You did a beautiful job and I am very impressed with your clutch it looks awesome. You are a very good seamstress. It looks like or its looks better than what you get out of most stores.
To be able to bring a three dimensional human body and draft a pattern for it on a two dimensional piece of paper, we need to divide the measurements of different parts of the body by these set numbers.
One of the reasons for these divisions, is that we want to draft one half for the front and one half for the back pattern. So for example, the circumference of the bust, waist, upper hip and lower hip should be divided by 4, since when measuring, we measure the back and the front of each of these parts of the body at the same time.
But the front armpit distance and back armpit distance measurements should be divided by 2, since we measure them separately.
To create the shoulder slope in the bodice block pattern, we need to go down 4 cm on the back pattern and 3 cm on the front. This is so that we can place the shoulder seam line a bit towards the back, so that it is not so visible from the front.
In the Panel Dress Sewing Video, what we have around the necklines and armholes is facing. In the Dress with Pleated Skirt we also have facing around the top section.
In the pictures you have provided it appears that the dress has no facing but lining at the top.
However you can apply the same technique that I used to join the facing around the neckline and armholes in the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson, to this way of lining a dress as well. You can watch chapters 61 to 66.
Yes, first you need to measure from window frame to window frame. Whatever this distance, you need to add one fifth of it on either side, for stacking the curtains when you clear the window. So for a 1 meter window you will need 20 cm on either side. That would be 20 cm + 1 meter (100 cm) + 20 cm = 1.4 meters or 140 cm.
Once you have this measurement, you need to multiply it by 2.5 for the fullness. This way you have enough fabric for the pinch pleats and the width of the area you want to cover. 1.4 meter x 2.5 = 3.5 meters.
Then you need to calculate how many fabric widths you will need for each panel. Multiply this number by the cutting length of your curtain.
Yes the formulas stay the same when you divide or multiply, even if you are using inches. However if you use centimeters it will be easier to divide, multiply etc. using the calculator.
You can find how to manipulate the darts depending on the style of the garment, by watching the garment sewing lessons. Specifically the Panel Dress Sewing, Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt, and Shirt Sewing. In the initial parts of these lessons I teach how to style the bodice and skirt block patterns and manipulate the darts accordingly.
In the Skirt Sewing Lesson, chapters 3 and 4, I teach how to convert one waist dart into two, both for the front and back skirt block patterns. You can see how to do this in the Full Figure Skirt Block Pattern Drafting as well, chapters 10 and 11.
The bodice block pattern is what we need to use to style for a jacket or blazer pattern. However we do not have a jacket sewing lesson right now. We have this topic in our list for future video lessons.
I am not sure from your explanation where the zipper is applied to.
Usually this happens to zippers on skirts and pants. The solution is to move the button to make the circumference of the waistband a bit smaller, this will remove the tension on the zipper and keep it from opening.
Lay your skirt or pants on the table, close the zipper, then overlap the ends of the waistband. Next see where the button needs to be located. If the button has a stand, you need to place the button a little further in, as the stand will add a bit of slack to the total circumference of the waistband.
I believe that Kate's first gown has an outer layer of chiffon on the skirt and the bust area. A ruching technique has been used on the bust, the rest of the bodice and sleeves are lace.
The second gown is all chiffon. The sleeves and the bodice are sewing using ruching technique.
To show you how to sew these types of gown I will add these topics to my list for future video lessons.
Firstly, you can cut the patch any shape you want as long as you are evenly spaced from the edge of the tear. Yes the patch will be visible from the right side, however if we sew it finely it will be less noticeable.
When the rip is on both sides of the seam line, we should sew a patch to each side of the seam, making sure the patch is large enough for the seam allowances to sew the seam line back.
Great advice Nehzat. I like the first method. But I was wondering, when I fold the edges around the tear under making the hole larger, then the patch will definitely show from the right side. Right? Now if it shows, since there is a seam going down the middle of the pants, it will look like there is a gap in the seam where the patch is. Right? Do you think I should cut my patch in half, sew a seam down the middle and then align the patch seam with the pants seam when basting the patch under the hole? This will show a continuous seam. I hope I explained well.
Also, does it matter what shape I cut my patch? square, circle, ... Please tell me what you think.
Thank you for your welcome. I live in France, I'm a woman and I am subscribed to Threads. The images are well explained so I understand even if I do not read English. I'm retired and I sew all my clothes.
Bienvenue sur notre site. Si vous voulez, vous pouvez comunicate avec moi en utilisant Google translate, car je ne parle pas le français ou l'allemand. Vous pouvez écrire en français ou en allemand, Google translate ne convertit que ce que vous avez écrit en anglais, alors vous pouvez copier et coller dans le forum.
Welcome to our website. If you like you can comunicate with me using google translate, as I do not speak French or German. You can write in French or German, Google translate will convert what you wrote into English, then you can copy and paste it here in the forum.
It seams that the pants has only a tear, without any piece taken out of it. You need to patch it with a similar piece of fabric underneath first. You need to do this since there is a lot of tension on the crotch when sitting. You can remove a piece of fabric from the pants hem allowances or even at the top from the inner layers. If you remove a piece of fabric from the somewhere else you can find another fabric to sew back to that section of your pants afterwards.
First press the ripped section from the back, using the tip of the iron. Matching the edges as much as possible, without forcing the two sides together or pulling the fabric. You want the two sides to lay flat.
Cut the patch a little bigger than the hole, pin it in place from behind. When you patch the tear in the crotch, make sure the direction of the fabric is the same, so that there is no difference in the shade. Using a double threaded needle baste around the patch from the wrong side and remove the pins. You want the basting stitches to be small to keep the patch firmly in place.
There are two ways to mend the fabric.
1. You can fold the edges a bit under and baste. Then use a similar coloured thread and small invisible or blind Slip Stitches to sew the folded edges to the patch from the right side. Next you need to sew around the edge of the patch from the wrong side using Catch Stitches, catching just the pants fabric right beside the edge of the patch for the bottom of the catch stitches and for the top you should catch just the patch fabric. When catching the pants fabric, make sure to catch just one thread, so that it is not visible from the right side. You can catch more threads from the patch, but make sure to catch just the patch fabric itself.
2. Another way is to not fold the edge of the ripped section. This method requires more time and practice. Bring the edges together and use a thread you can pull out of the fabric in a hidden spot, such as the hem allowances, seam allowances or inner layers of the waistband, to darn over the ripped section. Since we do not have a darning video lesson yet, here is a link to a document that explain how to do darning with picture.
I believe that you need to lengthen the back crotch line. You can find an explanation of how to adjust the crotch line length in the following lesson. Pants Pattern Alteration for Different Body Shapes.
This was really a great tutorial. Please continue. I will definitely go for a years subscription. I want to lean a lot on standard cloth finishings and pattern making. I love this. Thank you so much.
Here is a link to an answer I gave previously to the question about why do we divide the neck circumference by 6.
To draw the basque waist, you need to first draft the bodice block pattern and the skirt block pattern. Join these together along the waistline.
As you see in the picture, the V shape below the waistline is using the top of the skirt block pattern. In the Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt Video Lesson, I show how to join the bodice and skirt blocks together in the 3rd chapter.
Next you draw the neckline style on your front and back bodice patterns, then draw the V shape line below the waistline. You want to try and replicate the same proportions that you see in the photo. Draw the line lightly with a pencil, adjust it if needed until you are satisfied.
Next you need to draw the cut line that goes up at an angle from the point of the V to the waistline, trough the bust point and up to the neckline. Then you need to transfer the waist dart intake into it and cut the line.
Once this is done, you can tape the side bust dart closed, this will automatically transfer the side bust dart intake into the cut line.
Now your front pattern is in two pieces. You need to add seam allowances to each side by taping a sheet of paper to each side of the cut line.
The 750 refers to the total chapters in the individual video lessons. Although currently we have close to 900 video lesson chapters. Here is a link to all of our video lessons and their chapter lists.
Thanks so much for the kind words. Below is an answer I gave to a similar question regarding adding ease, I will post it here for you.
The reason I did not include adding ease to the block pattern video lessons, is that we may choose a style that might not need any ease in certain areas of the garment. However I do show how to add the ease in the garment sewing lessons, where it is required.
I show how to add ease in the chapters where I am styling the block patterns for the below lessons.
Welcome to our site. The reason we need shoulder darts is to make room for the shoulder blades, the same way as we have side bust darts to make room for the breats. Anytime we have a protrusion we need to make room for it, using darts will help to do this and let the garment take the three dimensional shape of the body better.
If we don't like the look of certain darts, such as the shoulder dart, we can transfer their intakes into cut lines.
You did a beautiful job and I am very impressed with your clutch it looks awesome. You are a very good seamstress. It looks like or its looks better than what you get out of most stores.
Dear yvelyn,
For the waistband, we need an overlap for a button and buttonhole or closure with a hook. it does not matter what type of zipper you apply.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Adorable,
To be able to bring a three dimensional human body and draft a pattern for it on a two dimensional piece of paper, we need to divide the measurements of different parts of the body by these set numbers.
One of the reasons for these divisions, is that we want to draft one half for the front and one half for the back pattern. So for example, the circumference of the bust, waist, upper hip and lower hip should be divided by 4, since when measuring, we measure the back and the front of each of these parts of the body at the same time.
But the front armpit distance and back armpit distance measurements should be divided by 2, since we measure them separately.
To create the shoulder slope in the bodice block pattern, we need to go down 4 cm on the back pattern and 3 cm on the front. This is so that we can place the shoulder seam line a bit towards the back, so that it is not so visible from the front.
Hope this clarifies things,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear josephor,
In the Panel Dress Sewing Video, what we have around the necklines and armholes is facing. In the Dress with Pleated Skirt we also have facing around the top section.
In the pictures you have provided it appears that the dress has no facing but lining at the top.
However you can apply the same technique that I used to join the facing around the neckline and armholes in the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson, to this way of lining a dress as well. You can watch chapters 61 to 66.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Dhackney,
Yes, first you need to measure from window frame to window frame. Whatever this distance, you need to add one fifth of it on either side, for stacking the curtains when you clear the window. So for a 1 meter window you will need 20 cm on either side. That would be 20 cm + 1 meter (100 cm) + 20 cm = 1.4 meters or 140 cm.
Once you have this measurement, you need to multiply it by 2.5 for the fullness. This way you have enough fabric for the pinch pleats and the width of the area you want to cover. 1.4 meter x 2.5 = 3.5 meters.
Then you need to calculate how many fabric widths you will need for each panel. Multiply this number by the cutting length of your curtain.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear WakefieldB,
Yes the formulas stay the same when you divide or multiply, even if you are using inches. However if you use centimeters it will be easier to divide, multiply etc. using the calculator.
You can find how to manipulate the darts depending on the style of the garment, by watching the garment sewing lessons. Specifically the Panel Dress Sewing, Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt, and Shirt Sewing. In the initial parts of these lessons I teach how to style the bodice and skirt block patterns and manipulate the darts accordingly.
No there are no major differences for drafting a bodice for a full figure person, we do have a lesson that teaches How to Draft a Skirt Pattern for a Full Figure.
In the Skirt Sewing Lesson, chapters 3 and 4, I teach how to convert one waist dart into two, both for the front and back skirt block patterns. You can see how to do this in the Full Figure Skirt Block Pattern Drafting as well, chapters 10 and 11.
The bodice block pattern is what we need to use to style for a jacket or blazer pattern. However we do not have a jacket sewing lesson right now. We have this topic in our list for future video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Carol,
I have answered your question in the member introduction section. Here is a link to it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Carol,
I am not sure from your explanation where the zipper is applied to.
Usually this happens to zippers on skirts and pants. The solution is to move the button to make the circumference of the waistband a bit smaller, this will remove the tension on the zipper and keep it from opening.
Lay your skirt or pants on the table, close the zipper, then overlap the ends of the waistband. Next see where the button needs to be located. If the button has a stand, you need to place the button a little further in, as the stand will add a bit of slack to the total circumference of the waistband.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
thank u so much
Dear SaimaSaliha,
I believe that Kate's first gown has an outer layer of chiffon on the skirt and the bust area. A ruching technique has been used on the bust, the rest of the bodice and sleeves are lace.
The second gown is all chiffon. The sleeves and the bodice are sewing using ruching technique.
To show you how to sew these types of gown I will add these topics to my list for future video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Enas,
Firstly, you can cut the patch any shape you want as long as you are evenly spaced from the edge of the tear. Yes the patch will be visible from the right side, however if we sew it finely it will be less noticeable.
When the rip is on both sides of the seam line, we should sew a patch to each side of the seam, making sure the patch is large enough for the seam allowances to sew the seam line back.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Great advice Nehzat. I like the first method. But I was wondering, when I fold the edges around the tear under making the hole larger, then the patch will definitely show from the right side. Right? Now if it shows, since there is a seam going down the middle of the pants, it will look like there is a gap in the seam where the patch is. Right? Do you think I should cut my patch in half, sew a seam down the middle and then align the patch seam with the pants seam when basting the patch under the hole? This will show a continuous seam. I hope I explained well.
Also, does it matter what shape I cut my patch? square, circle, ... Please tell me what you think.
Thanks
In this gown are they use the same fabric on the top and skirt and also tell me about sleevs how they sew this sleevs with top part
Salam Madam,
In this gown are they use the same fabric on the top and skirt and also tell me about sleevs how they sew this sleevs with top part
I want to make this gown. Will you plz explane how i make this
Cher Ennovy,
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Dear Enas,
Dear Ry2z3b,
I believe that you need to lengthen the back crotch line. You can find an explanation of how to adjust the crotch line length in the following lesson. Pants Pattern Alteration for Different Body Shapes.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Ry2z3b,
Welcome to our site. I hope you will benefit from our video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
This was really a great tutorial. Please continue. I will definitely go for a years subscription. I want to lean a lot on standard cloth finishings and pattern making. I love this. Thank you so much.
Dear Saima,
Here is a link to an answer I gave previously to the question about why do we divide the neck circumference by 6.
To draw the basque waist, you need to first draft the bodice block pattern and the skirt block pattern. Join these together along the waistline.
As you see in the picture, the V shape below the waistline is using the top of the skirt block pattern. In the Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt Video Lesson, I show how to join the bodice and skirt blocks together in the 3rd chapter.
Next you draw the neckline style on your front and back bodice patterns, then draw the V shape line below the waistline. You want to try and replicate the same proportions that you see in the photo. Draw the line lightly with a pencil, adjust it if needed until you are satisfied.
Next you need to draw the cut line that goes up at an angle from the point of the V to the waistline, trough the bust point and up to the neckline. Then you need to transfer the waist dart intake into it and cut the line.
Once this is done, you can tape the side bust dart closed, this will automatically transfer the side bust dart intake into the cut line.
Now your front pattern is in two pieces. You need to add seam allowances to each side by taping a sheet of paper to each side of the cut line.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear PPAULIWOG,
The 750 refers to the total chapters in the individual video lessons. Although currently we have close to 900 video lesson chapters. Here is a link to all of our video lessons and their chapter lists.
Hope this explains it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear immi,
Thanks so much for the kind words. Below is an answer I gave to a similar question regarding adding ease, I will post it here for you.
The reason I did not include adding ease to the block pattern video lessons, is that we may choose a style that might not need any ease in certain areas of the garment. However I do show how to add the ease in the garment sewing lessons, where it is required.
I show how to add ease in the chapters where I am styling the block patterns for the below lessons.
You can check out the shirts sewing lesson, the dress with pleated skirt, and the dress with princess seams.
In the above lessons you can also follow the fitting and adjustment chapters to see how I do it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Curtis,
Welcome to our site. The reason we need shoulder darts is to make room for the shoulder blades, the same way as we have side bust darts to make room for the breats. Anytime we have a protrusion we need to make room for it, using darts will help to do this and let the garment take the three dimensional shape of the body better.
If we don't like the look of certain darts, such as the shoulder dart, we can transfer their intakes into cut lines.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing Nehzat