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how to attch zipper on chifon/sheer fabric dress
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Tue, 07/09/2013 - 00:34
Hi,
Thank you for the tutorials. They are really helpful.
I wanted to know how to insert a invisible/lapped or centered zipper on a two layered dress. The lining of the dress is satin and the shell of the dress is chiffon. How do i insert a zipper at the back or at the side in such a way that it looks neat and the chiffon doesnt get caught in the zipper. Since chiffon is very light, It wont hold the weight of the zipper. Do i insert the zipper in the lining i.e satin? Then how do i attach the shell to it ? How do i go about it ?
In you dress tutorial you have attched the zipper on the shell, but in this case chiffon will pucker . Please advise.
Thank You,
Purnima
Wed, 07/10/2013 - 01:28
#2
Thank You for the
Thank You for the explanation..!!!
Quick Links:
Dear Purnina,
Usually on a sheer fabric with lining, to prevent the seam allowances from being visible, we need to use another layer of fabric as underlining. This underlining can be satin or regular lining. The underlining is cut exactly the same as the shell and is treated as one layer with the shell, when the garment is sewn. Then you line the garment to hide the seam allowances. When you use underlining, you will apply your zipper to the garment the same as if your fabric was not sheer.
If you decide to use French seams on your sheer fabric and lining, there is no need for underlining. So the garment will be constructed with two layers. However, around the zipper you should treat the lining as if it is underlining, to hide the seam allowances. In this case you will sew the French seam of the shell up to 2 cm below the zipper opening. The French seam of the lining should be sewn up to 3 cm below the zipper opening. The remaining 2 cm seam on the shell should be regular. However on the lining the remaining 3 cm of seam line should be left undone, for now.
To be able to bring the seam allowance of the sheer fabric to the wrong side, you need to clip notches on the seam allowances of the shell. The shell notches should be about 2 cm below the zipper opening. These notches should extend to about 2 mm from the seam lines. This way you can easily bring the seam allowances of the shell to the wrong side. Make sure you have a wide enough seam allowance for this section bellow the zipper. Now you can sew all the layers down from below the zipper opening to where you left the lining seam undone, with the shell seam allowances between the lining seam allowances.
Now you need to press open the seam allowances of the shell and lining below the zipper opening. To be able to do this, clip a notch on the lining seam allowance 3 cm below the zipper opening on the opposite side from where you laid the French seam of the lining. Clip to about 2 mm from the lining seam line.
When you do this your fabric will not pucker.
If you want to sew French seams make sure to practice on similar fabric to your garment.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat