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Just tried out putting up a new hem using video. Don't know where I've gone wrong. I did the "take-up" at the knee (front & back), measured from the pin to the fold, doubled up the "tape" then took measurement from the bottom of the trousers, marked with pins at the crease line and transferred to other leg by making sure waistband stitching was in line. Using ruler, marked fold line (I was a bit worried at this stage as the line was a bit on the steep side! But, I re-checked at this stage and everything seem to be right. Pretty sure trousers were a STRAIGHT HEM and the legs were straight (not tapered, at this stage they turned into VERY SLANTED!) Did my tacking as close to the fold line as possible, also did second row of pins. Hubby did second fit, and they actually did look okay at this stage.
Measured from the fold line 5.5cm and pinned, then cut off excess. I think this is where I've gone wrong. There was a lot of bulk at both front and back creases, so I cut at the creases 2.5cm from the fold line.(I also cut away the stitching from the original hem, and took away the "extra" material -this wasn't shown in the video, and it took ages for me to realise this had to be done, I had acutally stated sewing my "overstiching!").
I tried to overstich by hand, but, it didn't go to well, so I did cheat a bit here and used the overlocker! (My "by hand" overstiching was not at an angle, and when I attempted tidy up loose threads, I actually ended up cutting my overstiching!)
There was still a lot of "bulk" to deal with when I folded and stiched just below the overlock stitches. I did finnish the trousers, but, I don't think a "good" job was done.
I think I may have gotten confused by the video, should I have done a second row of tacking 4cm from the first tacking line - starting and stopping 1cm from each side of the crease lines? And cutting at both crease lines (2.5cm) - but when does the excess get taken off?
I've still got another pair of trousers to do, thankfully, I don't have matching thread at the moment! What should I do differently - the trousers still to be done are the same type - straight hem, straight legs, but will end up being slanted as hubby does like the front to be just lying on his shoes, with the back being down to the start of the heel.
Dear knottycarla,
At the second fitting, since the pants looked good and you had done all the steps according to the video lesson, everything went okay. However if you feel that the angle of the slant was to steep for the hemline (the front was a lot higher than the back) then you can lower the front a bit. This will mean that the front of the pants will sit more on the shoes, which is okay.
To see the instructions on cutting the excess fabric you can watch chapter 11.
It is okay if you finish the raw edge using a serger.
I suggest that you watch the video lesson a couple of times to see how each step is done.
Let me know how you manage with the second pants.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat