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pattern making
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Sat, 09/18/2010 - 11:01
Hi Nehzat,
I'm intrigued about the "whys" of things, and really would like to have fuller understanding of why we use certain numbers to transfer a 3D curved figure (the human body) to a flat piece of paper in making a pattern. For example in the bodice block video when we work on the neckline, why do we divide the neck circumference by 6? Will you please explain to me why it is the number 6 in particular that we use, and not 4 or some other number?
Thank you, so very much, I really appreciate being able to ask questions.
Carol
Sun, 09/19/2010 - 20:57
#2
neck circumference divided by 6
Thank you, Nehzat, I had to study this a while, but I think I understand it now. It is wonderful to get answers to questions. I really love this part of your site, it is so satisfying to be able to communicate with you and get a better understanding. Thank you! Thank you!
Carol
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Hi Carol,
The reason we divide the neck circumference by 6 is because of the human body proportions. In a standard human figure the back of the neck is about 1/3 of the neck circumference therefore when we draft the pattern we mark half of this distance for the back of the neckline and the same for the front. This is 1/6 plus 0.5 cm for the ease. We measure and mark this number from the center back line and the center front line along the shoulder line.
To draw the neckline on the back we measure 2 cm down from the shoulder line and mark on the center back line, then connect the mark on the shoulder to the mark on the center back line with a curved line.
To draw the neckline on the front pattern we measure 1/6 of the circumference plus 1 cm down from the shoulder line and mark on the center front line. When we connect the mark on the shoulder line to the mark on the center front line with a curved line, this line is about 2/6 of the total circumference. Since this is half of the front, we will end up with a total of 4/6 for the front. The same thing will apply to the back, 1/6 will become 2/6 since we are working on a pattern for half of the back.
2/6 for the back plus about 4/6 on the front is the total for the neck circumference. This is why we divide the total neck circumference by 6.
We use this calculations to transfer our neck circumference from a three dimensional form to a two dimensional paper and then back to a three dimensional garment by using geometry and math.
I hope this helps explain things.
Nehzat