I believe that you measured the leg length more than it actually is. Please watch the video and follow the instructions for how to take the measurements again. This way you will know which measurement to correct.
Beside a sewing machine, you will need to purchase these basic items. A good pair of medium and large scissors, pins, different size needles for the sewing machine and for hand sewing, measuring tape, a thimble, ruler, a triangle ruler, pattern paper if you plan to draft your own patterns.
To get the most out of your dress form, I suggest buying one that is closest to your size and has collapsible shoulders. This way you can practice sewing for yourself and improve your sewing. You can search online to see what is available in your country. Watch the Skirt Block Pattern Making Video Lesson to get an idea for what the dress form should look like. I am very happy with that particular dress form.
I tried making kurta on muslin fabric and observed that by not taking the waist dart it is very loose. If I take the waist dart it looks perfect fit. Now in order to take the waist dart how should I calculate the waist dart - my hips are 43 and waist is 36 left with 7 inches, does this mean that each dart is 1 and 3/4 inches. Doing this does not appear to be very neat. What am I doing wrong. Please explain and thanks.
Thanks so much. To make the kurta without a zipper or any waist darts, you need to align the straight center back line of the pattern with the fold line of your fabric. This means that you ignore the center back dart of the pattern.
You also ignore the front and back pattern waist darts when you sew the garment. If you are sewing a women's kurta I suggest that you sew the side bust dart to make it fall nicely without any ripples.
Since you are not sewing in a zipper on the center back or the sides, you need to add some ease on the front and back pattern side seams so that the garment can be worn easily. On the front pattern make sure to close the side bust dart and tape it in place. Then add a few cm to the top of the side seam and also extend the hemline out by the amount you like at the side seam and connect the marks for both the front and back patterns.
To give you a better idea, I will give you an example of the changes that are required to the pattern in order to style it as a loose fitting A line dress or (kurta).
After closing the side bust dart on the front pattern. Extend the armhole out at the top of the side seam by 1 cm on the front pattern.
On the front pattern extend the hemline of the skirt out by 5 cm. (here we are using the straight skirt block pattern) Connect the marks. This will be the new side seam for the front pattern.
On the back pattern extend the armhole line out at the top of the side seam by 1 cm like the front pattern.
The hemline should be extended by 5 cm plus the distance between the straight center back line and the center back dart line, level with the bottom of the back pattern armhole. This could be a small amount of just a few mm. Measure this distance. Lets say it is 4 mm. So for the back pattern you need to extend the hemline out by (5 cm + 4 mm = 5.4 cm) Doing this will ensure that the front and back pattern side seams will have the same angle and length.
Since the side seams are at an angle they will hang lower and will not give you an even hemline. To fix this, first extend the lower hipline and cross the new side seams on both patterns.
Then, measure the distance from the center back or center front lower hipline down to the hemline. What ever this distance is, you need to measure and mark it from the lower hiplines on the new side seams for both patterns.
You will see that the mark falls a bit higher than the hemline. This is what we want. Draw a curved line from the new mark merging it gradually with the previous hemline, at the previous side seam. Do this for both patterns.
Then you add the seam allowances. Make sure that the front side bust dart is closed when you do this. When you want to place the patterns on the fabric, open the side bust dart on the front pattern so the pattern lays flat on the fabric.
Make sure to test the pattern on muslin before cutting your main fabric.
Thanks for the kind words. If the neckline is open both on the front and back the shoulders might not stay in place. When the fabric is stretchy the shoulders may stay in place, however on woven fabrics the shoulder tend slip off. You can still keep the same style, but sew lingerie guards to keep the shoulders in place. You can use a ribbon or a thread chain which you can make yourself. One end is sewn in place on the armhole side, the other end is fastened using small snaps. This will also serve to keep the bra straps hidden.
We are planning to release collar video lessons in the near future.
To figure out the amount you need to add for the bust dart, you can compare the protrusion of the bust on the dress form that i am using compared to yours. for this particular one I added 1.5 cm. Here is a rough guide to help you based on cup sizes, not bust circumference. Because someone may have a large bust circumference but a flatter chest. In this situation the bust circumference does not reflect the protrusion of the breasts.
Welcome to our site, for this type of fabric and the style of dress you mentioned, I would suggest either a square, scoop or a v-neckline. This would depend on your own preference.
Since both the bias binding and the knitted fabric stretch, you need to figure out how long the binding should be for the edge you are sewing it to.
If the garment gathers by the binding, you are stretching the binding too much as you are joining it to the garment. In this case the binding will curl as well.
If the binding gathers, it means that you are stretching the edge of the garment too much as you are joining it to the binding.
To get the right length for the bias tape, I suggest you place the bias tape flat on the table, measure and mark 20 cm on it using thread, without stretching it. Next place the garment flat on the table, measure and mark 22 cm on it the same way. Then mark the middle of the tape and the section on the garment. Next pin the ends and the mid points together, then in between. Now sew the two together and see the result.
If you like this result, that means that you need to continue and sew the rest using the same proportions. Otherwise you need to adjust the proportions by decreasing or increasing the length of the bias tape for the same length of garment edge.
Lets say our example is the right proportion. To calculate the length of bias tape you will need to measure the edge of your garment first. Lets say it is 60 cm. We know that you need 20 cm of tape for every 22 cm of garment edge. The equation looks like this:
You can use this formula to calculate the bias tape length based on your own proportions.
There are different styles of cowl back garments. Please if you can email or post the picture of the dress you want to sew here. This way I can give you specific directions on how to style your block pattern.
I am currently working on {Panel dress making} video lesson. Would like to know if we could transfer the pattern on fabric using tracing wheel? Is it possible?
The video lessons on how to take measurements applies to both men's and women's garments. Even though the are some physical differences you still need to take the measurements in the same areas.
For sewing denim pants you can follow the pants block pattern video lesson, then style it according to the style that you are interested in.
Could you please provide a picture of the jacket, specifically in the shoulder area and one from the entire back. This way I can see the jacket an give you the
I believe you are making a tube top, without shoulders. If your fabric is knitted you can eliminate the side bust darts. But if the fabric is woven you need to have bust darts drafted on your pattern, then you can transfer the intake above the bust. Here is a video that explains how to do this.
You will need to draft the pattern according to the measurements you have, if the person's waist circumference is smaller than their bust circumference you will be able to get the shape you are talking about.
We are planning to make a video lesson covering sewing blind hems by machine, in the mean time you can search on YouTube to get a quick how to explanation.
Dear Joyce3014,
I believe that you measured the leg length more than it actually is. Please watch the video and follow the instructions for how to take the measurements again. This way you will know which measurement to correct.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Glenna,
You will need to sew the lining a bit smaller than the shell. This way it will not bunch up inside your bag.
Here is a link where I answered a similar question (Lining a Bag). Please read further down as I explain the procedure in detail there.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear CoolVi,
Thanks so much for the kind words.
Beside a sewing machine, you will need to purchase these basic items. A good pair of medium and large scissors, pins, different size needles for the sewing machine and for hand sewing, measuring tape, a thimble, ruler, a triangle ruler, pattern paper if you plan to draft your own patterns.
To get the most out of your dress form, I suggest buying one that is closest to your size and has collapsible shoulders. This way you can practice sewing for yourself and improve your sewing. You can search online to see what is available in your country. Watch the Skirt Block Pattern Making Video Lesson to get an idea for what the dress form should look like. I am very happy with that particular dress form.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Erica,
Welcome to our site. I hope that you will benefit from our videos and reach your goal.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
I tried making kurta on muslin fabric and observed that by not taking the waist dart it is very loose. If I take the waist dart it looks perfect fit. Now in order to take the waist dart how should I calculate the waist dart - my hips are 43 and waist is 36 left with 7 inches, does this mean that each dart is 1 and 3/4 inches. Doing this does not appear to be very neat. What am I doing wrong. Please explain and thanks.
Many thanks for the prompt response.
Regards
Rozmina
Dear Rozmina,
Thanks so much. To make the kurta without a zipper or any waist darts, you need to align the straight center back line of the pattern with the fold line of your fabric. This means that you ignore the center back dart of the pattern.
You also ignore the front and back pattern waist darts when you sew the garment. If you are sewing a women's kurta I suggest that you sew the side bust dart to make it fall nicely without any ripples.
Since you are not sewing in a zipper on the center back or the sides, you need to add some ease on the front and back pattern side seams so that the garment can be worn easily. On the front pattern make sure to close the side bust dart and tape it in place. Then add a few cm to the top of the side seam and also extend the hemline out by the amount you like at the side seam and connect the marks for both the front and back patterns.
To give you a better idea, I will give you an example of the changes that are required to the pattern in order to style it as a loose fitting A line dress or (kurta).
Make sure to test the pattern on muslin before cutting your main fabric.
I hope this explains it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear lightprince4u
Thanks for the kind words. If the neckline is open both on the front and back the shoulders might not stay in place. When the fabric is stretchy the shoulders may stay in place, however on woven fabrics the shoulder tend slip off. You can still keep the same style, but sew lingerie guards to keep the shoulders in place. You can use a ribbon or a thread chain which you can make yourself. One end is sewn in place on the armhole side, the other end is fastened using small snaps. This will also serve to keep the bra straps hidden.
We are planning to release collar video lessons in the near future.
To figure out the amount you need to add for the bust dart, you can compare the protrusion of the bust on the dress form that i am using compared to yours. for this particular one I added 1.5 cm. Here is a rough guide to help you based on cup sizes, not bust circumference. Because someone may have a large bust circumference but a flatter chest. In this situation the bust circumference does not reflect the protrusion of the breasts.
For A cups we add about 0 cm to 0.5 cm
For B cups we add about 0.5 cm to 1 cm
For C cups we add about 1 cm to 2 cm
For D cups we add about 2 cm to 2.5 cm
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear namacu,
Welcome to our site, for this type of fabric and the style of dress you mentioned, I would suggest either a square, scoop or a v-neckline. This would depend on your own preference.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Troy,
Since both the bias binding and the knitted fabric stretch, you need to figure out how long the binding should be for the edge you are sewing it to.
If the garment gathers by the binding, you are stretching the binding too much as you are joining it to the garment. In this case the binding will curl as well.
If the binding gathers, it means that you are stretching the edge of the garment too much as you are joining it to the binding.
To get the right length for the bias tape, I suggest you place the bias tape flat on the table, measure and mark 20 cm on it using thread, without stretching it. Next place the garment flat on the table, measure and mark 22 cm on it the same way. Then mark the middle of the tape and the section on the garment. Next pin the ends and the mid points together, then in between. Now sew the two together and see the result.
If you like this result, that means that you need to continue and sew the rest using the same proportions. Otherwise you need to adjust the proportions by decreasing or increasing the length of the bias tape for the same length of garment edge.
Lets say our example is the right proportion. To calculate the length of bias tape you will need to measure the edge of your garment first. Lets say it is 60 cm. We know that you need 20 cm of tape for every 22 cm of garment edge. The equation looks like this:
You can use this formula to calculate the bias tape length based on your own proportions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear kaydee,
There are different styles of cowl back garments. Please if you can email or post the picture of the dress you want to sew here. This way I can give you specific directions on how to style your block pattern.
You can email the picture to info@esewingworkshop.com, I will then post the picture here.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Greta,
Thanks for your suggestion I have added this topic to my list for future lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Serah,
Yes you can transfer the pattern to your fabric using a tracing wheel.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you very much Nahzat!!........
Hi Nehzat,
I am currently working on {Panel dress making} video lesson. Would like to know if we could transfer the pattern on fabric using tracing wheel? Is it possible?
Thanks in advance.
Happy sewing!!
Best
Serah.
Thank you, very much, Serah.
Carol
Dear Lynn,
Thanks for your interest and kind words. We will make this video lesson in the near future.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Troy,
The video lessons on how to take measurements applies to both men's and women's garments. Even though the are some physical differences you still need to take the measurements in the same areas.
For sewing denim pants you can follow the pants block pattern video lesson, then style it according to the style that you are interested in.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear dwayne8650,
Could you please provide a picture of the jacket, specifically in the shoulder area and one from the entire back. This way I can see the jacket an give you the
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Lovely dress :)
Serah.
Thank you, so very much!
Carol
Nehzat,
I would also be very happy to see you do a lesson on making our own dress form. This is something I have been wanting to do very much!
I like this site very much and have learned a lot in the few days that I have been a subscriber. Thank you for providing such easy to follow lessons!
Lynn
I really like the contrasting band at the top of the bodice. It adds that extra punch. Great job.
Dear lightprince4u,
I believe you are making a tube top, without shoulders. If your fabric is knitted you can eliminate the side bust darts. But if the fabric is woven you need to have bust darts drafted on your pattern, then you can transfer the intake above the bust. Here is a video that explains how to do this.
You will need to draft the pattern according to the measurements you have, if the person's waist circumference is smaller than their bust circumference you will be able to get the shape you are talking about.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Raynea61,
We are planning to make a video lesson covering sewing blind hems by machine, in the mean time you can search on YouTube to get a quick how to explanation.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat