Set-in sleeve

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Fri, 12/23/2011 - 19:25
nili2412
User offline. Last seen 2 weeks 6 days ago. Offline
Joined: 10/14/2011
Posts: 1

 Hello Nehzat,

I'm a beginner and I find your site very helpfull and actually great. 

I have two questions about sleeves. As I understand there are two techniques for sewing a sleeve: one is when you attach a sleeve when it's already in the shape of a tube (set-in sleeve), and the second is to stitch the sleeve as is, before stitching underarm seams. Which technique should I use for knitwear fabric? My pattern has a set-in sleeve, is it okay to use this tecnique when using a lycra fabric?  Or very streching fabric?

The second question is:  front and the back peaces of a pattern for T-short that I have include 1 cm seam allownce. The sleeve on the other hand includes 1.5 cm seam allowence, it is a set-in sleeve and does not include shoulder notch, only circle that is placed 1.5 cm from the  line on the shoulder where I presume shoulder notch must be. I don't understand how to pin this sleeve, to which mark I have  to match this circle? to shoulder seam? And why they are making different seam allowences on the same pattern? Do I miss something? As you see, I'm lost. Please help!

Nili

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Thu, 12/29/2011 - 15:48
#1
Nehzat
User offline. Last seen 2 hours 54 min ago. Offline
Instructor
Joined: 10/27/2007
Posts: 558
Dear Nili, Thanks for the

Dear Nili,

Thanks for the kind words.

I personally like to sew the seams for the sleeves and the side seams of the bodice before joining the sleeves to the bodice. I use this technique with all types of fabric.

For your second question, from what I understand the sleeve under arm seam should be 1 cm as well. The only part that has a 1.5 cm seam allowance is the armhole on the bodice and the top of the sleeve.

When the armhole and the top of the sleeve have a wider seam allowance it is easier to set in the sleeve. This also prevents the seam from stretching when we work on it.

Hope this helps,

Nehzat

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