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i have a woman's trench coat, with ordinary sleeves, it should have been raglan, has tightness above the bustline. what should i do?the sleeves are too long, should i adjust the top of the shoulder?
it's not a raglan sleeve and i don't know what you mean by. do i make armhole bigger and add some darts at the top of the sleeve near shoulder blade and side of sleeve?
Dear jeannemarie1,
Even if the sleeves are not raglan, you need to shorten them from the hem. You do not need any darts in the shoulder area, just add to the top of the side seams and at the top of the sleeve seams under the arm, by letting out some fabric from the seam allowances. If the seam allowances are not enough, you can add small trangle fabric pieces using the left over fabric from shortening the sleeves or any other matching fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jeannemarie1,
I believe you are saying that the sleeve is raglan and it is long. If so, you need to shorten it from the bottom of the sleeve, not from the top.
To fix the tightness above the bust-line you need to let out from the side seams, if you have enough seam allowance to do so. If you don't have enough seam allowance at the top of the side seams, you can join a piece of fabric there. You can use the pieces you cut from the bottom of the sleeve. These pieces will have a different grain line and may look a different shade, but since they are under the arms they are not so noticeable.
When you add to the top of the side seams you will also need to add to the top of the under arm sleeve seams. This way you will be able to sew back the sleeve to the armhole under the arm.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat