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Hello.
when i stiching the shirt there are many wrinkles on sleeves. plz tell me how can i remove it..bt shirt is stiching well.without sleeves.
thanks.
Dear Madam.
Thanks a lot for your helpful. tips. I want to know what variations are necessary in pant block pattern to make a plazo pant forming in 25"-30" bottom.
Dear SaimaSaliha,
Please let me know if the 25" to 30" you are referring to is the circumference of the hemline? Also how do you want the top of the pants to be from the lower hip up to the waistline? For example: fitted, gathered or pleated?
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Salam Madam,
i want the circumference of the hemline is 25"to 30". I want the fitted top of the pants to be frome the
lower hip up to the waistline but my sis wants gathered
plz explain i,m thankfull to u
May this year bethe bestest of your life, with lots of happyiness and success.
Wishing u a gloroous year
regards:saimasaliha
Dear Saima Saliha,
Thank you so much, I wish you the best in the coming year as well.
To get a palazzo pants to have a 25 to 30 inch circumference at the bottom hemline, you need to add the width of the hemlines on both the front and back patterns together and subtract it from the amount you intend to increase it by, in your case (25 to 30 inches).
What ever the difference, you need to divide by 4 and add on either side of the hemline for the back and front patterns (first you need to extend the hemline out on either side).
For the side seams: You draw a line up to the lower hip, if you want the top section to be fitted. Otherwise you can draw the line up to the waistline on both the front and back patterns.
You may need to smooth out the side seam line if there are any sharp points along the lower hip line for the fitted top section.
If you want the top to be gathered and more comfortable around the hip, you can add to the lower hip line as well, on the side seams. Then draw the line up to the enlarged lower hip from the hemline and continue up to the waistline.
For the inseam: You will draw a line from the extended hemline to the crotch, you can do this for the fitted or the gathered waistline.
For the inseam you can also, draw a curved line from the extended hemline to the crotch point, if you don't want too much fabric between your knees and the crotch point.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Salam,
Thank you so much for your help.
Salam.
. How can i make V shape dart in bodice block pattern.
Dear Saima,
You are welcome, I believe that you are asking about a V shaped neckline not a V shaped dart. Please let me know if this is what you mean.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Sorry madam I meant centre front V dart.
Dear SaimaSaliha,
Ok, now I know what you mean. You can start by marking the bottom of the V, where you want, on the center front line of the bodice block pattern.
Then draw a straight line from this mark to the point of the side bust dart.
Next you cut this line up to the bust point, to create a new V shaped dart.
Now you can close the side bust dart and tape it in place. You will do the same for the waist dart.
You can see that you have transferred your side bust and waist dart intakes into the new V shaped dart.
Since we don't want to have our dart end right at the bust point, we need to make it a bit shorter. This will give a softer look to the garment. Below is a link from the Bodice Block Pattern Making Video Lesson, where I show how to Altering Side & Waist Darts for Garments with Darts. You can apply the same technique I use to shorten the waist dart, to the new V shaped dart. To do this, you will need to tape a sheet of paper under the opening of the V shaped dart.
If the bottom point of the V dart is on the waistline, you will not have a seam below the V dart. However if the bottom point of the V dart is above the waistline, there will be a seam line along the center front line, down to the waistline.
Hope this helps.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Thank u so much for kind help. You are a grate teacher
Salam Nehzat,
Why do we need to divide neck circumference by 6?
I want to make a basque waist gown, but i don't know how i draw basque waist.
plz help
Dear Saima,
Here is a link to an answer I gave previously to the question about why do we divide the neck circumference by 6.
To draw the basque waist, you need to first draft the bodice block pattern and the skirt block pattern. Join these together along the waistline.
As you see in the picture, the V shape below the waistline is using the top of the skirt block pattern. In the Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt Video Lesson, I show how to join the bodice and skirt blocks together in the 3rd chapter.
Next you draw the neckline style on your front and back bodice patterns, then draw the V shape line below the waistline. You want to try and replicate the same proportions that you see in the photo. Draw the line lightly with a pencil, adjust it if needed until you are satisfied.
Next you need to draw the cut line that goes up at an angle from the point of the V to the waistline, trough the bust point and up to the neckline. Then you need to transfer the waist dart intake into it and cut the line.
Once this is done, you can tape the side bust dart closed, this will automatically transfer the side bust dart intake into the cut line.
Now your front pattern is in two pieces. You need to add seam allowances to each side by taping a sheet of paper to each side of the cut line.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
In this gown are they use the same fabric on the top and skirt and also tell me about sleevs how they sew this sleevs with top part
Dear SaimaSaliha,
I believe that Kate's first gown has an outer layer of chiffon on the skirt and the bust area. A ruching technique has been used on the bust, the rest of the bodice and sleeves are lace.
The second gown is all chiffon. The sleeves and the bodice are sewing using ruching technique.
To show you how to sew these types of gown I will add these topics to my list for future video lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
thank u so much
Salam Madam,
Thank u.
Dear SaimaSaliha,
To make sure the seam is not visible on lace. We can overlay one layer on top of the other. Then cut around the floral designs of the top layer with a distance of about 1 cm. Next we pin and baste the layers together by hand, then sew the top and bottom layers together using zigzag stitches, sewing on the edge of the floral designs on the top layer.
Next we cut away the excess fabric around the designs of the top layer. From the back cut away the excess fabric leaving about 1 cm distance from the zigzag stitches.
Using this technique, will allow you to blend the designs together without a seam being visible from the right side.
Hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Salam,
Plz Madam is it circular skirt or A line ? I want to make back longer than front. How i design it
Dear SaimaSaliha,
If the lace fabric is wide enough we can cut a circle skirt for the dress. Then cut out the floral pieces from the remaining lace and sew them along the bottom edge to give it a nice finish.
If the width of our lace fabric is not wide enough, then we can cut a flared skirt using an a-line skirt pattern. You can watch the a-line skirt pattern making (drafting) video lesson, but flare it out even more by having 3 cut lines going all the way to the waistline from the bottom edge. You should also extend the hemline more at the side seams. Then flare out each cut line by 10 to 15 cm for a knee length skirt. Extending the pattern further down will increase the amount of flare. When cutting the lace fabric, you will need to join extra pieces to complete the skirt at the sides.
If you want the back of the skirt to be longer, add this amount (for example 30 cm) to the center back and draw a smooth curved line, merging it with the side seams. Again to give it a nice finish along the bottom edge, you can cut out floral pieces from the remaining lace and sew them there. The floral you will cut and join along the bottom edge could add to the length of the dress, so you need to consider this when cutting your skirt.
Hope this helps you out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Salam Madam,
In this gown are they use the same fabric on the top and skirt and also tell me about sleevs how they sew this sleevs with top part
Salam Madam,
I want to make this gown. Will you plz explane how i make this
Salam,
Thank you so much for your help.
Dear Saima,
I suggest that you pin the sleeves to the armholes during the fitting, this way you can rotate the sleeves backwards or forwards as needed to make sure they fall nicely. You will then find out exactly where to join the top center of the sleeves to the armholes.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat