Do not understand fabric grain

 Dear Masi,

The fabric grain line is formed by the way a fabric is woven. These woven threads run lengthwise and crosswise to each other. The lengthwise grain lines run parallel to the salvage and the crosswise threads perpendicular to it. 

Usually the length of garments runs along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric being used. Therefore the width of most garments runs along the crosswise grain line.

Generally fabrics stretch more along their cross grain, that's why we cut the length of garments along the length of fabrics to avoid stretching, when the garment is worn. Otherwise the garment would be uneven along its hemline. Stretching of the garment along its width when it is worn is ok, and will not affect the look of the garment.

Whether we buy ready made patterns or draft them ourselves, we need to have the lengthwise grain line marked on each piece of the pattern. This way we will know how to position the pattern correctly on the fabric. We need to make sure that the lengthwise grain line of the pattern is parallel to the salvage or the folded edge of the fabric which is also parallel to the salvage of the fabric.    

Some garments need to be cut on a bias because of their style. These garments have a lengthwise grain line on their patterns which is at a 45 degree angle to center front and center back lines of the pattern.

In all the pattern making lesson I teach how to draw the lengthwise grain line.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat