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Hi Nehzat.
I am using a commercial pattern for a circular skirt. It does not have a waistband. How to I measure up to draft a waistband. Do I measure around the pattern or do I measure around my waistline (in my case 3cm down from waistline). As the skirt at the waistline is circular, does the waistband need to be circular also.
Thanks
Dear PixieAnne,
The waistband should be cut straight. You need to cut a long rectangle for it. You can use the instructions in the Skirt Sewing from a Pattern Video Lesson, chapters:
9. Drafting the Waistband Pattern
17. Cutting the Interfacing for the Waistband and Slit
18. Fusing the Interfacing to the Waistband and Slit
20. Forming the Fold Line on the Waistband
27. Pinning and Basting the Waistband to the Shell for the First Fitting
36. Pinning and Basting the Waistband to the Skirt
38. Sewing the Waistband to the Skirt
In your case add another 15 to 20 cm to the measurement of your waist circumference. This will be for the overlap, seam allowance and to allow you to position the waistband lower than your waistline.
Since the skirt is circular cut, you may only need to go below the waistline of the skirt by 1 cm. Because of the circular shape, moving 1 cm below the waistline will add more to the waistline circumference than it seems. Thats why you may not need to measure down 3 cm all around the waistline of the skirt.
I suggest you pin and baste the waistband 1 cm below the waistline of the skirt and do the first fitting. If the waistband falls where you like it, continue and finish. If not, you can baste it a bit higher or lower to get it right. Once you do the fitting and figure out where you want the waistband to be positioned on your body, you can trim away the excess from the waistband as well.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat