sleeveless dress lining

Dear 1Glenda

Thanks so much for the kind words, they are greatly appreciated. Below I have explained how to sew the lining with facing to the garment without the benefit of a video. But I am going to make a video lesson showing this process soon.

First cut the facing pieces larger than the pattern asks, then cut and fuse the interfacing to it. Then place the pattern on top and trim the excess fabric.

Next sew the shoulder seams of the neckline facing. Then the side seams and shoulder seams of the armhole facing pieces. Now press open all the seams of the facing pieces.

Press open the seams of the shell and lining.

You need to sew the facing pieces to the lining. First pin the inner edge of the neckline facing to the lining neckline, make sure you match the shoulder seams of the lining and the facing together and the center front and center back of the neckline as well. Pin in between.  

Next you need to pin and sew the armhole facings to the lining along the inner edge.

Trim away the excess seam allowance of the lining (fabric) around the neckline and armholes. Make sure to leave behind about 6 mm.

Then you clip notches along the armholes and neckline of the lining (fabric). Your notches should be about 1.5 cm apart and 2 mm from the seam line.

Now you need to press the seam allowance of the neckline and armholes where you joined the facing to the lining, towards the lining. The notches you cut will let the lining and facing lay flat.

Next you pin and sew the shell to the facing around the neckline. Make sure to pin them with the right sides together. Match the shoulder seams and the center front and center back of the neckline.

To sew the armholes you turn the garment right side out and place it on the table. Working on one armhole, fold the armhole in, along the top of the side seam on the shell and facing by about 1.5 cm. Then hold the fold in place with your left hand and pass your right hand between the lining and the shell and hold the folded shell and facing with your right hand. Release the fabric from your left hand.

Bring the side seam out between the lining and the shell with your right hand, holding the layers steady.

Match the side seams of the facing and the shell and pin them together 90 degrees to the armhole from the inside. Continue working from the inside and pin the shoulder seam of the shell and facing. Match the edges of the facing and the shell all around the armhole and pin.

Now sew by machine. It is always easier to sew around the armhole by machine when the shoulders are wider. To sew the armhole seam start sewing before the shoulder seam and then sew all the way around and finish at the same spot.

Trim away the excess seam allowance, clip notches just like the neckline. Repeat for the other armhole.

Hope this helps.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat