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I have a very flat bum and no waist. All the pants I buy always have way too much fabric in the back at the top of my legs, because the bum just does not fill out the fabric. How can I alter the pants to fit? Taking in the side seams does not work, nor does taking in the inseam and crotch, although that does helo a little. Thanks,
I find that it is best to add darts to the back as well as taking in some from the side seams.
This will distribute the intake much better. Adding two darts to the back will give a nice shape to the bum. If you are very flat, you might need to add longer darts than usual, to take in more fabric from lower down.
Dear annelynn
Usually when the buttocks are small and don't fill out the space on the back of pants, in addition to what you have done you should also pull up on the excess from the top.
When fitting, pinch the excess fabric at the back bellow the waistband and pin it in different places. Start at the center back and gradually pin towards the side seams on both sides. Sometimes the excess fabric will continue past the side seams towards the front, depending on the body shape.
Now you use needle and thread to mark the pinched fabric along the pins. This way you can measure the amount of fabric that needs to be removed along the waistline.
Next you undo the waistband stitches along the thread marks, extending the opening a few cm past the last thread marks on each side.
Now you need to baste the waistband again, placing the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
Usually when using this technique, we need to increase the intake and the lenght of the darts as well.
Make sure to do a fitting again, before sewing by machine and trimming the excess fabric.
This should make your pants fit perfectly.
Thanks,
Nehzat