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Pattern Cutting
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Mon, 10/10/2011 - 17:29
Dear Nehazt,
I want to thank you immensley for the detailed video on the bodice block pattern. I decided to cut out the finished block pattern and test it on my model. On doing so, I discovered that the front bodice was longer than the back bodice as a result of the necklines not matching up. I cannot figure out why. Please, can you help?
Kind regards
J
Thu, 10/13/2011 - 17:59
#2
Pattern Cutting
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you for your reply. As a result of the problem with the shoulder slope. I went ahead and made another block pattern incase I had done my calculations incorrectly. I have again encountered the same problem. The back shoulder slope is still longer than the front, even after closing the shoulder dart. I can't seem to figure out why without having to start all over again Please could you tell me where I might have gone wrong?
Thank you so much.
J.
Fri, 10/14/2011 - 15:31
#3
Bodice Drafting
Dear Nehzat,
I was able to solve my last problem, But now I've encounted another. I was watching the video. I think 19, where both the back and front shoulder slopes are aligned and a new armhole is formed. Well, My measurements between X & T are exactly the same as given in the video, 34cm and when divided my 2 is 17. Now when drawing the new shoulder slope, it does not fall on the back pattern rather on the front. I continued to follow the video anyway thinking that perhaps I can transfer the point to the back pattern, but I can't as the point does not fall on the back pattern at all. Please where have I gone wrong?
I hope this makes sense.
Kind regards
J
Sun, 10/16/2011 - 15:21
#4
Re: Drafting Bodice Block Pattern
Dear J,
When your new shoulder slope falls on the front pattern instead, you remove the tapes holding the patterns together and open the back shoulder line fold and flatten it. Then you need to fold along the front shoulder slope and place it on the back shoulder slope starting at the neckline.
Tape the patterns together, center the shoulder slopes as before and copy the location to the back pattern with a pin as shown in chapter 19 of the Bodice block pattern making video lesson.
Since the new shoulder slope crosses the front armhole, you need to mark the location on the back pattern and draw a new shoulder slope on the back instead of the front patter. So when this occurs you need to draw a new armhole on the back pattern from the pin mark.
I hope this clears things up,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Mon, 10/17/2011 - 17:26
#5
Pattern Drafting
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you for your explanation. I did watch the video again and you explained it there as you've just done now.
Again, thank you so much.
Kind regards
J
Quick Links:
Dear J,
Thanks for the kind words. In standard figures the front bodice length is longer than the back bodice length because of the busts. The necklines are always the same width on the front and back patterns. If you calculated the measurements correctly or if you measured and marked correctly there should not be any problems for the necklines.
When we want to center the shoulder lines we need to match the front and back shoulder lines from the neckline. Because the back shoulder line has a bigger slope than the front it is always drawn longer than the front shoulder slope. In this chapter: 19. Centering the Shoulder Slopes and Aligning the Armholes from the Bodice block pattern video lesson you can learn how to make both the front and back shoulder slopes the same length.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat