First you need to make sure that the bobbin is inserted the right way in the bobbin case. Then check that the bobbin case is inserted correctly in the hook race.
When you hold the needle thread and rotate the hand wheel, make sure that you are not holding the thread tightly. Otherwise the bobbin thread will not come up. Rotate the hand wheel until the needle is in its highest position again.
When the needle is in the highest position, pull up the needle thread to bring up the bobbin thread with it. Open the looped bobbin thread and place both threads under the presser foot towards the back.
Thanks so much. What you can do is separate the waistband from the waistline, passing the side seams by about 5 cm, or more as needed. Then take in from both side seam and the excess amount from the center back of the waistband. Baste everything and do a fitting before trimming any excess fabric.
If you plan to dry clean your garment you don't need to preshrink your fabric before sewing. For delicate fabric you can soak them in water and hang them to dry. If the fabric is stretchy, you can lay it flat on some towels and let it dry. you can change the towel to dry your fabric faster as well.
If your fabric gives off color, soak it in more water to avoid getting blotchy colors.
The fabric grain line is formed by the way a fabric is woven. These woven threads run lengthwise and crosswise to each other. The lengthwise grain lines run parallel to the salvage and the crosswise threads perpendicular to it.
Usually the length of garments runs along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric being used. Therefore the width of most garments runs along the crosswise grain line.
Generally fabrics stretch more along their cross grain, that's why we cut the length of garments along the length of fabrics to avoid stretching, when the garment is worn. Otherwise the garment would be uneven along its hemline. Stretching of the garment along its width when it is worn is ok, and will not affect the look of the garment.
Whether we buy ready made patterns or draft them ourselves, we need to have the lengthwise grain line marked on each piece of the pattern. This way we will know how to position the pattern correctly on the fabric. We need to make sure that the lengthwise grain line of the pattern is parallel to the salvage or the folded edge of the fabric which is also parallel to the salvage of the fabric.
Some garments need to be cut on a bias because of their style. These garments have a lengthwise grain line on their patterns which is at a 45 degree angle to center front and center back lines of the pattern.
In all the pattern making lesson I teach how to draw the lengthwise grain line.
I enjoy your videos very much and I'm learning a lot.I want to alter a pair of work/dress pants that I have but they are not the same type of pants featured in your video (side seams running up the waistband). My pants only have one seam running up the waistband and it's located in the centerback (I guess it's made more like a man's pants). How would I alter this type of pants to "take in" the waist?
Thanks Kate, I went and checked and sure enough I finally seen it. I had given up a long time ago and then I saw round wooden pin cushion in the new comments. (smile)
When you are using a ready made pattern you need to find out what your size is, by comparing your own measurements with what is written on the package. This way you will know which size you should use to cut the right size out.
If all your measurements are not a size 12, for example your hip measurement is size 14, you can draw a line from the waist area on size 12 and merge the line gradually with the size 14 in the hip area.
If your measurements are between two sizes, you can draw a new line between the two size lines to get the right measurement for your pattern.
Make sure to always use a different color so that your lines stand out.
Thanks so much. First you should also make sure that you have measured the waist circumference and the lower hip circumference correctly as well.
Still this kind of situation could occur for those who have are flatter between their waist and their lower hipline.
The solution here would be to extend the darts until the upper hipline of the pattern is just a bit less than half of the actual upper hip circumference.
Thanks so much. First you should also make sure that you have measured the waist circumference and the lower hip circumference correctly as well.
Still this kind of situation could occur for those who are flatter between their waist and their lower hipline.
The solution here would be to extend the darts until the upper hipline of the pattern is just a bit less than half of the actual upper hip circumference.
Hi, first of all I love the clarity of the video instructions. Having a problem though making the skirt patterm. When I add up the upper hip circumference it is larger than the actual upper hip measurement/2. I've tried doing this pattern three times. I thought maybe I'm not measuring the exact same place when I measure distances between lower hip and waist, so my upper hip distance is also off. The second time around, I tried having my sister help me measure. This time, the third time, I marked my body to make sure I'm measuring exactly from my waist to my hips. But every single time, the calculated upper hip circumference comes out to be bigger than the actual.
For this time, the difference was 2.8cm. I extended each dart by 2cm, and the difference went down to 2.1cm (so 1.05cm for each side seam). Any advice on this??
In the sewing machine essentials video lesson I explain how to use 3 different types of sewing machines. Your machine will be similar to one of these three. I suggest that you watch this lesson to learn how to use your machine.
Hi, first of all I love the clarity of the video instructions. But like atan, when I add up the upper hip circumference it is larger than the actual upper hip measurement/2. I've tried doing this pattern three times. I thought maybe I'm not measuring the exact same place when I measure distances between lower hip and waist, so my upper hip distance is also off. The second time around, I tried having my sister help me measure. This time, the third time, I marked my body to make sure I'm measuring exactly from my waist to my hips. But every single time, the calculated upper hip circumference comes out to be bigger than the actual.
For this time, the difference was 2.8cm. I extended each dart by 2cm, and the difference went down to 2.1cm (so 1.05cm for each side seam). Any advice on this??
These are goregous. Congratulations! I know how much work these are. Just three years ago I started making my girls rhythmic gymnastics costumes and enjoy it most of the time :) Beatrice
At the second fitting, since the pants looked good and you had done all the steps according to the video lesson, everything went okay. However if you feel that the angle of the slant was to steep for the hemline (the front was a lot higher than the back) then you can lower the front a bit. This will mean that the front of the pants will sit more on the shoes, which is okay.
To see the instructions on cutting the excess fabric you can watch chapter 11.
It is okay if you finish the raw edge using a serger.
I suggest that you watch the video lesson a couple of times to see how each step is done.
Thank you so much, initially I did narrate the lessons myself, however because of my accent we decided to change the voice over so that it is more easily understood by all our members around the world. I appreciate your encouragement.
You are welcome. Here are a few more suggestions since you are still getting a little puckering.
You can try changing your needle to a size 10/70. Make sure that your needle is not blunt.
Before sewing by machine, pin and baste the seams by hand using a double threaded needle. This is especially useful on light and slippery fabrics. Make sure that the pins are at a ninety degree angle to the edge of the seam allowances.
It helps if you pin closer together with the layers flat on the table, when working on these types of fabric.
Dear klerssrn,
First you need to make sure that the bobbin is inserted the right way in the bobbin case. Then check that the bobbin case is inserted correctly in the hook race.
When you hold the needle thread and rotate the hand wheel, make sure that you are not holding the thread tightly. Otherwise the bobbin thread will not come up. Rotate the hand wheel until the needle is in its highest position again.
When the needle is in the highest position, pull up the needle thread to bring up the bobbin thread with it. Open the looped bobbin thread and place both threads under the presser foot towards the back.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear chakitakay,
Thanks so much. What you can do is separate the waistband from the waistline, passing the side seams by about 5 cm, or more as needed. Then take in from both side seam and the excess amount from the center back of the waistband. Baste everything and do a fitting before trimming any excess fabric.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
If you plan to dry clean your garment you don't need to preshrink your fabric before sewing. For delicate fabric you can soak them in water and hang them to dry. If the fabric is stretchy, you can lay it flat on some towels and let it dry. you can change the towel to dry your fabric faster as well.
If your fabric gives off color, soak it in more water to avoid getting blotchy colors.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear vbaouy,
Yes you can use sheer paper to draft your pattern. I use esle paper since it is not see trough and shows up better on camera.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Masi,
The fabric grain line is formed by the way a fabric is woven. These woven threads run lengthwise and crosswise to each other. The lengthwise grain lines run parallel to the salvage and the crosswise threads perpendicular to it.
Usually the length of garments runs along the lengthwise grain line of the fabric being used. Therefore the width of most garments runs along the crosswise grain line.
Generally fabrics stretch more along their cross grain, that's why we cut the length of garments along the length of fabrics to avoid stretching, when the garment is worn. Otherwise the garment would be uneven along its hemline. Stretching of the garment along its width when it is worn is ok, and will not affect the look of the garment.
Whether we buy ready made patterns or draft them ourselves, we need to have the lengthwise grain line marked on each piece of the pattern. This way we will know how to position the pattern correctly on the fabric. We need to make sure that the lengthwise grain line of the pattern is parallel to the salvage or the folded edge of the fabric which is also parallel to the salvage of the fabric.
Some garments need to be cut on a bias because of their style. These garments have a lengthwise grain line on their patterns which is at a 45 degree angle to center front and center back lines of the pattern.
In all the pattern making lesson I teach how to draw the lengthwise grain line.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Nice Job!
Hi Nehzat,
I enjoy your videos very much and I'm learning a lot.I want to alter a pair of work/dress pants that I have but they are not the same type of pants featured in your video (side seams running up the waistband). My pants only have one seam running up the waistband and it's located in the centerback (I guess it's made more like a man's pants). How would I alter this type of pants to "take in" the waist?
Thanks:~)
Wow, those pants look like they fit you great, and what a big difference from your first muslin.
Very nice!
Veronica
Thanks Kate, I went and checked and sure enough I finally seen it. I had given up a long time ago and then I saw round wooden pin cushion in the new comments. (smile)
Veronica
Hi Veronica,
I believe there is one in the button sewing intro.
Kate
Dear turner58,
When you are using a ready made pattern you need to find out what your size is, by comparing your own measurements with what is written on the package. This way you will know which size you should use to cut the right size out.
If all your measurements are not a size 12, for example your hip measurement is size 14, you can draw a line from the waist area on size 12 and merge the line gradually with the size 14 in the hip area.
If your measurements are between two sizes, you can draw a new line between the two size lines to get the right measurement for your pattern.
Make sure to always use a different color so that your lines stand out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear empress4lyphe,
Thanks so much. First you should also make sure that you have measured the waist circumference and the lower hip circumference correctly as well.
Still this kind of situation could occur for those who have are flatter between their waist and their lower hipline.
The solution here would be to extend the darts until the upper hipline of the pattern is just a bit less than half of the actual upper hip circumference.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear empress4lyphe,
Thanks so much. First you should also make sure that you have measured the waist circumference and the lower hip circumference correctly as well.
Still this kind of situation could occur for those who are flatter between their waist and their lower hipline.
The solution here would be to extend the darts until the upper hipline of the pattern is just a bit less than half of the actual upper hip circumference.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi, first of all I love the clarity of the video instructions. Having a problem though making the skirt patterm. When I add up the upper hip circumference it is larger than the actual upper hip measurement/2. I've tried doing this pattern three times. I thought maybe I'm not measuring the exact same place when I measure distances between lower hip and waist, so my upper hip distance is also off. The second time around, I tried having my sister help me measure. This time, the third time, I marked my body to make sure I'm measuring exactly from my waist to my hips. But every single time, the calculated upper hip circumference comes out to be bigger than the actual.
For this time, the difference was 2.8cm. I extended each dart by 2cm, and the difference went down to 2.1cm (so 1.05cm for each side seam). Any advice on this??
Dear vbaouy,
I will cover this topic in the near future once we release videos on Sleeve block pattern making.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear bbema,
In the sewing machine essentials video lesson I explain how to use 3 different types of sewing machines. Your machine will be similar to one of these three. I suggest that you watch this lesson to learn how to use your machine.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Beatrice,
Welcome to our site and thanks for the kind words. I would be happy to see your costumes in the members photo gallery.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi, first of all I love the clarity of the video instructions. But like atan, when I add up the upper hip circumference it is larger than the actual upper hip measurement/2. I've tried doing this pattern three times. I thought maybe I'm not measuring the exact same place when I measure distances between lower hip and waist, so my upper hip distance is also off. The second time around, I tried having my sister help me measure. This time, the third time, I marked my body to make sure I'm measuring exactly from my waist to my hips. But every single time, the calculated upper hip circumference comes out to be bigger than the actual.
For this time, the difference was 2.8cm. I extended each dart by 2cm, and the difference went down to 2.1cm (so 1.05cm for each side seam). Any advice on this??
These are goregous. Congratulations! I know how much work these are. Just three years ago I started making my girls rhythmic gymnastics costumes and enjoy it most of the time :) Beatrice
Ok, that makes sense, thank you very much, Nehzat. I appreciate your help with my questions.
Thanks again,
Carol
Dear Carol,
If the pleats in the skirt have an opening that's when we need to use interfacing. This way the fabric can hold its shape better in this area.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear knottycarla,
At the second fitting, since the pants looked good and you had done all the steps according to the video lesson, everything went okay. However if you feel that the angle of the slant was to steep for the hemline (the front was a lot higher than the back) then you can lower the front a bit. This will mean that the front of the pants will sit more on the shoes, which is okay.
To see the instructions on cutting the excess fabric you can watch chapter 11.
It is okay if you finish the raw edge using a serger.
I suggest that you watch the video lesson a couple of times to see how each step is done.
Let me know how you manage with the second pants.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear ddagefoe
Thank you so much. I am happy to see that you have been able to benefit from the video lesson and learned a new technique as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Maureen,
Thank you so much, initially I did narrate the lessons myself, however because of my accent we decided to change the voice over so that it is more easily understood by all our members around the world. I appreciate your encouragement.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Veronica,
You are welcome. Here are a few more suggestions since you are still getting a little puckering.
You can try changing your needle to a size 10/70. Make sure that your needle is not blunt.
Before sewing by machine, pin and baste the seams by hand using a double threaded needle. This is especially useful on light and slippery fabrics. Make sure that the pins are at a ninety degree angle to the edge of the seam allowances.
It helps if you pin closer together with the layers flat on the table, when working on these types of fabric.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat