The reason we draft block patterns on paper is to give us the ability to have a very accurate measurement of the body on paper. The block pattern is a basic fitted pattern that we can then use as a basis for many different styles. Once you make a block pattern for yourself or some one else, you are sure that the garment you are cutting and sewing will fit.
This way of sewing a garment has several advantages over other techniques. A few of these advantages are that you will spend less time adjusting the garment as you sew, you will save on fabric and time and need to do less fitting as well. Because of these benefits you can start a project confidently and be relaxed and enjoy the process of sewing the garment.
If your draped pattern is symmetrical on the front and back, you can put the pieces on the fold of the fabric and cut your garment pieces out.
Thanks for your suggestions. We are going to make a video on sleeve block pattern making and then followed by a blouse with sleeves. All of our video lessons will include step by step instructions so that you can get a better understanding and results as well.
Yes you can use interfacing for fabric that is cut on a bias as long as you cut your interfacing on a bias as well.
To check the fit of the bodysuit you can leave one of the seams open. The one that will let you put the bodysuit on the dress form easier. Mark the seam line on both sides of the seam that you left open. This way once you have it on the dress form you know where to pin to check the fit. Fold one side of the seam along the stitch mark and place it on the other side, aligning the folded edge with the other sides stitch mark, and pin.
Since every 1 cm on a ruler or a measuring tape is divided into 10 equally distant sections, we need to round up or down to get only one digit after the decimal point, so that we can measure and mark our distance down.
24.3 cm is or equals 24 cm and 3 mm
24.1 cm to 24.9 cm can be easily measured and marked by looking at the millimeter marks on our measuring device.
If there is a second digit after the decimal point i.e. (24.25) we need to round it up or down to the closest decimal to make it easier to measure and mark.
Usually if the second decimal is 5 or more than 5 we round the number up. So 24.25 or 24.26 or 24.27 or 24.28 or 24.29 will be rounded up to 24.3 cm, but if the number was 24.24 or 24.23 or 24.22 or 24.21 we would round the number down to 24.2 cm.
I have tried front bodice pattern and it turned out quite well. I would like to know if i want the bodice to be till hip length not waist length, what could be done? Is it possible to increase that in pattern that you have shown?
I am planning to make a top using the pattern, and i would like to increase the length of the top to below waist length or till hip length.
Just as a follow-up...I'm currently working on this project now...I want the front bow to stand up and hold its shape. I was going to use a heavy fusible interfacing for that. Can I still use interfacing with fabric that's been cut on the bias?
Also, I've just begun to cut out the pattern pieces for the spandex bodysuit. I plan on pinning them to the dress form to check fit, but how do I put the suit back on the dress form once everything has been stitched up without stretching it out too much?
This might seem like such a silly question but why do we even need to make paper block patterns?
I know in general that the basic pattern you can make on muslin or paper to cut fabric correct? But why do we need to mark all those points on paper? Also, your videos are very specific about the measurements but I'm not sure how those measurements could apply to everyone?
Another question i have is why do we draft and drape a bodice? I have successfully draped a front and back half bodice (half pieces) but I'm not sure why I did that and what do we use it for? Do we copy the other two and just connect them??
I had to do much the same as you with my Dritz. I added a bustier and found it easier for me to get the size I need in the bust and abdomen. So after all that work did you give her a name?
I call my body double Lucy. She is the stark reminder of my body changes since I turned 50.
Hi Lucy see you have a space all set up for your projects. I am in process of setting up my sewing room and can't wait till I can fill the room with the sound of sewing machines.
Yes you will need to draft the pattern as it is shown on the site. Then tape the darts closed. Next you measure and mark below the waistline by the amount you like. Mark about every 2.5 cm apart to help you draw the line easily.
Then you need to measure along the new waistline to draft the waistband pattern that fits your low rise pants.
Make sure to add the seam allowance above the new waistline that you lowered.
I really like the fabric you are using for this jacket. Is this a purchased pattern or did you draft the pattern? Will check back to see you finished jacket.
Thanks so much. To cut the bodice block pattern, first you can add the seam allowances to your pattern.
You can add, between 1.3 to 1.5 cm for the neckline seam allowance. Between 1.5 to 2 cm for the shoulder line. Between 1.3 to 1.5 for the armhole. 2.5 cm for the side seams and 2 to 2.5 cm for the waistline.
When you add the seam allowance to the front side seam, you need to close the side bust dart and tape it in place. Make sure the waist darts on the front and back, the side bust dart on the front and the shoulder dart on the back pattern are closed when you add the seam allowances and when you cut the pattern.
When you tape the darts closed. The intake of the front waist dart should lie towards the center front. The back waist dart intake should lie towards the center back. The intake of the side bust dart should lie towards the armhole. And the intake of the back shoulder dart should lie towards the neckline.
You can watch the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson, where I style and add seam allowances to the bodice block pattern section of the dress, to get a better idea.
Have seen the bodice block pattern making video, very interesting and informative. Do you have a video where we could see how to cut the bodice block pattern. As a beginner its bit confusing to do a proper cutting of bodice.
The basics for making a men's and women's pants block pattern are the same, you can use these patterns as a foundation to make different styles of pants.
After releasing the sleeve pattern video lesson we will work on styling a block pattern for a shirt and then sew a shirts as well.
Yes you can reduce the crotch extension. You need to reduce it a bit as I show Here. Do a test fitting using muslin, then make further reductions if you want.
The drafting of the armhole for the two piece sleeve requires some changes, since this is usually used for jackets and coats that need to be larger to accommodate other garments worn underneath.
After drafting the block pattern, we enlarge the pattern from the side seams , then widen the shoulder seams and the armpit lines from the armhole side and also increase the size of the armhole by lowering it along its bottom edge.
Natural fiber fabrics will loose their fold lines gradualy trough use. So we need to press them again. If we wash these fabrics all the fold lines my disappear.
Synthetic fiber fabrics tend to keep their folds better even after washing. The same with mix fabrics with synthetic and natural fibers.
Dear masi20082008,
The reason we draft block patterns on paper is to give us the ability to have a very accurate measurement of the body on paper. The block pattern is a basic fitted pattern that we can then use as a basis for many different styles. Once you make a block pattern for yourself or some one else, you are sure that the garment you are cutting and sewing will fit.
This way of sewing a garment has several advantages over other techniques. A few of these advantages are that you will spend less time adjusting the garment as you sew, you will save on fabric and time and need to do less fitting as well. Because of these benefits you can start a project confidently and be relaxed and enjoy the process of sewing the garment.
If your draped pattern is symmetrical on the front and back, you can put the pieces on the fold of the fabric and cut your garment pieces out.
Hope this explains this concepts to you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Fernando,
Thanks for your suggestions. We are going to make a video on sleeve block pattern making and then followed by a blouse with sleeves. All of our video lessons will include step by step instructions so that you can get a better understanding and results as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear LadyMoonShine,
Yes you can use interfacing for fabric that is cut on a bias as long as you cut your interfacing on a bias as well.
To check the fit of the bodysuit you can leave one of the seams open. The one that will let you put the bodysuit on the dress form easier. Mark the seam line on both sides of the seam that you left open. This way once you have it on the dress form you know where to pin to check the fit. Fold one side of the seam along the stitch mark and place it on the other side, aligning the folded edge with the other sides stitch mark, and pin.
Hope this helps you out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Donna,
Since every 1 cm on a ruler or a measuring tape is divided into 10 equally distant sections, we need to round up or down to get only one digit after the decimal point, so that we can measure and mark our distance down.
24.3 cm is or equals 24 cm and 3 mm
24.1 cm to 24.9 cm can be easily measured and marked by looking at the millimeter marks on our measuring device.
If there is a second digit after the decimal point i.e. (24.25) we need to round it up or down to the closest decimal to make it easier to measure and mark.
Usually if the second decimal is 5 or more than 5 we round the number up. So 24.25 or 24.26 or 24.27 or 24.28 or 24.29 will be rounded up to 24.3 cm, but if the number was 24.24 or 24.23 or 24.22 or 24.21 we would round the number down to 24.2 cm.
I hope this makes it clear for you,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
HI Nehzat,
I have tried front bodice pattern and it turned out quite well. I would like to know if i want the bodice to be till hip length not waist length, what could be done? Is it possible to increase that in pattern that you have shown?
I am planning to make a top using the pattern, and i would like to increase the length of the top to below waist length or till hip length.
Need help with the details.
Have a great day ahead.
Serah.
Just as a follow-up...I'm currently working on this project now...I want the front bow to stand up and hold its shape. I was going to use a heavy fusible interfacing for that. Can I still use interfacing with fabric that's been cut on the bias?
Also, I've just begun to cut out the pattern pieces for the spandex bodysuit. I plan on pinning them to the dress form to check fit, but how do I put the suit back on the dress form once everything has been stitched up without stretching it out too much?
Thank you. : )
Thank you Nehzat, will try this.
:) Serah(S)
Hey Nezhat,
This might seem like such a silly question but why do we even need to make paper block patterns?
I know in general that the basic pattern you can make on muslin or paper to cut fabric correct? But why do we need to mark all those points on paper? Also, your videos are very specific about the measurements but I'm not sure how those measurements could apply to everyone?
Another question i have is why do we draft and drape a bodice? I have successfully draped a front and back half bodice (half pieces) but I'm not sure why I did that and what do we use it for? Do we copy the other two and just connect them??
Thanks a million :) :)
Nice to meet you and I will be happy to share my sewing projects.
I had to do much the same as you with my Dritz. I added a bustier and found it easier for me to get the size I need in the bust and abdomen. So after all that work did you give her a name?
I call my body double Lucy. She is the stark reminder of my body changes since I turned 50.
Dear Scheri,
Welcome to our site, I hope that you will succeed in your upcoming projects and share you work with us.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Lucy see you have a space all set up for your projects. I am in process of setting up my sewing room and can't wait till I can fill the room with the sound of sewing machines.
Wow this is beautiful. I can't imagine the hours you spent on this. Did you draft your own pattern?
Dear vbaouy,
Yes you will need to draft the pattern as it is shown on the site. Then tape the darts closed. Next you measure and mark below the waistline by the amount you like. Mark about every 2.5 cm apart to help you draw the line easily.
Then you need to measure along the new waistline to draft the waistband pattern that fits your low rise pants.
Make sure to add the seam allowance above the new waistline that you lowered.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I really like the fabric you are using for this jacket. Is this a purchased pattern or did you draft the pattern? Will check back to see you finished jacket.
Dear vbaouy,
You can use the pants block pattern video lessons to sew jean pants after styling the pattern according to the style you like. Watch the pants block pattern styling videos as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Vbaouy,
For men you do not need the side bust dart. However if you are making a fitted top, then you might want to include all the other darts.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
You do need this curve, so that the waistline at the side seams will take the shape of the body.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear S,
Thanks so much. To cut the bodice block pattern, first you can add the seam allowances to your pattern.
You can add, between 1.3 to 1.5 cm for the neckline seam allowance. Between 1.5 to 2 cm for the shoulder line. Between 1.3 to 1.5 for the armhole. 2.5 cm for the side seams and 2 to 2.5 cm for the waistline.
When you add the seam allowance to the front side seam, you need to close the side bust dart and tape it in place. Make sure the waist darts on the front and back, the side bust dart on the front and the shoulder dart on the back pattern are closed when you add the seam allowances and when you cut the pattern.
When you tape the darts closed. The intake of the front waist dart should lie towards the center front. The back waist dart intake should lie towards the center back. The intake of the side bust dart should lie towards the armhole. And the intake of the back shoulder dart should lie towards the neckline.
You can watch the Panel Dress Sewing Video Lesson, where I style and add seam allowances to the bodice block pattern section of the dress, to get a better idea.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
HI Nehzat,
Have seen the bodice block pattern making video, very interesting and informative. Do you have a video where we could see how to cut the bodice block pattern. As a beginner its bit confusing to do a proper cutting of bodice.
Best
S.
Dear Ugochukwu,
The basics for making a men's and women's pants block pattern are the same, you can use these patterns as a foundation to make different styles of pants.
After releasing the sleeve pattern video lesson we will work on styling a block pattern for a shirt and then sew a shirts as well.
Here is a link to a standard measurement chart on Wikipedia.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
Yes you can reduce the crotch extension. You need to reduce it a bit as I show Here. Do a test fitting using muslin, then make further reductions if you want.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
The drafting of the armhole for the two piece sleeve requires some changes, since this is usually used for jackets and coats that need to be larger to accommodate other garments worn underneath.
After drafting the block pattern, we enlarge the pattern from the side seams , then widen the shoulder seams and the armpit lines from the armhole side and also increase the size of the armhole by lowering it along its bottom edge.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
Yes the bodice block pattern is the base for both dress shirts and T-shirts.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
Natural fiber fabrics will loose their fold lines gradualy trough use. So we need to press them again. If we wash these fabrics all the fold lines my disappear.
Synthetic fiber fabrics tend to keep their folds better even after washing. The same with mix fabrics with synthetic and natural fibers.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat