Thank you so much. As the patterns are block patterns we do not add any ease to the body measurements when drafting them. Once you have your block pattern you can test it's fit by using muslin. Then you can let out at the seams and darts as much as you like. Then do another fitting and adjust your pattern accordingly. Make sure to adjust the seam allowances if you make any changes.
You can watch the two chapters below from the (Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt... Video lesson) to get an idea of what I mean.
I created my bodice pattern blocks. I want to add some ease at the sides(at the armhole). Let's say i want to ad 1 cm to each side (at intersection of side and armhole). This means I will extend my armhole as well with 1 cm. Now, should I lower the shoulder line with the same amount(1cm)? When i tried the muslin I felt like i need to lift up a bit from the shoulder. Thank you very much for helping me with this.
When taking measurements, do you inlcude ease as well? I have noticed you draw the pattern with the "raw" measurements. When do i need to ad th easy and how much? Thanks.
Thank you so much, I am very happy to know of your success.
I started to learn how to sew from my own mother at age four. We are six sisters and my mother would always sew our garments. My mother would sew very precisely and patiently. She also embellish her work beautifully. In our family both from my mothers side and fathers side there were a lot of sewers and crafters, so I learned a lot of what I know by watching and being thought by them. Whenever some one was sewing, knitting or crocheting, I would be glued to that person, sometimes for hours without getting bored. I was always so excited to watch them. One of my moms sisters had a sewing institute where she thought pattern making and sewing. I learned a lot from her as well.
My fathers brother was a technician at a company, commissioned to sell Pfaff sewing machines. He developed special parts for the machines. Sometimes he would bring his work home, when he was designing and testing new parts. Whenever we visited his family I would be watching him work. He would teach me how sewing machines functioned.
Sewing was my hobby for many years, later I studied fine arts (design and sculpture) in Italy. This also helped me with my understanding of human anatomy, and allowed me to improve my pattern making and sewing skills. Later on, sewing became my job for many years as well.
The secret to success in sewing is practice and time, just like anything else.
I will be making video lessons in the future covering how to draft patterns for children. In the mean time you can draft your own pattern using the same techniques that I use in the pattern making videos, except you don't need to draw the side but darts. The back of the neckline should be lowered only 1 cm instead of two along the top of the center back line. The shoulder slope on the front pattern should be lowered by 1.5 cm, instead of 3 cm. On the back pattern the shoulder slope should be lowered by 2 cm, instead of four. Since the bodice on a three year old child is about half the length of an adult.
I suggest that you sew the outfit using muslin first, to check the fit.
In the Sweater Remodeling video lesson, chapter 16, I mentioned "Since the sleeve is larger than the armhole, basting by hand will evenly distribute the excess sleeve fabric along the armhole opening".
In chapter 11, when we measure the top of the sleeve and the top of the arm cap, we notice that the sleeve is 2 cm larger. This is the way it should be, as the top of sleeves are always larger than the armhole. This excess will allow the sleeve to fall nicely when the sweater is worn. For sweaters, 2 cm is a good difference. Half of this difference will go on the front and half on the back of the armhole.
So the sleeve will have 1 cm of ease on the front and 1 cm of ease on the back.
Since we are marking about the half way point on the armholes (10 cm down) from the shoulder seam, we should mark the half way point on the sleeve at 10.5 cm. This way the difference is evenly distributed on the front and back of each armhole.
In this case, since our fabric is knitted it is easier to work with when easing, so we don't need to gather it first.
When joining the sleeve to the armhole on woven fabric, it is better to sew two rows of machine stitch along the top of the sleeve cap and draw the threads to gather the fabric for the ease. This makes it easier to evenly distribute the excess fabric of the sleeve when joining it to the armhole. I recommend that you also watch the Jacket and Coat Alteration: Shoulder Shortening and Shoulder Pad Video Lesson especially Chapter 18.
You can add about 4 cm in total to the side seams, to make the bodice block pattern into a semi fitted one. Make sure to have wider seam allowances as well, incase you want to make it larger when you do the fitting.
Thank you so much for the kind words. I spoke with our technical team and they have corrected the problem. There was a linking issue with the chapter list of the lesson.
I suggest that you put on the dress. Then wear a belt around you waist. This is where the blue band will be positioned later on. The bottom section of the dress will be your future skirt.
The bottom edge of the belt is the seam line where you will be sewing the waistband to. Mark this line as you wear the belt, using a tailor's chalk. Remove the dress, smooth out this line, add your seam allowances and cut along this line.
Incase you want the skirt to be longer than when you wore the belt, you can add to the top before cutting.
To be able to guide you in the sewing process, can you please draw the bottom corner of the front of the jacket and email it to me, or select a picture from a style that you want to copy from the internet.
Either the needle thread tension and or the bobbin thread tension are loose. I suggest you tighten the needle thread tension a bit first and test it on a piece of fabric similar to your garment. Make small adjustments and test a few times to get a good result.
You may need to also adjust the bobbin thread tension, again make small adjustments every time.
It will help to use different thread colours for the needle and the bobbin threads, to be able to tell them apart when testing the thread tension. Make sure to use same type of thread as the one you are using on your garment.
I suggest that you purchase one standard and one serger (overlock) sewing machine. Since a serger can not replace a standard sewing machine. Sewing machines that are more than $300, are usually better quality.
Adding ease to a pattern depends on the taste of the person wearing the garment. So it is best to do fittings and let out accordingly. Then adjust the pattern according to the amount that was let out to get the fit that you like.
I was slightly disappointed that you did not suggest the enquirer to look through paatern drafting books which clearly states seam allowances used in the trade
I'm new here and a beginner at sewing and I am waiting for tutorials on sewing for little girls. I have 2 little granddaughters that I want to start sewing for. You did a great job on these little dresses. They are just adorable. I wish they had some for making PJ's etc. Anyway, very nice job on yours!!
In the sweater remodeling video, you basted the sleeves to the bodice by hand to, and I quote the video, " distribute the gathering evenly" through out the sleeve cap. When do you do that and when do you "gather or ease the fabric ONLY between the notches." I'm so confused.
Also, in the same video chapter 11. You drew a mark 10cm down on the front and back armholes, but on the sleeves you drew a mark that is 10.5 cm down from the top. How come the numbers don't match?
I have to say "Thank you" again Nehzat (I missed spelled you name in my last note, I'm sorry).
I usually use a cruve but I am not experience in there use so I will appreciate seeing how you use the curves. There are so many different kinds of curves it is hard to figure out which one to use. Thank you for your willingness to show us. Sandra Taylor
Dear Conita,
Thank you so much. As the patterns are block patterns we do not add any ease to the body measurements when drafting them. Once you have your block pattern you can test it's fit by using muslin. Then you can let out at the seams and darts as much as you like. Then do another fitting and adjust your pattern accordingly. Make sure to adjust the seam allowances if you make any changes.
You can watch the two chapters below from the (Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt... Video lesson) to get an idea of what I mean.
4. Styling the Front Dress Pattern
5. Styling the Back Dress Pattern
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Can you tell us how to find the diagrams you create...where will they be located and when, so I know where to check.
Thanks
Hi Nehzat,
I created my bodice pattern blocks. I want to add some ease at the sides(at the armhole). Let's say i want to ad 1 cm to each side (at intersection of side and armhole). This means I will extend my armhole as well with 1 cm. Now, should I lower the shoulder line with the same amount(1cm)? When i tried the muslin I felt like i need to lift up a bit from the shoulder. Thank you very much for helping me with this.
Conita
we will see it in due time!
Hi Nehzat,
When taking measurements, do you inlcude ease as well? I have noticed you draw the pattern with the "raw" measurements. When do i need to ad th easy and how much? Thanks.
Your tutorials are fantastic!
Thanks.
Conita
Dear Kaylan,
Welcome to our site. I am sure that using the metric system will make it simpler to draft patterns and help you in sewing as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Gabriella61,
Thanks for your feedback. I hope that you can learn all that you are interested in.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear phyllis44,
Thank you so much, I am very happy to know of your success.
I started to learn how to sew from my own mother at age four. We are six sisters and my mother would always sew our garments. My mother would sew very precisely and patiently. She also embellish her work beautifully. In our family both from my mothers side and fathers side there were a lot of sewers and crafters, so I learned a lot of what I know by watching and being thought by them. Whenever some one was sewing, knitting or crocheting, I would be glued to that person, sometimes for hours without getting bored. I was always so excited to watch them. One of my moms sisters had a sewing institute where she thought pattern making and sewing. I learned a lot from her as well.
My fathers brother was a technician at a company, commissioned to sell Pfaff sewing machines. He developed special parts for the machines. Sometimes he would bring his work home, when he was designing and testing new parts. Whenever we visited his family I would be watching him work. He would teach me how sewing machines functioned.
Sewing was my hobby for many years, later I studied fine arts (design and sculpture) in Italy. This also helped me with my understanding of human anatomy, and allowed me to improve my pattern making and sewing skills. Later on, sewing became my job for many years as well.
The secret to success in sewing is practice and time, just like anything else.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear ofelian,
Thanks for the suggestion, I will add it to our future lesson list.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear reliott62,
I will be making video lessons in the future covering how to draft patterns for children. In the mean time you can draft your own pattern using the same techniques that I use in the pattern making videos, except you don't need to draw the side but darts. The back of the neckline should be lowered only 1 cm instead of two along the top of the center back line. The shoulder slope on the front pattern should be lowered by 1.5 cm, instead of 3 cm. On the back pattern the shoulder slope should be lowered by 2 cm, instead of four. Since the bodice on a three year old child is about half the length of an adult.
I suggest that you sew the outfit using muslin first, to check the fit.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Please start with the pants drafting digram.
Thanks,
Barbra McFarland
Dear enasokab,
In the Sweater Remodeling video lesson, chapter 16, I mentioned "Since the sleeve is larger than the armhole, basting by hand will evenly distribute the excess sleeve fabric along the armhole opening".
In chapter 11, when we measure the top of the sleeve and the top of the arm cap, we notice that the sleeve is 2 cm larger. This is the way it should be, as the top of sleeves are always larger than the armhole. This excess will allow the sleeve to fall nicely when the sweater is worn. For sweaters, 2 cm is a good difference. Half of this difference will go on the front and half on the back of the armhole.
So the sleeve will have 1 cm of ease on the front and 1 cm of ease on the back.
Since we are marking about the half way point on the armholes (10 cm down) from the shoulder seam, we should mark the half way point on the sleeve at 10.5 cm. This way the difference is evenly distributed on the front and back of each armhole.
In this case, since our fabric is knitted it is easier to work with when easing, so we don't need to gather it first.
When joining the sleeve to the armhole on woven fabric, it is better to sew two rows of machine stitch along the top of the sleeve cap and draw the threads to gather the fabric for the ease. This makes it easier to evenly distribute the excess fabric of the sleeve when joining it to the armhole. I recommend that you also watch the Jacket and Coat Alteration: Shoulder Shortening and Shoulder Pad Video Lesson especially Chapter 18.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Liz,
You can add about 4 cm in total to the side seams, to make the bodice block pattern into a semi fitted one. Make sure to have wider seam allowances as well, incase you want to make it larger when you do the fitting.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Denese,
Thank you so much for the kind words. I spoke with our technical team and they have corrected the problem. There was a linking issue with the chapter list of the lesson.
I appreciate you letting us know.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear enasokab,
I suggest that you put on the dress. Then wear a belt around you waist. This is where the blue band will be positioned later on. The bottom section of the dress will be your future skirt.
The bottom edge of the belt is the seam line where you will be sewing the waistband to. Mark this line as you wear the belt, using a tailor's chalk. Remove the dress, smooth out this line, add your seam allowances and cut along this line.
Incase you want the skirt to be longer than when you wore the belt, you can add to the top before cutting.
Hope this helps you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear shopperl,
To be able to guide you in the sewing process, can you please draw the bottom corner of the front of the jacket and email it to me, or select a picture from a style that you want to copy from the internet.
Please email me at support@esewingworkshop.com
Nehzat
Dear WISEMANLADY,
Either the needle thread tension and or the bobbin thread tension are loose. I suggest you tighten the needle thread tension a bit first and test it on a piece of fabric similar to your garment. Make small adjustments and test a few times to get a good result.
You may need to also adjust the bobbin thread tension, again make small adjustments every time.
It will help to use different thread colours for the needle and the bobbin threads, to be able to tell them apart when testing the thread tension. Make sure to use same type of thread as the one you are using on your garment.
Please let me know if this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Natalie123,
I suggest that you purchase one standard and one serger (overlock) sewing machine. Since a serger can not replace a standard sewing machine. Sewing machines that are more than $300, are usually better quality.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear nearbear,
This is a topic that we will be covering in a future lesson.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Orlando24,
Adding ease to a pattern depends on the taste of the person wearing the garment. So it is best to do fittings and let out accordingly. Then adjust the pattern according to the amount that was let out to get the fit that you like.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I was slightly disappointed that you did not suggest the enquirer to look through paatern drafting books which clearly states seam allowances used in the trade
I'm new here and a beginner at sewing and I am waiting for tutorials on sewing for little girls. I have 2 little granddaughters that I want to start sewing for. You did a great job on these little dresses. They are just adorable. I wish they had some for making PJ's etc. Anyway, very nice job on yours!!
These will be extremely helpful, as I've been trying to take notes and all, but it was too much for me.
Hi Nehzat,
In the sweater remodeling video, you basted the sleeves to the bodice by hand to, and I quote the video, " distribute the gathering evenly" through out the sleeve cap. When do you do that and when do you "gather or ease the fabric ONLY between the notches." I'm so confused.
Also, in the same video chapter 11. You drew a mark 10cm down on the front and back armholes, but on the sleeves you drew a mark that is 10.5 cm down from the top. How come the numbers don't match?
Thanks
I have to say "Thank you" again Nehzat (I missed spelled you name in my last note, I'm sorry).
I usually use a cruve but I am not experience in there use so I will appreciate seeing how you use the curves. There are so many different kinds of curves it is hard to figure out which one to use. Thank you for your willingness to show us. Sandra Taylor