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Full Figure Skirt Block Pattern Making (Drafting)
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Thu, 08/23/2012 - 04:46
Dear Nehzat,
The total measurement of upper hip (40.7cm) on the pattern is larger than my upper hip circumference(39.3=78.5/2). So, I followed your instruction by increasing the length of all center lines of darts in order to make it less. I could not go beyond 4cm at the centre lines because the dart created by A-F on center back line wiould go beyond lower hip line.
Please advise.
Thank you.
Jsee
Tue, 08/28/2012 - 16:13
#2
Re: Full Figure Skirt Pattern (Darts)
Dear Jsee,
You are welcome. You don't need to extend the center back dart the same as the waist darts. So what you need to do is just lengthen the waist darts on the front and back to get the difference you need.
Please let me know if this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thu, 09/06/2012 - 09:28
#3
Dear Nehzat,
This is the
Dear Nehzat,
This is the forth attempt I draft the skirt block pattern but I am unable to proceed as I still can not make the total upper hip pattern measurement larger than my half upper hip circumference measurement.( the difference is 2.2cm) by following your advice.
I realised that as the length of the darts becomes more, the difference becomes less. I could not extend the darts beyond 7 cm because the centre line of the back dart would fall on the upper hip line.
I would appreacite very much if you could enlighten me on this matter.
Thank you very much for your patience.
Yours sincerely,
jschan_123
Fri, 09/07/2012 - 12:38
#4
Dear jschan_123,
The center
Dear jschan_123,
The center line of the waist darts can reach down to the lower hipline if it is necessary. I would like you to post your measurements here then I will be able to help you more.
Nehzat
Sat, 09/08/2012 - 04:43
#5
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you very
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you very much for your prompt reply.
The measurements :
Waist Circumference = 66.5cm
Lower Hip Circumference =89.5cm ; Lower Hip Length = 21cm
Upper Hip Circumference =78cm ; Upper Hip Length =10.5 cm
Bust Distance = 16cm
Hopefully, I can proceed after this.
Yours sincerely,
jschan_123
Thu, 09/13/2012 - 18:34
#6
Re: Skirt Block Pattern Making Dart Adjustment
Dear Jsee,
Thanks for posting your measurements. I drafted a pattern with the measurements you gave, and since we don't want the waist darts to be too long and reach the lower hipline, I suggest that you convert each of the front and back waist darts into two.
The Skirt Sewing from a Pattern Video Lesson will show you how to do this in chapters 3 and 4.
You can also lengthen the center back dart by about 2 cm.
Once you draft the second sets of waist darts on the front and back patterns, then you extend all the center lines of your waist darts and move the dart points down until the upper hipline on your pattern is smaller than half of your upper hip circumference. You may need to make the new waist darts almost the same length as the first waist darts to achieve this.
Another option is to make your dart legs curve a bit outwards especially on the back pattern, this way you will not need to lengthen your darts too much. Especially if the buttocks protrude more than usual.
I hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Fri, 09/21/2012 - 10:01
#7
skirt block pattern
Dear Nehzat,
Thanks a million for your clear explaination. After watching your video on line, my confidence soars and I become quite ambitious at times.
If I want to do sew a "dress with pleated skirt, apaghetti straps. Piping and Invisible zipper" as shown in your video or a cheongsam with only one set of waist darts on the front and the back pattern, could you please advise me on smoothing out the side seam at the hip line again without adding the second sets of waist darts on the front and back pattern( is it possible to do that) ?
Yours sincerely,
jschan_123
Fri, 09/21/2012 - 11:50
#8
Re: Dress with Pleated Skirt or Cheongsam
Dear Jsee,
It is possible to sew this type of garments with two sets of darts on the front and back. I have done this myself many times in the past, when I wanted the garment to be very fitted.
But if you want some ease around the waist area, you don't have to sew the second set of darts. But if you want you can increase the intake of the first darts a bit more. You still would draw the second set of darts on the pattern but you wont sew them on your garment.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thu, 08/23/2012 - 17:36
#9
Re: Skirt Block Pattern Making (Upper Hip Adjustment)
Dear Jsee,
From what I understand you have extended the center back dart only. You need to lengthen all the front and back waist darts to be able to reduce the upper hipline on your pattern.
Here is a link with a detailed explanation that I gave to another member about this.
http://esewingworkshop.com/forum/checking-upper-hip-measurement-pattern
and yes you should not be going beyond the lower hipline when extending your darts.
Make sure to double check all the body measurements and your pattern measurements when you drafted the pattern.
Another situation that might cause this is that when you measure for the upper hip circumference on the body, you may have measured further up than exactly in the middle of the waistline and the lower hip circumference.
Please let me know if this helped you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Quick Links:
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, I have extended all the darts( 3 darts = 1 front dart & 2 back darts) and I have tripple checked the boday measurements (even marked at the body in order to get the most accurate measurements), I have linked to your website to seek the explanation as well.
However,the most that I could add to all the center dart lines is 3.8cm. (because the dart at the center back line would fall on the lower hip line), The total measurement on the pattern is 39.2cm. It is a mere 1mm difference.
Can I omit this procedure, and just smoothen the seam line between waist line and upper hip liine this case ?
I hope that you are able to understand what I mean because my command in English is not good.
Yours sincerely.
Jsee