When choosing between different brands of sewing machine, the best thing to do is going to the show rooms if possible and try out the machines using light, medium and heavy weight fabrics. Bring these fabrics with you and ask a sales person to show you how the machine works and if it can handle your specific fabric sample.
I recommend going to a store that specializes in sewing machines. Since they let you practice on and guide you in the use and selection of their sewing machines according to your needs.
Your question was not very clear. However I believe the 7 cm you mentioned, should be the 7 mm extension of the upper hip line on the front and back side seams instead. This is after you checked the circumference on the pattern and compared it to the circumference of your upper hip body measurement.
Any amount that is needed to be added to the upper hip line according to the body measurement is okay.
Sometimes in order to draw the new side seam lines smoothly, we need to extend the lower hip line from the side seams of the front and back pattern as well. Whatever amount we extend the lower hip lines by at the side seams, we need to extend the hemline by along the side seams as well. Then draw new side seams smoothly by connecting these points.
It is best to use a zigzag stitch on this type of fabric when sewing a rolled hem by machine, using the special rolling foot you mentioned in the title.
The width of the zigzag stitches should cover the entire rolled hem and the length should be adjusted starting from the medium setting down, until you get a nice result. It is best to practice on a piece of your material to see which width and length settings work best in combination for your kind of fabric.
You may need to lower or increase the thread tensions of the bobbin and top thread as well to get the best results.
I also recomand a thinner thread for your type of fabric.
I became a bernina fan with my first 145s now my portable machine. Last year I got a 200 with embroidery, memorized buttonholes and wind bobbins while I sew. These are great machines. Good luck in your search.
I did visit the site and could not find a whole picture showing this particular pants. However it would be a very long explanation since you will need to style a pants block pattern to be able to sew this pants. There is a need to make a lesson to show how it is done.
This is the type of dress I am referring to. Can you please explain how to construct this type of dress. My concern is where to open the side dart and waist dart in this type of outfits. I think there should be an invisible zipper at the back (can't see it). From shoulders to waist it is straight 3" inch panels and from waist flare to bottom with inserts of blue fabric. How to cut the blue inserts. There is a border too at the bottom. How to cut this border - should I cut on straight or cross fabric. Please explain.
To draw the lengthwise grain line on your pattern pieces, you need to draw them parallel to the center front line and center back line about the middle of your pattern pieces. The 12 or 14 cm is just what happened to be about the middle of those particular pattern pieces Nehzat was working on, yours could be less or more.
Once you subtract your waist circumference by your lowerhip circumference you get 8 cm. 8 cm divided by 9 will give you the intake of your waist darts. In this case 0.88 cm or 8.8 mm we round this up to 0.9 cm or 9 mm. This is not a negative number, but just one millimeter less than 1 cm. All you need to do when drafting your pattern, is measure 9 mm for each of the waist dart intakes.
You can fix the gaping fabric from the front armholes, by making the bust darts wider than they are.
For the loose fabric under the bust, you need to increase the intake of the waist darts under the bust area. You can pinch and pin the fabric to get a good idea for how much to take in the darts.
To see how to pinch and pin the excess fabric under the bust are you can watch the First Fitting chapter from the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson. Here there are cut lines, however the concept for pinching and pinning the excess fabric is the same for darts. This will make the garment fit nicer on the body. The following chapters in the panel dress sewing video lesson will also show you how to do the adjustments to get a symmetrical result on both sides of your garment as well.
You know, it is always an hard task to use the serger especially you are the newbies to the complex machine. You can ask somebody for help. You know, it is also necessary to spend sometime in practicing. You surely can watch the vedio for learning to use the machine. You can get some useful information about the serger here.
You know, it is always an hard task to use the serger especially you are the newbies to the complex machine. You can ask somebody for help. You know, it is also necessary to spend sometime in practicing. You surely can watch the vedio for learning to use the machine. You can get some useful information about the serger here.
The calculations that are found in the pattern drafting video lessons including the pants block pattern one, come from the knowledge I gained trough others and my own experience. I have made some improvements of my own to these calculations over the years using my degree in sculpting and the human body shape.
A rolled hem can only be done by hand or a rolled hem foot if we dont want to baste it first. Since the rolled hem is narrow it is very hard to sew it with a standard presser foot without basting the hem in advance.
If you want to sew a very narrow double folded hem using a starndard presser foot, you need to baste a very narrow single fold by hand, then hand baste a second fold a bit wider than the first. Make sure that the basting stitches are short, about 4 mm long. Use a different color for the second basting stitches, so that you can remove the first one before sewing by machine.
To make sure the end result looks good, use a double threaded needle when basting and you need to also pull on both sides as you sew the hem by machine. Practice on the same material before doing this on your project.
Dear Wolfways,
When choosing between different brands of sewing machine, the best thing to do is going to the show rooms if possible and try out the machines using light, medium and heavy weight fabrics. Bring these fabrics with you and ask a sales person to show you how the machine works and if it can handle your specific fabric sample.
I recommend going to a store that specializes in sewing machines. Since they let you practice on and guide you in the use and selection of their sewing machines according to your needs.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jrmahoney,
Your question was not very clear. However I believe the 7 cm you mentioned, should be the 7 mm extension of the upper hip line on the front and back side seams instead. This is after you checked the circumference on the pattern and compared it to the circumference of your upper hip body measurement.
Any amount that is needed to be added to the upper hip line according to the body measurement is okay.
Sometimes in order to draw the new side seam lines smoothly, we need to extend the lower hip line from the side seams of the front and back pattern as well. Whatever amount we extend the lower hip lines by at the side seams, we need to extend the hemline by along the side seams as well. Then draw new side seams smoothly by connecting these points.
Let me know if this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear hilloah,
In the Shirt Sewing video lesson, the bottom hem of the shirt is sewn after topstitching the two sides of the front opening.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear hilloah,
It is best to use a zigzag stitch on this type of fabric when sewing a rolled hem by machine, using the special rolling foot you mentioned in the title.
The width of the zigzag stitches should cover the entire rolled hem and the length should be adjusted starting from the medium setting down, until you get a nice result. It is best to practice on a piece of your material to see which width and length settings work best in combination for your kind of fabric.
You may need to lower or increase the thread tensions of the bobbin and top thread as well to get the best results.
I also recomand a thinner thread for your type of fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear hilloah,
Welcome to our site. I am happy that you find the video lessons can build on your existing knowledge.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Ida,
Welcome to our site, I hope that you will benefit from the sewing video lessons and share your progress with us.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I became a bernina fan with my first 145s now my portable machine. Last year I got a 200 with embroidery, memorized buttonholes and wind bobbins while I sew. These are great machines. Good luck in your search.
Dear Nehzat
Thanks for the update.
Dear Fran,
As of right now we do not have a lesson on this topic. I will add it to my list for future lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Rosie,
I did visit the site and could not find a whole picture showing this particular pants. However it would be a very long explanation since you will need to style a pants block pattern to be able to sew this pants. There is a need to make a lesson to show how it is done.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Shekinah,
The last part of the lesson will be up by the end of this month. You should be able to follow along and finish sewing the a-skirt.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Rosie,
I need to see a picture of the whole garment to be able to explain what you need to do better.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat
This is the type of dress I am referring to. Can you please explain how to construct this type of dress. My concern is where to open the side dart and waist dart in this type of outfits. I think there should be an invisible zipper at the back (can't see it). From shoulders to waist it is straight 3" inch panels and from waist flare to bottom with inserts of blue fabric. How to cut the blue inserts. There is a border too at the bottom. How to cut this border - should I cut on straight or cross fabric. Please explain.
Dear Rosie,
If you could please provide a picture of the dress you want to sew or a drawing so that I can see exactly what you intend to do.
You can post the image here in a reply, or email support@esewingworkshop.com and we will post it here for you.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Array,
To draw the lengthwise grain line on your pattern pieces, you need to draw them parallel to the center front line and center back line about the middle of your pattern pieces. The 12 or 14 cm is just what happened to be about the middle of those particular pattern pieces Nehzat was working on, yours could be less or more.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Kimberly,
Once you subtract your waist circumference by your lowerhip circumference you get 8 cm. 8 cm divided by 9 will give you the intake of your waist darts. In this case 0.88 cm or 8.8 mm we round this up to 0.9 cm or 9 mm. This is not a negative number, but just one millimeter less than 1 cm. All you need to do when drafting your pattern, is measure 9 mm for each of the waist dart intakes.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear iekweani,
You can fix the gaping fabric from the front armholes, by making the bust darts wider than they are.
For the loose fabric under the bust, you need to increase the intake of the waist darts under the bust area. You can pinch and pin the fabric to get a good idea for how much to take in the darts.
To see how to pinch and pin the excess fabric under the bust are you can watch the First Fitting chapter from the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson. Here there are cut lines, however the concept for pinching and pinning the excess fabric is the same for darts. This will make the garment fit nicer on the body. The following chapters in the panel dress sewing video lesson will also show you how to do the adjustments to get a symmetrical result on both sides of your garment as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you
You know, it is always an hard task to use the serger especially you are the newbies to the complex machine. You can ask somebody for help. You know, it is also necessary to spend sometime in practicing. You surely can watch the vedio for learning to use the machine. You can get some useful information about the serger here.
You know, it is always an hard task to use the serger especially you are the newbies to the complex machine. You can ask somebody for help. You know, it is also necessary to spend sometime in practicing. You surely can watch the vedio for learning to use the machine. You can get some useful information about the serger here.
Dear Patternmkr,
The calculations that are found in the pattern drafting video lessons including the pants block pattern one, come from the knowledge I gained trough others and my own experience. I have made some improvements of my own to these calculations over the years using my degree in sculpting and the human body shape.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
thank you very much Nehzat, i will practice doing it that way. thanks again. :-)
Thank you so much, glad to hear that your pants block pattern turned out good.
You can watch chapter 6 of the Pants Block Pattern Styling - Video Lesson, to learn how to adjust the hem circumference according to your taste.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Ann,
A rolled hem can only be done by hand or a rolled hem foot if we dont want to baste it first. Since the rolled hem is narrow it is very hard to sew it with a standard presser foot without basting the hem in advance.
If you want to sew a very narrow double folded hem using a starndard presser foot, you need to baste a very narrow single fold by hand, then hand baste a second fold a bit wider than the first. Make sure that the basting stitches are short, about 4 mm long. Use a different color for the second basting stitches, so that you can remove the first one before sewing by machine.
To make sure the end result looks good, use a double threaded needle when basting and you need to also pull on both sides as you sew the hem by machine. Practice on the same material before doing this on your project.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Thank you!