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Creating a blouse pattern without Darts.
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Fri, 01/25/2013 - 16:47
I never use darts and don't like them. I like my clothing loose fitting
and simple. Can you tell me how to adapt your bodice and sleeve patterns for use without using any darts at all?
This would be fantastic!
Thank you,
Bynah
Tue, 07/09/2013 - 09:14
#2
have a sloper with only waist dart
Hello I wanted to make my sloper just with a waist dart only. Can you please tell me how I can have a sloper with only a waist dart? I know the bust dart excess needs to go some where. I'm so use to working with the waist darted slopers. Also I wanted to make slopers for my sons it would be very nice if you can help me.
Tue, 07/09/2013 - 11:26
#3
Re: Bodice Block Pattern (Sloper) Without Bust Darts
Dear Sakina,
You need to draft your bodice block pattern with the side bust dart first. Then you cut along one of the waist dart legs to the bust point.
Next you close the side bust dart and tape it in place. When you do this, you will see that the intake of the side bust dart is transferred to the waist dart which ends at the bust point.
After doing this, place paper under the waist dart and tape it in place. Now you can lower the waist dart point by up to 3 cm and draw new dart legs again. You do this so that the waist dart does not end at the bust point.
When drafting bodice block patterns for your sons, you don't need to draw the bust dart.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Wed, 07/10/2013 - 07:13
#4
My Bodice keep coming out too small
Hello again and thanks for the info. I draft the pattern just as you explain in the video and take the meas the same. After I am done for some reason it is too tight. I have the meas. checked and I check them again and they come out the same. I'm not understanding why it's coming out to small around the bust area with the bust and waist darts added and I did everything the same according to the steps on the video.
Fri, 07/12/2013 - 15:23
#5
Re: Bodice Coming Out Too Small
Dear Sakina,
You are very welcome. Here are a few things you can try to make sure the bust circumference measurement comes out properly.
Make sure the measuring tape is parallel to the floor when you measure the bust circumference. Place the end of the tape in the middle of your chest, where it is the shallowest, making sure you go around and pass over the bust points. You should not measure tightly as well.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Quick Links:
Dear Bynah,
You can draft the pattern as it is shown in the videos, with the darts. Then later when you are sewing the garment you can ignore the all the darts except the side bust dart. Unless you have a flat chest then you do not have to draw the side bust dart in the first place.
If you choose to not have a side bust dart regardless of your body shape, you can transfer it into the neckline and then gather the neckline and have piping around it.
You can also transfer the side bust dart into the shoulder and have a shoulder yoke, then gather the front fabric below the shoulder yoke.
You can also have a horizontal seam about the armpit line, then close the side bust dart and transfer it's intake towards the cut line. Then you can gather or use pleats to absorb the excess fabric when you sew the bottom piece to the top piece.
If we choose to eliminate the side bust dart altogether, without transferring it's intake somewhere else, the hemline of the garment will not fall evenly.
In the future I will teach these techniques.
Hope this helps you for now. Happy sewing,
Nehzat