It is possible to learn and be able to sew a dress by hand in about a month without any prior experience. With enough dedication you will be able to do this. I suggest watching and practicing the sewing essentials and garment sewing lessons to learn and get some ideas on how to sew this dress.
If your do not have a hemmer foot, you can sew rolled hem by hand, Here is a link to the lesson where I show how to do this: Rolled Hem Sewing Video Lesson.
Another option is to sew a very narrow double folded hem using your standard presser foot.
If you want to do this by machine, sew a row of stitches with a matching thread color along the edge of your fabric, while aligning the edge of the fabric with the right side of the presser foot. This stitch line should be parallel with the raw edge of your fabric. Now place a piece of masking tape on the needle plate, 5 mm from the right side of the presser foot and parallel to it.
Now sew another stitch line with a contrasting color and longer stitches and lower tension, since you will be removing this later. Now trim from the raw edge leaving about 4 mm distance to the first stitch line. Next fold along the first stitch line and hand baste to keep the fold in place (you can sew by machine using a matching color if your want). Now you have the first fold.
Now fold again along the contrasting machine stitch line and baste by hand, to keep the double fold in place. Finish by sewing the double fold by machine along the inner folded edge. Now you can remove the contrasting machine threads and hand basting then press.
Thanks for posting your measurements. I drafted a pattern with the measurements you gave, and since we don't want the waist darts to be too long and reach the lower hipline, I suggest that you convert each of the front and back waist darts into two.
You can also lengthen the center back dart by about 2 cm.
Once you draft the second sets of waist darts on the front and back patterns, then you extend all the center lines of your waist darts and move the dart points down until the upper hipline on your pattern is smaller than half of your upper hip circumference. You may need to make the new waist darts almost the same length as the first waist darts to achieve this.
Another option is to make your dart legs curve a bit outwards especially on the back pattern, this way you will not need to lengthen your darts too much. Especially if the buttocks protrude more than usual.
We have just added the Pattern Diagrams for the Bodice Block Pattern Making, Straight and Tapered Skirt Block Pattern Making and the Pants Block Pattern Making Video Lessons. The Diagrams are posted on each lesson page below the lesson description. The Full Figure Skirt Block Pattern and the Sleeve Block Patterns will be released soon.
You will be able to print these pattern diagrams and the measurements you will need on one sheet or view them on line by clicking on the diagram image.
The center line of the waist darts can reach down to the lower hipline if it is necessary. I would like you to post your measurements here then I will be able to help you more.
In the skirt sewing video lesson, you will be able to cut and sew a skirt with waistband and lining. You will be able to apply this lesson to your full figure pattern.
This is the forth attempt I draft the skirt block pattern but I am unable to proceed as I still can not make the total upper hip pattern measurement larger than my half upper hip circumference measurement.( the difference is 2.2cm) by following your advice.
I realised that as the length of the darts becomes more, the difference becomes less. I could not extend the darts beyond 7 cm because the centre line of the back dart would fall on the upper hip line.
I would appreacite very much if you could enlighten me on this matter.
It seams that my 2nd post has not reached you.I was waiting for your reply. Here I am resending my last post to you.
Thankyou very much for your reply to my queries. I am also sorry for not clearly presenting my problem about the front part. My saree blouse is closely fitted to bra on centre front and on midriff line. In my draft I have trasferred the side bust dart to the midriff dart. The centre front dart is given to remove the gap between the saree blouse and the bra. In turn the centre front line of bra and the centre front line of the blouse will sit closer. I find excess cloth at the midriff dart also, so to make it fitted to the body I have to increase the midriff dart also. Now my problem is to decide how much extra dart intake should be added to the midriff dart and what should be the amount of centre front dart according the bra cup size? I am also confused about what to do with the shoulder dart. Should I draft the back without the shoulder dart? Please help me.
You are welcome. I took a closer look at the pictures posted on your site. It looks like the bicep depth is too short on the sleeve. If you watch and apply the techniques I show in the Sleeve Block Pattern Making (Set -In) Video Lesson you will be able to solve this fitting problem.
If you want you can also include side bust darts in your patterns to get a better fitting garment around the armhole and side seam as well. You can watch the Bodice Block Pattern Making Video Lesson for this.
Welcome to our site. To practice sewing I suggest a plain, light color, %100 woven cotton fabric, in a medium weight. Your thread can be a good quality cotton or polyester. Gutermann makes very good quality threads. Use sharp needles for hand stitching on woven fabric. Best thing to do is to buy different size needles and test them on your fabric.
For sewing machines, a finer needle works best on light weight fabric, the same with the thread. For heavier fabric like denim, use larger needles, with thicker threads.
When you want to purchase needle and thread for your fabric, you can take your fabric with you and show the retailer to get specific advice for your type fabric.
If you are using the muslin to do a test of your pattern, you just need to press it with steam. This way after joining the pieces together pressing will not affect the fit of the muslin. However if you plan to wear the muslin, you should be pre shrinking it.
You don't allways need to have 2 cm intakes for the back darts, this varies according to the fit of the garment. In this case you can decrease the intake of the back darts if you want it to be less fitted or a bit more loose.
You can improve the back of the dress by moving the widest part of the back darts a little higher and as I mentioned above, decreasing the intake as well.
Usually women's garments that do not have side bust darts have excess fabric above the waistline on the back, which hangs down similar to the back of your garment.
It looks like that your garment does not have side bust darts, or any cuts where a bust dart can be transferred to.
If you are willing to spend more time adjusting your garment to make it fit better, I have posted a video lesson that has a chapter on how to create side bust darts Sweater Remodelling Video Lesson.
I applied the same method on another dress which has thicker denim like fabric. I basted two-2cm darts on the front, and two-2cm darts on the back. The back darts have the same measurements you mentioned. The front darts end 3-4 cm below bust points and run 10cm bellow waistline. However, the final shape doesn't look nice from the back. There is bulk in the middle of the back darts. I want a smooth crurve on the back but still loose fitted because this garment is supposed to be modest and not too close and shaping of the body. It has no center back seam. I drew the back darts 20 cm apart. Please see pictures and advise!
This makes sense now! I was getting frustrated because my waistline looked curved at the back and I kept trying to force the ribbon to get straight!!! But now I know :)
So I did add two 2cm darts and the gown now looks so much better. I'm very proud of myself thanks to your instructions. I wanted to attach a picture for you to see but the system doesn't give me the option to upload a photo in this reply! There is an "Image Picker" at the bottom but the box is empty with no functions!
I would also like to ask you something,for the dresses we are making somehow the sleeves are not fitting well. When I wear them the sleeves are getting twisted not falling free. Could you help me with the solution.
Dear Msethe,
It is possible to learn and be able to sew a dress by hand in about a month without any prior experience. With enough dedication you will be able to do this. I suggest watching and practicing the sewing essentials and garment sewing lessons to learn and get some ideas on how to sew this dress.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sea_cheles,
If your do not have a hemmer foot, you can sew rolled hem by hand, Here is a link to the lesson where I show how to do this: Rolled Hem Sewing Video Lesson.
Another option is to sew a very narrow double folded hem using your standard presser foot.
If you want to do this by machine, sew a row of stitches with a matching thread color along the edge of your fabric, while aligning the edge of the fabric with the right side of the presser foot. This stitch line should be parallel with the raw edge of your fabric. Now place a piece of masking tape on the needle plate, 5 mm from the right side of the presser foot and parallel to it.
Now sew another stitch line with a contrasting color and longer stitches and lower tension, since you will be removing this later. Now trim from the raw edge leaving about 4 mm distance to the first stitch line. Next fold along the first stitch line and hand baste to keep the fold in place (you can sew by machine using a matching color if your want). Now you have the first fold.
Now fold again along the contrasting machine stitch line and baste by hand, to keep the double fold in place. Finish by sewing the double fold by machine along the inner folded edge. Now you can remove the contrasting machine threads and hand basting then press.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Jsee,
Thanks for posting your measurements. I drafted a pattern with the measurements you gave, and since we don't want the waist darts to be too long and reach the lower hipline, I suggest that you convert each of the front and back waist darts into two.
The Skirt Sewing from a Pattern Video Lesson will show you how to do this in chapters 3 and 4.
You can also lengthen the center back dart by about 2 cm.
Once you draft the second sets of waist darts on the front and back patterns, then you extend all the center lines of your waist darts and move the dart points down until the upper hipline on your pattern is smaller than half of your upper hip circumference. You may need to make the new waist darts almost the same length as the first waist darts to achieve this.
Another option is to make your dart legs curve a bit outwards especially on the back pattern, this way you will not need to lengthen your darts too much. Especially if the buttocks protrude more than usual.
I hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you very much for your prompt reply.
The measurements :
Waist Circumference = 66.5cm
Lower Hip Circumference =89.5cm ; Lower Hip Length = 21cm
Upper Hip Circumference =78cm ; Upper Hip Length =10.5 cm
Bust Distance = 16cm
Hopefully, I can proceed after this.
Yours sincerely,
jschan_123
Thank you Nehzat. This would be of great help.
Happy sewing!!
Serah.
I just finished my first knit garment using all my machines. I am now over my fear of my Janome cover stitch.
I made up vogue 8825 faux wrap dress. Was fun to work with a knit as I have only ever worked with wovens.
Easy pattern. Beautiful results.
Have more knit patterns for tops and dresses to do. Next project is a cape.
THANK YOU, SO MUCH for the diagrams I look forward to using them!!!!!
Sandra Taylor
Hi everyone,
We have just added the Pattern Diagrams for the Bodice Block Pattern Making, Straight and Tapered Skirt Block Pattern Making and the Pants Block Pattern Making Video Lessons. The Diagrams are posted on each lesson page below the lesson description. The Full Figure Skirt Block Pattern and the Sleeve Block Patterns will be released soon.
You will be able to print these pattern diagrams and the measurements you will need on one sheet or view them on line by clicking on the diagram image.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jschan_123,
The center line of the waist darts can reach down to the lower hipline if it is necessary. I would like you to post your measurements here then I will be able to help you more.
Nehzat
Dear Cyndi,
In the skirt sewing video lesson, you will be able to cut and sew a skirt with waistband and lining. You will be able to apply this lesson to your full figure pattern.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Michele,
Welcome to our site. I am sure that with the help of our videos you will be able to so garments that will fit you well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Commie,
Welcome to our site. I hope that you will benefit from our videos and share your work with us.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat,
This is the forth attempt I draft the skirt block pattern but I am unable to proceed as I still can not make the total upper hip pattern measurement larger than my half upper hip circumference measurement.( the difference is 2.2cm) by following your advice.
I realised that as the length of the darts becomes more, the difference becomes less. I could not extend the darts beyond 7 cm because the centre line of the back dart would fall on the upper hip line.
I would appreacite very much if you could enlighten me on this matter.
Thank you very much for your patience.
Yours sincerely,
jschan_123
Thank you Nehzat, would try this.
Regards
Serah.
Dear Nehzat,
It seams that my 2nd post has not reached you.I was waiting for your reply. Here I am resending my last post to you.
Thankyou very much for your reply to my queries. I am also sorry for not clearly presenting my problem about the front part. My saree blouse is closely fitted to bra on centre front and on midriff line. In my draft I have trasferred the side bust dart to the midriff dart. The centre front dart is given to remove the gap between the saree blouse and the bra. In turn the centre front line of bra and the centre front line of the blouse will sit closer. I find excess cloth at the midriff dart also, so to make it fitted to the body I have to increase the midriff dart also. Now my problem is to decide how much extra dart intake should be added to the midriff dart and what should be the amount of centre front dart according the bra cup size? I am also confused about what to do with the shoulder dart. Should I draft the back without the shoulder dart? Please help me.
Dear Serah,
You are welcome. I took a closer look at the pictures posted on your site. It looks like the bicep depth is too short on the sleeve. If you watch and apply the techniques I show in the Sleeve Block Pattern Making (Set -In) Video Lesson you will be able to solve this fitting problem.
If you want you can also include side bust darts in your patterns to get a better fitting garment around the armhole and side seam as well. You can watch the Bodice Block Pattern Making Video Lesson for this.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Venus,
Welcome to our site. To practice sewing I suggest a plain, light color, %100 woven cotton fabric, in a medium weight. Your thread can be a good quality cotton or polyester. Gutermann makes very good quality threads. Use sharp needles for hand stitching on woven fabric. Best thing to do is to buy different size needles and test them on your fabric.
For sewing machines, a finer needle works best on light weight fabric, the same with the thread. For heavier fabric like denim, use larger needles, with thicker threads.
When you want to purchase needle and thread for your fabric, you can take your fabric with you and show the retailer to get specific advice for your type fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Kate,
If you are using the muslin to do a test of your pattern, you just need to press it with steam. This way after joining the pieces together pressing will not affect the fit of the muslin. However if you plan to wear the muslin, you should be pre shrinking it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear enasokab,
You don't allways need to have 2 cm intakes for the back darts, this varies according to the fit of the garment. In this case you can decrease the intake of the back darts if you want it to be less fitted or a bit more loose.
You can improve the back of the dress by moving the widest part of the back darts a little higher and as I mentioned above, decreasing the intake as well.
Usually women's garments that do not have side bust darts have excess fabric above the waistline on the back, which hangs down similar to the back of your garment.
It looks like that your garment does not have side bust darts, or any cuts where a bust dart can be transferred to.
If you are willing to spend more time adjusting your garment to make it fit better, I have posted a video lesson that has a chapter on how to create side bust darts Sweater Remodelling Video Lesson.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hello Again,
I applied the same method on another dress which has thicker denim like fabric. I basted two-2cm darts on the front, and two-2cm darts on the back. The back darts have the same measurements you mentioned. The front darts end 3-4 cm below bust points and run 10cm bellow waistline. However, the final shape doesn't look nice from the back. There is bulk in the middle of the back darts. I want a smooth crurve on the back but still loose fitted because this garment is supposed to be modest and not too close and shaping of the body. It has no center back seam. I drew the back darts 20 cm apart. Please see pictures and advise!
This makes sense now! I was getting frustrated because my waistline looked curved at the back and I kept trying to force the ribbon to get straight!!! But now I know :)
Yeah!!! Thank you Nehzat! I'm looking everyday!
Thank you Nehzat, happy to see your reply.
I would also like to ask you something,for the dresses we are making somehow the sleeves are not fitting well. When I wear them the sleeves are getting twisted not falling free. Could you help me with the solution.
Thanks
Serah.
Thanks Nehzat, you are always so helpful. I am so excited about the diagrams!
Barbra Ann
Dear poppop,
I suggest that you also lower the top thread and or bobbin thread tensions on you machine to see if it makes any difference.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat