urgent help please

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Fri, 05/11/2012 - 11:35
lightprince4u
User offline. Last seen 3 years 49 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 02/21/2012
Posts: 12

hi, i have learnt a lot from your site and i aprreciate the awesome work you are doing here.

i have an attached picture here of a blouse i'm making, but my problem with it is that the shoulder keeps falling off. how do i avoid this from my pattern construction.

Secondly. i need an urgent help on how to go about colars.

for side bust dart, after dividing the bust circumference by 20 we add 1cm to 2.5cm to the result depending on the bust size. Is there any way to determine the actual amount of addition for different bust circumference/

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Tue, 05/15/2012 - 17:43
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 38 weeks 15 hours ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 1026
Re: How to keep the shoulder in place on open necklines

Dear lightprince4u

Thanks for the kind words. If the neckline is open both on the front and back the shoulders might not stay in place. When the fabric is stretchy the shoulders may stay in place, however on woven fabrics the shoulder tend slip off. You can still keep the same style, but sew lingerie guards to keep the shoulders in place. You can use a ribbon or a thread chain which you can make yourself. One end is sewn in place on the armhole side, the other end is fastened using small snaps. This will also serve to keep the bra straps hidden.

We are planning to release collar video lessons in the near future.

To figure out the amount you need to add for the bust dart, you can compare the protrusion of the bust on the dress form that i am using compared to yours. for this particular one I added 1.5 cm. Here is a rough guide to help you based on cup sizes, not bust circumference. Because someone may have a large bust circumference but a flatter chest. In this situation the bust circumference does not reflect the protrusion of the breasts.

 

For A cups we add about 0 cm to 0.5 cm

For B cups we add about 0.5 cm to 1 cm

For C cups we add about 1 cm to 2 cm

For D cups we add about 2 cm to 2.5 cm

Happy sewing, 

Nehzat

 

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