Nehzat
Sun, 08/07/2011 - 22:01
#4
Thank you Nehzat
Yes, now it's clear.
I'm so excited that now I can create my own patterns, and I don't have to rely on the commercial patterns.
It's a great feeling!
Thank you, Nehzat.
Jnjewel
Quick Links:
Dear jnjewel,
You can adjust the block patterns just like you do a commercial pattern.
First adjust your block pattern for your new measurements, then style it according to the garment you want to sew. Make sure to add the seam allowances after you style the block pattern. Generally adjusting block patterns is much easier without seam allowances. You can erase the seam allowances around the area you need to adjust. If you cant do this, copy the block pattern without any seam allowances.
If you dont want to erase the seam allowances or make a new copy of the block pattern. You can use different coloured pencil to draw the new seam and seam allowance lines. This way the lines will not be mixed up.
Adjusting and styling the block pattern is not difficult.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat