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adding ease to block patterns and what amount should be added for each cup size at the side bust dart?

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6 replies [Last post]
Sun, 03/06/2011 - 18:38
madlil
User offline. Last seen 1 year 7 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 03/05/2011
Posts: 3

 I have enjoyed the block pattern drafting videos (I joined just to use them! ) There seems to be no ease added to the measurements.  I think even a sloper pattern needs a minimum amount of ease.  How should his be added?  Just add it to the circumference measurements before beginning the draft?  Usually there is 4 inches at the bust, one inch at the waist and 2 inches at the hip.  I would also really like a chart of the appropriate amount to use for the side bust dart such as A cup= x amount, B cup=x amount etc. Hope a sleeve draft is available soon! The videos are very well done and easy to follow.

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Fri, 03/11/2011 - 20:23
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 2 hours 20 min ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 558
Re: Adding ease

Dear madlil,

Thanks for your kind words. The best thing to do is to add the ease after drafting the block pattern.

Since a black pattern is used as a basis for different styles, we don't add any ease to it to begin with. Some styles are fitted in certain parts, others may be loose fitting. By drafting a block pattern without any ease we give ourselves the freedom to add the ease when needed.

To figure out the side bust dart we divide the bust circumference by 20, then we add a number to it depending on the cup size. This will give us the side bust dart intake. Below you can find a chart pointing out the amount you can add.

For A cups we add about 0 cm to 0.5 cm

For B cups we add about 0.5 cm to 1 cm

For C cups we add about 1 cm to 2 cm

For D cups we add about 2 cm to 2.5 cm

We should always do a fitting to make sure of the fit.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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Mon, 03/14/2011 - 13:34
#2
bdsouza
User offline. Last seen 1 year 4 weeks ago. Offline
Joined: 03/01/2011
Posts: 2
how to pattern, cut and insert sleaves to this bodies?

 please show how to make sleave pattern? what is the technique of inserting a sleave?

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Fri, 03/18/2011 - 10:42
#3
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 2 hours 20 min ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 558
Re: Sleeve Pattern

Dear bdsouza,

Yes, we will be releasing a sleeve pattern making video lesson soon.

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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Thu, 06/02/2011 - 18:03
#4
kim391
User offline. Last seen 24 weeks 4 days ago. Offline
Joined: 05/31/2011
Posts: 4
I just joined up and was

I just joined up and was looking through the videos on drafting.  I am not a great sewer but hope to be one day and I know that this site will certainly help me.

My question is that once the pattern bodice is drafted, what then?  Will there be a video showing how to make a top with ease and style from the drafted bodice pattern?  In others words, will there be a video to guide us (me!) on how to use this drafted bodice?

Thanks and I'm really excited about learning as much as I can.

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Mon, 06/06/2011 - 15:59
#5
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 2 hours 20 min ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 558
Re: I just joined

Dear Kim391,

 

Welcome to our site. Right now we have the dress sewing video lesson where I show how to style the bodice and skirt block patterns. In the future plan to make more video lessons showing how to style the bodice block pattern and sew tops with ease added as well.

 

Happy sewing,

Nehzat

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Mon, 06/06/2011 - 17:01
#6
kim391
User offline. Last seen 24 weeks 4 days ago. Offline
Joined: 05/31/2011
Posts: 4
Thank you Nehzat...I

Thank you Nehzat...I discovered the dress sewing video lesson after I posted the above.  I thank you for your response.  I am loving this site!  I am gaining confidence and I'm actually starting to believe that "I can do it!"

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