I found the stitch I was looking for. It is the backstitch. I watched the video last week, but forgot about it. Then when I was searching the videos, I assumed that the backstitch was only for securing One's work when you start a stitch. NEVER did it cross my mind that it would be the stitch I was looking for.
I still would like to know if there are any tailor stitches that is not included in the hand-sewing series. If so, what are they and what are there purpose.
Since your flared skirt does not have a pleat on the center front and may not have a yoke as well. The construction will be more similar to the Skirt Sewing Video Lesson.
Watch the Skirt Sewing Video Lesson, but use the chapters from the A-Line Skirt Sewing Video Lesson on how to hem an A-Line Skirt.
Even if you do not intend to have a pleat on you A-Line skirt, I suggest you still watch the A-line Skirt Sewing Video Lesson as you will gain a lot of knowledge that you can use in other projects.
You can eliminate all waist darts when you are drafting the pattern. However when you are adding the seam allowances, leave more seam allowances along the top and side seams.
Do a test fit using muslin, in case you need to create a center back dart or waist darts on the back to give shape to the pants. Since you have enough seam allowances at the side seams you can let out enough fabric from the back pieces to compensate for the darts you may need.
To adjust the sleeve length, it is possible to shorten the sleeves from the top, but I don't recommend it. Since there will be lots of work involved and need lots of experience in sewing sleeves to armholes for suits.
I suggest shortening the sleeves from the bottom. In this case you will lose the vents, but you can have an imitation of them by pressing the seam allowances of the section you will resew the buttons on, to one side.
Hem the sleeves first, sew back the buttons before joining the lining.
I believe from you question, that you are asking about when we fold the back shoulder line and place it on the front shoulder line to bring the shoulder line in the middle of the back and front armholes and then we make the shoulder length of the back and front patterns the same.
When we measure the body to draft the bodice block pattern, we take some measurements for the back and some for the front pattern. Since the front and back of the body differ so will the patterns when we draft them.
To calculate the distance between J and J1, you divide the distance between J and U by 3 and then measure this amount from J and Mark it on the 45 degree line and name it J1.
Greetings Channell, I was wondering when did you write your testimony? If it has been sometime since you have written it, have you started your sewing business yet? If so, how is it going? If not, how much has your skill level improved since taking the lessons on this site?
When I am measuring on the armhole to mark the opening of the sleeve cap, I mention that we want to measure about 3 cm down from the fuchsia thread. However when I am measuring and pin marking from the fuchsia thread, it looks like I am doing so from the peach colored thread. Then later on when I am transferring the measurements from the front and back, to the other armhole. I measure from the peach colored thread. This makes the measurement 2.6 cm for the front and 4 cm for the back of the armhole.
These measurements could vary in every case from mine. However make sure to copy the exact amounts from the horizontal thread marks to the other armhole.
It seems to me that you might have measured your shoulder width more than it actually is. That is why you need to do the shoulder area on the front and back pattern again, to get the correct fit.
If you used a muslin or actual fabric to sew the garment, you can open up the shoulder seams and adjust the armhole and shoulder seam according to the new pattern, by placing the pattern on top.
You need to cut four pieces for the two ears of the elephant. Then place the two right sides together for each of the ears. Pin around them, with the pins facing towards the center of each ear. The pins should be at right angles to the raw edges of the fabric. If there is any notch marks align them for the seam lines.
Now you can baste around each ear by hand, leaving the section that attaches to the elephant’s head open. Next place the ears beside each other and place the batting on each one. Pin the batting in place the same way.
If you like you can baste the batting in place , leaving the section connecting tot he head open. Now you can sew the seam by machine. You can now turn the ears right side out, making sure the batting is positioned between the ear pieces.
To adjust a ready made shorts pattern with front pleats to fit a larger tummy, you can let out from the intake of each pleat, and also increase the crotch length at the top from the center front, merging it gradually towards the side seams. This will help accommodate a larger tummy.
If you want the intake of the pleats to remain the same, you can draw a line between the front pleats from the waist to the hemline of the shorts. Now cut this line and add a strip of paper in between, keeping the two sides parallel to each other and tape the strip of paper in place.
To know how much you need to add to the pattern, you should measure your waist and upper hip circumferences first. Then measure your pattern to see how much you need to add. Remember that you should add half of the amount needed to the front pattern, as you will lay your pattern on folded fabric.
Here you will also need to increase the crotch length at the top from the center front, merging it gradually towards the side seams.
It is better to test the fit of your shorts using muslin or a similar inexpensive fabric.
You can use two pieces of material that match the colour of the pants best. One piece for each leg. Make sure the pieces are a bit larger than the worn off areas.
Follow the crotch seam line of the pants for the seam between the two pieces and leave enough fabric for the seam allowances. First sew the crotch seam on the pieces, then place it on the inside of the pants and pin it in place. Pinning all around the piece from the right side.
Next you can hand sew the pieces to pants from the right side, with small stitches using a matching thread colour.
Another way you can repair the pants is to cut off the worn off area, in a symmetrical way from both pant legs. Then use this as a pattern for two new fabric pieces. These new pieces can be a different complimentary colour if you like.
To do this fold the pants along the crotch seam line pinning the two legs together in the worn off area. Then draw a line with a tailor’s chalk, marking the area to be cut off. The cut off line can be bigger than the area that is worn off and give the pants a new style.
Make sure to add a seam allowance for the crotch seam line. For the other seam lines, where you join the pieces to the pants, you need to add twice the seam allowances, since the pants does not have any seam allowance around the cut off area.
Here is a picture that shows how this kind of repair could look using different fabric colours.
I am pleased to see that your pants fit beautifully.
There are some lining materials that have stretch in them.
You need to use the front and back pants patterns. Make sure to measure from the bottom (hemline) for the amount you would like the lining to be shorter by.
If your pants have a fly zipper, for the lining at the center front seam line where the zipper will be applied to the shell, you only need to add 2 cm of seam allowance for both sides of the front pieces.
When you are joining the lining to the shell, for the left side you need to fold in along the seam line by 2 cm and join it to the zipper tape from the top down to the bottom zipper stop.
But for the Right Side (where the shell is overlapping the left side), you need to fold in the lining 4 cm from the top, down to the bottom zipper stop and join the lining to the zipper tape. We do this since we don’t want to cover the zipper teeth or coil (when we open and close the zipper).
Make sure not to stitch the lining to the zipper tapes on either side below the bottom zipper stop.
Then we need to trim 2 cm from the 4 cm that we folded in, on the right side of the lining.
I usually join the lining to the zipper tape by hand using slip stitch.
I included a picture to show you what the finished pants with lining should look like on the inside, around the fly zipper.
Thanks for your interest. Yes I only teach how to draft patterns for the female body. However the sewing techniques are applicable to any kind of sewing project.
The repairs that are needed for these items, could be achieved by someone who has basic sewing knowledge. Our site provides this knowledge in many of the introductory lessons.
I am happy to see that our video lessons have been valuable to you.
Usually ready made pants have narrow seam allowances. If it is possible to let out from the side, center back and inseams, try doing so. Let out the seams by basting and do a fitting to make sure, before sewing the seams by machine.
Greetings!
I found the stitch I was looking for. It is the backstitch. I watched the video last week, but forgot about it. Then when I was searching the videos, I assumed that the backstitch was only for securing One's work when you start a stitch. NEVER did it cross my mind that it would be the stitch I was looking for.
I still would like to know if there are any tailor stitches that is not included in the hand-sewing series. If so, what are they and what are there purpose.
Dear mimi42,
Dear Yessica,
Dear sabrbagit,
Happy sewing,
Dear littlenini,
Dear Clark_rowena,
Dear skotturu,
Greetings Channell, I was wondering when did you write your testimony? If it has been sometime since you have written it, have you started your sewing business yet? If so, how is it going? If not, how much has your skill level improved since taking the lessons on this site?
Thanks in advance
Dear dorothexs,
Dear dorcasdoughty,
Dear Cece,
Dear scheri,
Dear aussienic76,
Thanks for kind words. I am happy to know that our video lessons are so appreciated.
Test
thank for your answer
Dear aussienic76,
Nehzat
Dear aussienic76,
Dear Maureen,