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Dear Nehzat,
I have drafted my skirt pattern using the full body drafting where one dart is converted into two darts.
I would like to sew a panel dress with flared skirt as shown in your website.
Should I be using the skirt pattern that is not for the full body?
Thank you in advance.
Agnes
Dear Nehzat,
If I were to use the Full figure drafting, do I draft and leave out chapter 10 and 11(adjusting front and back pattern dart for the full figure), and then continue from chapter 12 to chapter 14(checking upper hip circumference, adjusting skirt length, smoothing out waistline) and then leave out Chpt 15 and 16 (adding seam/hem allowance and cutting out patterns) and continue from Chpt 17 to 18(draw foldline and lengthwise grain) after whichj I trace out the pattern and use that as the block pattern to join with the bodice block pattern?
Kindly advise and thanks in advance:)
Agnes
Dear Agnes,
If you intend to sew a dress with just two darts on the front and back, then you need to leave out chapters 10 and 11 as you said. But if you like you can have four darts in the front and four on the back as well. Usually when we are sewing a dress and need to add some ease, we can leave out the shorter darts to do this.
And like you said, you need to add the seam allowances and cut out the pattern after joining it to the bodice pattern, if your dress does not have a seam at the waistline.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Agnes,
If you have a full figure, you need to use the full figure pattern that you drafted for the skirt.
To style your skirt block pattern for the panel dress, you don't need to draw a second dart. Since the existing dart will be transferred into the seam line. When a seam line is formed, the dart point should lay smoothly against the body. If not, you can smooth it out when drafting the pattern or after the first fitting.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat