Hi I`ve just stumbled across this resource to help with my sewing skills/technique. I`m just embarking on a quilting patchwork class and absolutely loving it. Ive often attempted sewing projects in the past and have never been very happy with the end result. Hopefully with this website and forum things will be much better in the future and I will be pleased with things I make by the the way I`m from South Wales UK
Hello. I joined in mid-October, but never came to this side to introduce myself. I live in the Washington, DC area and am a beginner. I know how to sew straight lines, thread the machine, wind the bobbin. Just doing that again over the past 8 months or so after being away from sewing for about 30 years (I learned sewing in Home Economics classes in my early teens).
I will probably subscribe after I've reviewed some of the free courses--which look great! Very detailed. Thanks again. -JC
I reside in Australia, the area that I live in does not have a sewing club now as it closed down about 6 months ago. I often dont finish things because I get stuck and dont know what to do. I have 2 Granddaughters and 2 Grandsons all under 4 so they are at the best age to sew for. I have made them nothing but a tracksuit in the past. I am looking forward to making them dresses, shorts, shirts etc.
Glad that I found your site, thank you for setting it up, I will tell my friends to have a look as well.
We will definitely make a video lesson for pants block patterns. In addition we are also going to teach how to draft a sleeve pattern and different style collars.
Latter we will style these block patterns to make pants and shirts.
Unfortunately we do not have any instruction videos for embroidery attachments. However you can go to the dealer for your particular machine and ask for a demo. They should be able to help you out.
Thanks for your kind words. To shorten the Sleeves you can do so in two ways either at the armholes or at the cuffs.
The easier way is to shorten the sleeves above the cuffs. However this will make the plackets shorter. If the plackets are not going to be shortened too much, then this is okay. You want to have at least 7 to 8 cm for the placket length.
When fitting make sure the cuff is buttoned and that your husband's arm is straight down. Now pinch and pin the excess fabric in a circle around the elbow area. Pin closely together.
Now measure the excess fabric at the pins and get the average measurement.
Lets say that the average is 6 cm, you would take away 2 cm for comfort and range of movement. This will give you 4 cm for shortening the sleeves. This is done for sleeves that have cuffs, otherwise when you bend the elbows the sleeves would feel short.
To shorten the sleeves at the top we need to have a shirt that is large at the bodice as well. This is because sleeves are tapered and narrow as they go down. Therefore by shortening the sleeves from the top the sleeves will be tight for the armhole. If we are able to take in from the side seams of the shirt, we can sew the sleeves on without any problems.
We will be making a lesson on this topic for men's and women's shirts. On women's shirts we can use a different technique to make the sleeve fit the armhole, without taking in from the bodice side seam.
Unfortunately, most of the manufacturers of denim or jeans for women do not design the pants to fit a woman's figure. For almost all women no matter their size and shape their buttocks protrude much more compared to their waist. This is why we get the gap at the back of the pants.
If the designers of women's jeans place darts in their block patterns and then transfer it into the yoke seam line, the jeans would fit women's bodies much better.
Bellow I will explain how you can fix this problem in a few different ways.
1) Re-sewing the flat felt seam evenly
You can use ladder stitches (15. Ladder Stitch Basting) to baste the seam from the right side of the pants. Start at the waistline and baste about 3 cm past the end of the gaping fabric. Make sure the stitches are about 1 cm in length, to keep the pieces together better when we remove the top stitch lines.
Now when you remove the top stitch lines in this area, the pieces will not fall apart. This way you will also have the reference seam line for taking in the excess fabric.
2) Gaping at the back of the pants
If the gap is not too big, you can take in just from the center back seam, without affecting the look of the center back seam.
Otherwise If the gap is larger and only on the yoke. You can sew two waist darts about 7 to 10 cm from the center back seam, to get rid of the gap.
However these darts should not have very large intakes because they are short and end before reaching the yoke seam.
Usually for those with a very small waist circumference we take in from the center back seam and sew in two waist darts as well. We may also consider sewing two darts on either side of the center back seam of the yoke. Giving us a total of four darts in the back.
3) Taking off the waistband
In case you need to take in from the center back, the excess waistband length at the top of the center back seam can be removed by adding a seam at the center back of the waistband. Then re-sewing the belt loop in place
Sometimes when the waistband is large, we can take in the waistband at the side seams. However we need to have enough excess fabric for the seam allowances. This way you can avoid moving most if not all the loops.
Other times we may want to take in from the side seams and the center back, you can take off the waistband along the back, passing the side seams by a few cm towards the front. Then take in all the excess length of the waistband from the center back.
To do this, you need to remove the center back belt loop, and sew it back latter. The side belt loops on the back can stay on at the top and be undone at the bottom to be re-sewn in place again after taking in the side seams of the pants. This way the front of the waistband will stay intact.
We do have two examples of running or straight stitches, they are located in the Hand Sewing Essentials and Tips video Lessons and the Embroidery Essentials video Lessons. However you need to be a subscriber to get access.
The example from the hand sewing lesson is located here: 16. Running Stitch
I'm just a beginner in embroidery and I am looking for a free video or instructions that will teach me to do various stitches. Especially the straight stitch. I need this stitch to finish a project I am working on. Thanks, Connie
Regarding the amount that we add to the calculation for the side dart, you can compare your own proportions to the manikin and see how much your bust protrudes from your own body.
If it is less than the manikin, add less than 1.5 cm, if it is more you should add more, not exceeding 2.5 cm.
You can then use muslin fabric to sew a top and see how it fits. If you added more than needed to the dart intake calculation the dart point will not fill out with the bust point.
However if you added too little, you will see a ripple forming from the armhole towards the bust point. The side seam bellow the armhole may also droop down.
Usually when the buttocks are small and don't fill out the space on the back of pants, in addition to what you have done you should also pull up on the excess from the top.
When fitting, pinch the excess fabric at the back bellow the waistband and pin it in different places. Start at the center back and gradually pin towards the side seams on both sides. Sometimes the excess fabric will continue past the side seams towards the front, depending on the body shape.
Now you use needle and thread to mark the pinched fabric along the pins. This way you can measure the amount of fabric that needs to be removed along the waistline.
Next you undo the waistband stitches along the thread marks, extending the opening a few cm past the last thread marks on each side.
Now you need to baste the waistband again, placing the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
Usually when using this technique, we need to increase the intake and the lenght of the darts as well.
Make sure to do a fitting again, before sewing by machine and trimming the excess fabric.
Yes, the jacket sewing lesson will begin with how to draft the pattern, using the bodice block pattern video that we have already thought: Bodice Block Pattern-making Video Lessons
Then we will style this pattern and make it into a jacket pattern, and lining pattern.
We will use these patterns to sew the jacket step by step.
You may only take in from the center back if the pants are not too large, otherwise you can take in from the sides as well, to make it fit.
This would apply to both men's and women's pants, whether for dress pants or jeans.
If the pants are too large and we take in all the excess fabric from the center back, we could end up with a lot off loose fabric at the buttocks area. It is best to check and see during fitting to make sure that you can remove all the excess from the center back, or if you need to take some from the sides as well.
my stepdaughter is pentacostol and cant wear pants.ive taken to creating long skirts for her from jeans here or really cheap 1's from garage sales or thrift stores.very fun and they look great!no patterns to follow either.hope you get new machine and have fun with it
I find that it is best to add darts to the back as well as taking in some from the side seams.
This will distribute the intake much better. Adding two darts to the back will give a nice shape to the bum. If you are very flat, you might need to add longer darts than usual, to take in more fabric from lower down.
Hi I`ve just stumbled across this resource to help with my sewing skills/technique. I`m just embarking on a quilting patchwork class and absolutely loving it. Ive often attempted sewing projects in the past and have never been very happy with the end result. Hopefully with this website and forum things will be much better in the future and I will be pleased with things I make by the the way I`m from South Wales UK
Hi Lizzieshome & Stitchsdm
I to am a fellow aussie who has found the site. Living in the Top End.
Hope you got your new sewing machine Lizzieshome
DP1108
Hello. I joined in mid-October, but never came to this side to introduce myself. I live in the Washington, DC area and am a beginner. I know how to sew straight lines, thread the machine, wind the bobbin. Just doing that again over the past 8 months or so after being away from sewing for about 30 years (I learned sewing in Home Economics classes in my early teens).
I will probably subscribe after I've reviewed some of the free courses--which look great! Very detailed. Thanks again. -JC
Hello my name is Pam,
I reside in Australia, the area that I live in does not have a sewing club now as it closed down about 6 months ago. I often dont finish things because I get stuck and dont know what to do. I have 2 Granddaughters and 2 Grandsons all under 4 so they are at the best age to sew for. I have made them nothing but a tracksuit in the past. I am looking forward to making them dresses, shorts, shirts etc.
Glad that I found your site, thank you for setting it up, I will tell my friends to have a look as well.
Regards Pam
It is very clear and easy to understand
thank you
Dear Denise,
We will definitely make a video lesson for pants block patterns. In addition we are also going to teach how to draft a sleeve pattern and different style collars.
Latter we will style these block patterns to make pants and shirts.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear arlie,
Unfortunately we do not have any instruction videos for embroidery attachments. However you can go to the dealer for your particular machine and ask for a demo. They should be able to help you out.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Denise,
Thanks for your kind words. To shorten the Sleeves you can do so in two ways either at the armholes or at the cuffs.
The easier way is to shorten the sleeves above the cuffs. However this will make the plackets shorter. If the plackets are not going to be shortened too much, then this is okay. You want to have at least 7 to 8 cm for the placket length.
When fitting make sure the cuff is buttoned and that your husband's arm is straight down. Now pinch and pin the excess fabric in a circle around the elbow area. Pin closely together.
Now measure the excess fabric at the pins and get the average measurement.
Lets say that the average is 6 cm, you would take away 2 cm for comfort and range of movement. This will give you 4 cm for shortening the sleeves. This is done for sleeves that have cuffs, otherwise when you bend the elbows the sleeves would feel short.
To shorten the sleeves at the top we need to have a shirt that is large at the bodice as well. This is because sleeves are tapered and narrow as they go down. Therefore by shortening the sleeves from the top the sleeves will be tight for the armhole. If we are able to take in from the side seams of the shirt, we can sew the sleeves on without any problems.
We will be making a lesson on this topic for men's and women's shirts. On women's shirts we can use a different technique to make the sleeve fit the armhole, without taking in from the bodice side seam.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Amizan,
Usually we put member requests to a vote to see if there is enough interest for us to make a particular video lesson.
In the mean time you can click on the bellow link where you can find some simple explanations for how to make harem pants.
1. http://optionality.net/pantarei/354657.jpg
You can also purchase patterns on line which come with information on how to cut and sew the garment.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Carol,
Unfortunately, most of the manufacturers of denim or jeans for women do not design the pants to fit a woman's figure. For almost all women no matter their size and shape their buttocks protrude much more compared to their waist. This is why we get the gap at the back of the pants.
If the designers of women's jeans place darts in their block patterns and then transfer it into the yoke seam line, the jeans would fit women's bodies much better.
Bellow I will explain how you can fix this problem in a few different ways.
1) Re-sewing the flat felt seam evenly
You can use ladder stitches (15. Ladder Stitch Basting) to baste the seam from the right side of the pants. Start at the waistline and baste about 3 cm past the end of the gaping fabric. Make sure the stitches are about 1 cm in length, to keep the pieces together better when we remove the top stitch lines.
Now when you remove the top stitch lines in this area, the pieces will not fall apart. This way you will also have the reference seam line for taking in the excess fabric.
After basing the excess fabric we do a fitting to make sure it fits well, before finishing the seam using the flat felt seam style (8. Sewing Flat Felt Seams or Blue Jean Seams (Self Finishing)).
2) Gaping at the back of the pants
If the gap is not too big, you can take in just from the center back seam, without affecting the look of the center back seam.
Otherwise If the gap is larger and only on the yoke. You can sew two waist darts about 7 to 10 cm from the center back seam, to get rid of the gap.
However these darts should not have very large intakes because they are short and end before reaching the yoke seam.
Usually for those with a very small waist circumference we take in from the center back seam and sew in two waist darts as well. We may also consider sewing two darts on either side of the center back seam of the yoke. Giving us a total of four darts in the back.
3) Taking off the waistband
In case you need to take in from the center back, the excess waistband length at the top of the center back seam can be removed by adding a seam at the center back of the waistband. Then re-sewing the belt loop in place
Sometimes when the waistband is large, we can take in the waistband at the side seams. However we need to have enough excess fabric for the seam allowances. This way you can avoid moving most if not all the loops.
Other times we may want to take in from the side seams and the center back, you can take off the waistband along the back, passing the side seams by a few cm towards the front. Then take in all the excess length of the waistband from the center back.
To do this, you need to remove the center back belt loop, and sew it back latter. The side belt loops on the back can stay on at the top and be undone at the bottom to be re-sewn in place again after taking in the side seams of the pants. This way the front of the waistband will stay intact.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Connie,
We do have two examples of running or straight stitches, they are located in the Hand Sewing Essentials and Tips video Lessons and the Embroidery Essentials video Lessons. However you need to be a subscriber to get access.
The example from the hand sewing lesson is located here: 16. Running Stitch
The example from the embroidery lesson is located here: 4. Running Stitches
Thanks
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
I enjoy the sewing lessons, this is the best thing that happen to me.
my husband has a very nice shirt but the sleeves is too long,
I want to shorten the sleeves......must I shorten it from the sholders?
are we going to have a lesson on this (if a shirt is too big how to alter the shirt)
Best Regards
Denise
Hello
I'm just a beginner in embroidery and I am looking for a free video or instructions that will teach me to do various stitches. Especially the straight stitch. I need this stitch to finish a project I am working on. Thanks, Connie
Dear Sewmama,
Regarding the amount that we add to the calculation for the side dart, you can compare your own proportions to the manikin and see how much your bust protrudes from your own body.
If it is less than the manikin, add less than 1.5 cm, if it is more you should add more, not exceeding 2.5 cm.
You can then use muslin fabric to sew a top and see how it fits. If you added more than needed to the dart intake calculation the dart point will not fill out with the bust point.
However if you added too little, you will see a ripple forming from the armhole towards the bust point. The side seam bellow the armhole may also droop down.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Ofelian,
We will have a lesson on how to enlarge patterns in the future.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Nehzat
Dear annelynn
Usually when the buttocks are small and don't fill out the space on the back of pants, in addition to what you have done you should also pull up on the excess from the top.
When fitting, pinch the excess fabric at the back bellow the waistband and pin it in different places. Start at the center back and gradually pin towards the side seams on both sides. Sometimes the excess fabric will continue past the side seams towards the front, depending on the body shape.
Now you use needle and thread to mark the pinched fabric along the pins. This way you can measure the amount of fabric that needs to be removed along the waistline.
Next you undo the waistband stitches along the thread marks, extending the opening a few cm past the last thread marks on each side.
Now you need to baste the waistband again, placing the excess fabric in the seam allowance.
Usually when using this technique, we need to increase the intake and the lenght of the darts as well.
Make sure to do a fitting again, before sewing by machine and trimming the excess fabric.
This should make your pants fit perfectly.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear 1956,
Thanks for the suggestion.
We will put your lesson request to a vote amongst other suggestions.
Nehzat
Dear Sam50,
Yes, the jacket sewing lesson will begin with how to draft the pattern, using the bodice block pattern video that we have already thought: Bodice Block Pattern-making Video Lessons
Then we will style this pattern and make it into a jacket pattern, and lining pattern.
We will use these patterns to sew the jacket step by step.
Thanks for your interest.
Nehzat
Hi Denise,
You may only take in from the center back if the pants are not too large, otherwise you can take in from the sides as well, to make it fit.
This would apply to both men's and women's pants, whether for dress pants or jeans.
If the pants are too large and we take in all the excess fabric from the center back, we could end up with a lot off loose fabric at the buttocks area. It is best to check and see during fitting to make sure that you can remove all the excess from the center back, or if you need to take some from the sides as well.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Crest2,
We have a video regarding how to square and cut equal pieces of fabric, you can find it by clicking on this link: 3. Fabric Preparation for Practicing Seam Styles (Free Sample)
You do not need to be a subscriber to view this portion of the Seams by Sewing Machine title. It is available to our free members as well.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Dear Meocon
We have a bodice block pattern DVD you can purchase in the DVD VIDEOS section at the top of the page.
We are also going to release a pants block pattern video soon.
Thanks,
Nehzat
Will this video be on making the pattern thru sewing the finished garment? If so, I am so thrilled and on board!
my stepdaughter is pentacostol and cant wear pants.ive taken to creating long skirts for her from jeans here or really cheap 1's from garage sales or thrift stores.very fun and they look great!no patterns to follow either.hope you get new machine and have fun with it
I find that it is best to add darts to the back as well as taking in some from the side seams.
This will distribute the intake much better. Adding two darts to the back will give a nice shape to the bum. If you are very flat, you might need to add longer darts than usual, to take in more fabric from lower down.
Hi Nehzat,
My husbands pants is too big for him.........Does mens pants get altered same as ladies, or from the back seam?
Regards
Denise