PANTS gone wrong

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Mon, 06/13/2011 - 07:43
kjwood
User offline. Last seen 13 years 42 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 06/02/2011
Posts: 1

I have drawn up my block pattern for pants using your video lessons and now sewn the pants.

When I tried them on I had the following difficulties -

1. pants creep up the backside

2. pants are too snug in the upper hip/waist

3. pants bubble at the hips/thighs (too rounded for me)

I think my problem is the following that most pants don't accomodate for: I have a wide waist but narrow in the thighs, and my back crotch seems to always need lengthening (I have a sway back). When dressmakers have allowed extra length in the crotch it make the pants too saggy around the thighs.

My front and back pattern only has one small dart each as I didn't need to take that much in, however my crotch lines were much longer than my measurements, so I followed your video lessons and reduced the length by folding some of the paper out like a dart as described etc. It was only minimal on both sides.

Any suggestions?

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Wed, 06/29/2011 - 11:33
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 1 year 7 weeks ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
RE: Pants Gone Wrong

Dear Kjwood,

Please read the below point to learn how to fix your pants pattern.

  1. This is caused by the excess crotch lenght at the back. The way you reduced the lenght by folding is correct. In addition you can reduce the croch length by wathcing the Pants Pattern Aleration video lessons's Decreasing the Crotch Length From the Inseam chapter here. When the buttocks is flat the crotch level line needs to be shortened from the crotch point, this will prevent sagging below the buttocks/upper thighs.
  2. Let out from side seams, center back seams and darts to compensate for the snug uppper hip/waist.
  3. You need to take in from side seams from the hips/thighs area.

Sorry about the delay in getting back to you - I've been very busy in the last few weeks. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Happy sewing!
Nehzat

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