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Jacket Alteration
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Tue, 09/13/2011 - 17:04
I am altering a jacket for a friend which is not only too wide in the shoulders, but also slightly large on the front bustline. I have pinched up the amount needed to be taken in, but I don't quite know how to handle the sleeve. I also am not sure what order these need to be done. The jacket has a side panel on the shell under the sleeve and needs to be taken up only on the shell about 2 cm or 1 cm on each side of the seam. Where do I take that amount out of the sleeve?
I hope this is clear. I am very impressed with the program expecially that It is so detailed. It really helps me to see someone's hands moving as they do something. I'm a kinetic learner and good at imitating the actions of others. For me it really is wonderful.
Thanks
Thu, 09/15/2011 - 10:09
#2
Jacket alterations
Thank you so much for answering me so quickly! I am so impressed with your site. I am I right in assuming the shoulder work must be done first?
I have never seen anything as wonderful as these videos. I have been sewing for years, even made suits, but I can see I have much to learn.
Again, thank you.
Thu, 09/15/2011 - 12:11
#3
Re: Jacket Alteration
Dear eliseeker,
Thanks for the kind words. Yes you would start on the shoulder seam first.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Quick Links:
Dear eliseeker,
First I recommend that you watch the Shoulder Shortening Video Lesson carefully to learn the steps.
If the sleeves are two piece sleeves you can take in from both seams.
If there is only one seam you take in all the amount from that seam.
First detach the sleeve. I mark three locations on each sleeve cap, and two marks on the armholes, one on the back and one on the front.
Since you have to detach the sleeve completely, you need to mark one point at the bottom of the armhole on the jacket and on in the same spot on the sleeve. Again use the same method I used to mark the other points. This way you will have reference points to be able to attach the sleeves back on.
When you do a fitting you may notice that the points do not line up. This is fine as long as both sleeves are aligned the same way in relation to the armholes.
First do all the markings needed.
Then separate the sleeves.
Then take in the amount you need on both seams of each panel under the arm using basting.
Then take in the amount you need from the sleeves using basting.
Do a fitting and pin one sleeve to the armhole.
Follow the steps in the above mentioned video lesson to connect both sleeves back on.
When we have panels under the arms, it is much better to take in from both sides of the panel. Doing this makes the difference in levels at the top of the seams much less, compared to taking in only on one seam. The same applies to two piece sleeves.
I hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat