The distance between the front and back darts is the same. We get this distance by measuring the distance between the bust points. This will vary depending on the person you are drafting the pattern for.
The division of the bust circumference by 20 has been found to give the best amount of intake for the bust dart trough trial and error. This is a formula that works best for most people, when drafting their pattern. According to the cup size, we should then add an amount not exceeding 2.5 cm to the bust circumference after dividing the bust circumference by 20.
For this dress form we are adding 1.5 cm for the cup size. We are adding this only once, after dividing the bust circumference by 20.
This usually happens when someone is slim and or is tall, this is okay. Just double check your measurements as I indicate in the bodice block pattern making video lesson, chapter 2. Then also double check your calculations when drafting your pattern.
In this chapter I position one dart at each side, these darts have an intake that is twice the intake of the other darts. So they each count as two darts. 2 + 2 (for the sides) + 3 (at the center back) + 2 (at the front) = 9 darts.
This calculation works best for people for a standard body shape. For those who have different body shapes such as a protruding belly or buttocks, it is best to do test fittings on muslin and adjust the dart by reducing some dart intakes and adding them to others.
Since you are using a sheer fabric it is best to do a rolled hem. This type of hem has a narrow hem allowance which will work best when hemming a circle skirt on light weight fabric. We have a rolled hem video lesson which you can find here : Rolled Hem Sewing Video Lesson. Practice this type of hemming on a piece of your fabric a few times first using a curved edge like your circle skirt. This will help you achieve the result you want on your project.
If you are planing to still do a double folded hem please watch chapter 12 of Dress with Circle Skirt Video Lesson. There you will see step by step, how to sew this type of hem on a circle skirt.
Thank you for your reply.. i made a long skirt in sheer fabric .. ankle length..because of the curved shape there is more fabric in the hem allowance than the hem line so when i double fold the hem there is puckering of fabric as there is a little extra fabric on the hem allowance ... so i am not able to get a smooth hemline... do i gather this area? how do i get a smooth hemline?
Thank you
For the length of the elastic band, wrap it around your waist and gradually tighten it until it hugs you comfortably. Then add 2 cm for the overlap, to be able to join the ends.
Since you are cutting out a circle from your fabric for the waistline, the fabric will stretch along this cut line and you may be able to pull up the skirt past your hipline.
To make sure this happens, cut out the circle for your waistline from a scrap piece of fabric, then check to see if you are able to pull the remaining ring, up past your hipline. The scrap piece of fabric should be at least 10 cm bigger, all around the circle you cut out. If this ring does not go past your hipline, trim away 5 mm all around the edge and try again, keep doing this until the ring goes past your hips. You will then need to cut this size circle from the main fabric for your circle skirt.
You can join the elastic band by sewing it with zigzag stitches to the right side of the skirt. You may also make a casing for the elastic band out of your leftover fabric. Cut the strip of fabric on a bias to make the casing, twice the width of the elastic band plus two seam allowances. The length of the bias strip should be long enough to pass your hips plus the seam allowances. Then sew the casing, pass the elastic trough it and join it to the top of the skirt.
If the lace fabric is wide enough we can cut a circle skirt for the dress. Then cut out the floral pieces from the remaining lace and sew them along the bottom edge to give it a nice finish.
If the width of our lace fabric is not wide enough, then we can cut a flared skirt using an a-line skirt pattern. You can watch the a-line skirt pattern making (drafting) video lesson, but flare it out even more by having 3 cut lines going all the way to the waistline from the bottom edge. You should also extend the hemline more at the side seams. Then flare out each cut line by 10 to 15 cm for a knee length skirt. Extending the pattern further down will increase the amount of flare. When cutting the lace fabric, you will need to join extra pieces to complete the skirt at the sides.
If you want the back of the skirt to be longer, add this amount (for example 30 cm) to the center back and draw a smooth curved line, merging it with the side seams. Again to give it a nice finish along the bottom edge, you can cut out floral pieces from the remaining lace and sew them there. The floral you will cut and join along the bottom edge could add to the length of the dress, so you need to consider this when cutting your skirt.
To make sure the seam is not visible on lace. We can overlay one layer on top of the other. Then cut around the floral designs of the top layer with a distance of about 1 cm. Next we pin and baste the layers together by hand, then sew the top and bottom layers together using zigzag stitches, sewing on the edge of the floral designs on the top layer.
Next we cut away the excess fabric around the designs of the top layer. From the back cut away the excess fabric leaving about 1 cm distance from the zigzag stitches.
Using this technique, will allow you to blend the designs together without a seam being visible from the right side.
Hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any questions.
For another example on how to transfer the back shoulder darts, you can watch chapter 7, from the Panel Dress Sewing Video lesson. There, I show how to transfer the back shoulder darts into princess seams, that start from the armholes and connect to the back waist darts.
You can also connect the back shoulder darts directly to the back waist darts. Then create a cut line and add seam allowances to either side.
That makes sense. I use shoulder pads since I have narrow shoulders and it evens out my shoulder to hipline look.
But the question then is how can you transfer it out so that its unseen besides making a yoke? I saw how you did that in the blouse sewing segment.
The reason we draft a pattern with a back shoulder dart, is to be able to follow the contour of the body better around the shoulder and shoulder blade. This creates room for the shoulder blade, just like the side bust dart makes room for the chest on the front pattern.
Usually garments that are more tailored have these darts. However the intakes of these darts can be transferred to different cut lines so that the darts are not visible.
In the past if there was no cut line to transfer the shoulder dart into, they just sewed the dart. But more recently, since most people don't like the look of this type of dart, it is omitted from ready made patterns.
The reason I tech both ways, is for you to have the option of sewing it, transfer it to a cut-line, or not have it at all.
By not drawing the back shoulder dart in the pattern, the finished garment will be gaping below the shoulder line along the back armholes. Unless shoulder pads are used.
First close the side bust dart and tape it down. Then using a different colored pencil draw the new bodice side seam line as you wish, for the ease. Remove the tape to open the side bust dart.
At the top continue the armhole straight to the new side seam. Then you can extend the upper leg of the side bust dart and cross the new side seam as well. Continue the line for the seam allowance.
For the lower leg of the side bust dart, draw a line parallel to the bust line, from where the lower leg meets the old side seam to the new side seam. Then draw a line from where this line crosses the new side seam to the dart point and extend it for the seam allowance as well.
To sew your pull on pants without a zipper. After drafting the pants block pattern as indicated in the lesson, you can use the straight lines from G to A, on both the front and back patterns. When sewing the pants you also dont sew the darts. This way when wearing the pants you will be able to pull them up to your waist. You can also sew a mock fly zipper if you want or have a plain seam at the center front.
I appreciate this reply a lot. I have one added question on the subject of pull on pants. If the goal is just to use elastic at the waist and not have a zipper, how would you atler it? I would like to make pants for work. I currently wear pants that have a mock fly with pockets and an elastic waist. They are wearing out and Mervyn's no longer exists. They weren't the perfect fit anyway, but I need my pants to be a little less fitted from the hip up since I am on my feet and moving and bending all day.
Would that also apply to pants. I have a tummy and thick thighs but not a protruding buttocks. My back is a bit flatter than average, but not totally flat. I usually have a little extra fabric under my rear when I buy pants and I think it's because of that.
Khoda hafiz.
Cheryl
Dear gigisew,
To learn how to sew with elastic please watch our Dirndl Skirt Sewing Video Lesson.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear akinola68,
The distance between the front and back darts is the same. We get this distance by measuring the distance between the bust points. This will vary depending on the person you are drafting the pattern for.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Good job you are doing. Please, how do you get the 20cm you divided by 2 when marking out the back dart in pant pattern drafting lesson?
Dear sulochana94,
The division of the bust circumference by 20 has been found to give the best amount of intake for the bust dart trough trial and error. This is a formula that works best for most people, when drafting their pattern. According to the cup size, we should then add an amount not exceeding 2.5 cm to the bust circumference after dividing the bust circumference by 20.
For this dress form we are adding 1.5 cm for the cup size. We are adding this only once, after dividing the bust circumference by 20.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear nickie,
This usually happens when someone is slim and or is tall, this is okay. Just double check your measurements as I indicate in the bodice block pattern making video lesson, chapter 2. Then also double check your calculations when drafting your pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear zizizi,
To understand how the darts are distributed around the waistline, I would like you to watch chapter 4 of the Skirt Block Pattern Making Video Lesson.
In this chapter I position one dart at each side, these darts have an intake that is twice the intake of the other darts. So they each count as two darts. 2 + 2 (for the sides) + 3 (at the center back) + 2 (at the front) = 9 darts.
This calculation works best for people for a standard body shape. For those who have different body shapes such as a protruding belly or buttocks, it is best to do test fittings on muslin and adjust the dart by reducing some dart intakes and adding them to others.
Hope this explains it,
Nehzat
Dear sewing456,
Since you are using a sheer fabric it is best to do a rolled hem. This type of hem has a narrow hem allowance which will work best when hemming a circle skirt on light weight fabric. We have a rolled hem video lesson which you can find here : Rolled Hem Sewing Video Lesson. Practice this type of hemming on a piece of your fabric a few times first using a curved edge like your circle skirt. This will help you achieve the result you want on your project.
If you are planing to still do a double folded hem please watch chapter 12 of Dress with Circle Skirt Video Lesson. There you will see step by step, how to sew this type of hem on a circle skirt.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you for your reply.. i made a long skirt in sheer fabric .. ankle length..because of the curved shape there is more fabric in the hem allowance than the hem line so when i double fold the hem there is puckering of fabric as there is a little extra fabric on the hem allowance ... so i am not able to get a smooth hemline... do i gather this area? how do i get a smooth hemline?
Thank you
Dear sewing456,
For the length of the elastic band, wrap it around your waist and gradually tighten it until it hugs you comfortably. Then add 2 cm for the overlap, to be able to join the ends.
Since you are cutting out a circle from your fabric for the waistline, the fabric will stretch along this cut line and you may be able to pull up the skirt past your hipline.
To make sure this happens, cut out the circle for your waistline from a scrap piece of fabric, then check to see if you are able to pull the remaining ring, up past your hipline. The scrap piece of fabric should be at least 10 cm bigger, all around the circle you cut out. If this ring does not go past your hipline, trim away 5 mm all around the edge and try again, keep doing this until the ring goes past your hips. You will then need to cut this size circle from the main fabric for your circle skirt.
You can join the elastic band by sewing it with zigzag stitches to the right side of the skirt. You may also make a casing for the elastic band out of your leftover fabric. Cut the strip of fabric on a bias to make the casing, twice the width of the elastic band plus two seam allowances. The length of the bias strip should be long enough to pass your hips plus the seam allowances. Then sew the casing, pass the elastic trough it and join it to the top of the skirt.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear SaimaSaliha,
If the lace fabric is wide enough we can cut a circle skirt for the dress. Then cut out the floral pieces from the remaining lace and sew them along the bottom edge to give it a nice finish.
If the width of our lace fabric is not wide enough, then we can cut a flared skirt using an a-line skirt pattern. You can watch the a-line skirt pattern making (drafting) video lesson, but flare it out even more by having 3 cut lines going all the way to the waistline from the bottom edge. You should also extend the hemline more at the side seams. Then flare out each cut line by 10 to 15 cm for a knee length skirt. Extending the pattern further down will increase the amount of flare. When cutting the lace fabric, you will need to join extra pieces to complete the skirt at the sides.
If you want the back of the skirt to be longer, add this amount (for example 30 cm) to the center back and draw a smooth curved line, merging it with the side seams. Again to give it a nice finish along the bottom edge, you can cut out floral pieces from the remaining lace and sew them there. The floral you will cut and join along the bottom edge could add to the length of the dress, so you need to consider this when cutting your skirt.
Hope this helps you out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Salam,
Plz Madam is it circular skirt or A line ? I want to make back longer than front. How i design it
Dear SaimaSaliha,
To make sure the seam is not visible on lace. We can overlay one layer on top of the other. Then cut around the floral designs of the top layer with a distance of about 1 cm. Next we pin and baste the layers together by hand, then sew the top and bottom layers together using zigzag stitches, sewing on the edge of the floral designs on the top layer.
Next we cut away the excess fabric around the designs of the top layer. From the back cut away the excess fabric leaving about 1 cm distance from the zigzag stitches.
Using this technique, will allow you to blend the designs together without a seam being visible from the right side.
Hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any questions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Salam Madam,
plz help me how i join front and back skirt.
Thank u.
Thanks Nehzat:
that makes sense.
Dear jordans,
For Sewing the buttons you can watch the Button Sewing Essentials Video Lesson.
Below you can watch a YouTube video that will show you how to place these types of buttons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
For another example on how to transfer the back shoulder darts, you can watch chapter 7, from the Panel Dress Sewing Video lesson. There, I show how to transfer the back shoulder darts into princess seams, that start from the armholes and connect to the back waist darts.
You can also connect the back shoulder darts directly to the back waist darts. Then create a cut line and add seam allowances to either side.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thanks Nehzat:
That makes sense. I use shoulder pads since I have narrow shoulders and it evens out my shoulder to hipline look.
But the question then is how can you transfer it out so that its unseen besides making a yoke? I saw how you did that in the blouse sewing segment.
Cheryl
Dear Cheryl,
The reason we draft a pattern with a back shoulder dart, is to be able to follow the contour of the body better around the shoulder and shoulder blade. This creates room for the shoulder blade, just like the side bust dart makes room for the chest on the front pattern.
Usually garments that are more tailored have these darts. However the intakes of these darts can be transferred to different cut lines so that the darts are not visible.
In the past if there was no cut line to transfer the shoulder dart into, they just sewed the dart. But more recently, since most people don't like the look of this type of dart, it is omitted from ready made patterns.
The reason I tech both ways, is for you to have the option of sewing it, transfer it to a cut-line, or not have it at all.
By not drawing the back shoulder dart in the pattern, the finished garment will be gaping below the shoulder line along the back armholes. Unless shoulder pads are used.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
First close the side bust dart and tape it down. Then using a different colored pencil draw the new bodice side seam line as you wish, for the ease. Remove the tape to open the side bust dart.
At the top continue the armhole straight to the new side seam. Then you can extend the upper leg of the side bust dart and cross the new side seam as well. Continue the line for the seam allowance.
For the lower leg of the side bust dart, draw a line parallel to the bust line, from where the lower leg meets the old side seam to the new side seam. Then draw a line from where this line crosses the new side seam to the dart point and extend it for the seam allowance as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Cheryl,
To sew your pull on pants without a zipper. After drafting the pants block pattern as indicated in the lesson, you can use the straight lines from G to A, on both the front and back patterns. When sewing the pants you also dont sew the darts. This way when wearing the pants you will be able to pull them up to your waist. You can also sew a mock fly zipper if you want or have a plain seam at the center front.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzt:
I appreciate this reply a lot. I have one added question on the subject of pull on pants. If the goal is just to use elastic at the waist and not have a zipper, how would you atler it? I would like to make pants for work. I currently wear pants that have a mock fly with pockets and an elastic waist. They are wearing out and Mervyn's no longer exists. They weren't the perfect fit anyway, but I need my pants to be a little less fitted from the hip up since I am on my feet and moving and bending all day.
Thanks
Dear Cheryl,
Yes you can apply the same to pants.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat:
Would that also apply to pants. I have a tummy and thick thighs but not a protruding buttocks. My back is a bit flatter than average, but not totally flat. I usually have a little extra fabric under my rear when I buy pants and I think it's because of that.
Khoda hafiz.
Cheryl
Thank you Nehzat. That is what I will do.