2. You should fuse the interfacing before sewing the darts.
3. If you want to fuse interfacing, the seam allowance of the waistline can be about 8 mm after trimming. Therefore you can fuse the interfacing about 6 mm above the seam line. This way there will be layering which reduce the bulk in this area.
Wish you a happy Thanksgiving as well. Since we live in Canada we celebrate Thanksgiving earlier, In the month of October.
You can trim the seam allowances to one cm, you do not need to layer the seam allowances. Having the lining and shell allowances the same width will strengthen the waistline since you have no waistband there.
You can also cut the ends of the darts at an angle on both the shell and lining to reduce the bulk at the top of the darts.
If you want to dry clean your skirt, you can cut the raw edge using pinking scissors. But if you want to wash it at home you can use one row of zigzag stitches to finish the raw edge of the shell and lining together.
Another option you may want to consider when you do not want to sew a waistband is to use interfacing along the top edge. This interfacing can be about 5 cm wide and will stabilize the top edge of the skirt.
a Denim vest should be pretty easy or as complex as you desire.Denim is fun for top stitching maybe use contrasting color?
I have made several winter jackets out of fleece.I have to say it is very easy to work with,Hemming is a breeze and you can take duck bill or some say Applique scissors and trim the excess hem you fold over or serge the hem? anyway I had fun sewing those jackets I added a waist casing with draw string and hood with jersery binding around the edge and pockets, zipper down the front on the outside.I keep loosing them?I dont know how so now I have to make another one I love the dark grey fleece it seems to go with most colors and Fleecet works great in the rain too.
Right now Im working on 2 renaissance Gowns for some choir girls one of the girls wants to make it with my help it should be fun Ill post pictures of those we have 2 weeks to finish! good lordy I have to start!I have to copy one of the dress from a book called spiderwick book #4 so im drawing out the pieces tomorrow I all ready started today on the sleeve parts it should be fun!
Here is a picture of a Gown I sewed a couple years ago when I first started sewing a replica of jane seymour queen of england. and the spiderwick one im currently working on
First you need to open the armhole seam lines under the arm by about 7 cm on either side of the side seams. This will give you an opening of about 14 cm for each armhole.
Next you need to take in the side seams and also from the seam of the sleeves, since when you take in from the side seam and decrease from the armhole measurement, the sleeve needs to be adjusted as well. This way the sleeve will fit the new armhole.
Once you sew the flat felt seam of the side seams and the sleeve seams separately, you sew the open section of the armhole using the flat felt style as well.
It is really nice that you posted a picture for everyone to see.
To answer your questions, yes the binding has to be cut on the bias to achieve a nice finish.
You can use this kind of seam finishing on curves as well. This is possible because the strips are cut on a bias.
Yes you need to fold in the bias raw edge, there should be no exposed raw edges. Therefore you need to cut the strips wide enough.
I use this type of seam finish myself around the armholes on garments with sleeves, covering both seam allowances with one biased strip that is wide enough to cover both seam allowances fully.
Below are a few samples of when I used this technique.
Welcome to our community. I am happy to see that you can make time for your hobby even after a long days work. Wish you the best in both your endevors.
Last year I promised myself I'd make a couple/few fleece jackets to wear during cold weather, but it didn't happen. I have completed two so far this fall! I will post them soon.
You are welcome. To clarify things a bit further about A-line skirt patterns, you need to make sure that the merging point is the same on both the front and back patterns.
Now let's assume that we want to add 10 cm along the hemline to the side seams. We do this on the front pattern first and connect this point to the side seam above the lower hipline, the line should merge smoothly. Let's assume that the merging point is at the upper hipline.
Now on the back pattern we need to measure the intake of the center back dart on the upper hipline, let say it is 0.6 cm. So when we measure out along the hemline for the back pattern for the A-line, we need to add 0.6 cm. 10 cm + 0.6 cm = 10.6 cm. So we measure and mark 10.6 cm from the side seam and mark on the hemline, then we connect this point to the upper hipline on the back pattern.
Doing this will give us the same angles for the A-Line on both the front and back patterns. This way when we measure straight down from the merging point to the hemline and transfer this measurement to the new side seams, the new hemlines at the side seams will rise the same amount.
When you draw the new hemline make sure to merge it with the old hemline at the old side seam. On the picture that you posted you merged the new hemline to the old one too early.
Yes, it sure helps. I now understand that I have to take the measurement from where the A-Line seam meets above the lower hipline. And it works.
As for the hem seam allowance, I used your advice and I find that the front pattern angle is more than the back pattern (hardly any difference). Is it because we added the 1cm extra when drafting the the front pattern?
If you sew the seam lines with less seam allowance that it is indicated in the pattern you will end up with a looser fitting garment. This will affect the length of the garment as well.
Some of the issues you may encounter on some garments might be that some points might not line up or match.
If your sewing machine does not have a 5/8 guideline on the needle plate, you can measure this distance from the needle point using a measuring tape and place a piece of masking tape on the needle plate. You can use the edge of the masking tape as your guide or you can draw a line on it using a ruler. Watch an example of how to do this by clicking here.
It seams to me that what might have gone wrong is that when you measured the center front length along the new side seam you measured from the new waistline that is raised up 1 cm. You need to measure from the old straight waistline.
For A line skirts wherever you merge the new side seam line along the existing side seam from the lower hipline up, you need to mark this point, then measure from that point straight down to the hemline. You then transfer this measurement to the new side seam, measuring down from the same point you marked.
To add the hem allowance you should continue the side seam line down to the hemline, then fold it with the seam allowance under and trace the corner of the hem allowance line on the side seam allowance. You should use a sheet of carbon paper to copy the line.
An alternative is to fold along the side seam before cutting the hem allowance line.
I have added 10cm to my hem line for the A-Line skirt sloper. I have also measured the length of the centre front line. When I follow that measurement it is the point A on my side seam. Somehow I feel this is too high up i.e 1.6cm from the hem line. So I lowered it by half to point B and drew a curved line to the hem line.
A mistake when I made the muslin earlier, I did not shorten the side seams and curve the sides to the hem line. It turned out just a little longer.
My questions are:
1. Is point B still too high?
2. Is the curve of the hem line allowance correct for cutting i.e. 6 cms parallel to the curved hem line?
You have made a good choice in doing the sleeve hems and the bottom hem of the blouse exactly the same since the hems are decorative they should look the same. If you did not want to decorate the hems you could have done the bottom hem wider.
If the bottom of your blouse was not straight just like some men's dress shirts that are curved, then you would have a narrow hem.
When your new shoulder slope falls on the front pattern instead, you remove the tapes holding the patterns together and open the back shoulder line fold and flatten it. Then you need to fold along the front shoulder slope and place it on the back shoulder slope starting at the neckline.
Tape the patterns together, center the shoulder slopes as before and copy the location to the back pattern with a pin as shown in chapter 19 of the Bodice block pattern making video lesson.
Since the new shoulder slope crosses the front armhole, you need to mark the location on the back pattern and draw a new shoulder slope on the back instead of the front patter. So when this occurs you need to draw a new armhole on the back pattern from the pin mark.
Dear Viorel,
Welcome to the site. I am happy that you were able to benefit from the video lesson and be able to begin sewing with your new found Janome.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you again Nehzat for your clear explaination.
Barbara
Dear Barbara
I am happy to answer your questions.
1. You need to fuse the interfacing to the shell.
2. You should fuse the interfacing before sewing the darts.
3. If you want to fuse interfacing, the seam allowance of the waistline can be about 8 mm after trimming. Therefore you can fuse the interfacing about 6 mm above the seam line. This way there will be layering which reduce the bulk in this area.
Wish you a happy Thanksgiving as well. Since we live in Canada we celebrate Thanksgiving earlier, In the month of October.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you Nehzat for your reply.
I hope you don't mind but I have further questions on the interfacing:
1. Do I fuse it to the shell or lining?
2. Do I fuse it before or after the darts are sewn?
3. Do I start fusing right from the top edge of the skirt i.e. 1.3cms above the waistline?
TIA and if you are in the US, Happy Thanksgiving to you!
Barbara
Dear Barbara,
You can trim the seam allowances to one cm, you do not need to layer the seam allowances. Having the lining and shell allowances the same width will strengthen the waistline since you have no waistband there.
You can also cut the ends of the darts at an angle on both the shell and lining to reduce the bulk at the top of the darts.
If you want to dry clean your skirt, you can cut the raw edge using pinking scissors. But if you want to wash it at home you can use one row of zigzag stitches to finish the raw edge of the shell and lining together.
Another option you may want to consider when you do not want to sew a waistband is to use interfacing along the top edge. This interfacing can be about 5 cm wide and will stabilize the top edge of the skirt.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
a Denim vest should be pretty easy or as complex as you desire.Denim is fun for top stitching maybe use contrasting color?
I have made several winter jackets out of fleece.I have to say it is very easy to work with,Hemming is a breeze and you can take duck bill or some say Applique scissors and trim the excess hem you fold over or serge the hem? anyway I had fun sewing those jackets I added a waist casing with draw string and hood with jersery binding around the edge and pockets, zipper down the front on the outside.I keep loosing them?I dont know how so now I have to make another one I love the dark grey fleece it seems to go with most colors and Fleecet works great in the rain too.
Right now Im working on 2 renaissance Gowns for some choir girls one of the girls wants to make it with my help it should be fun Ill post pictures of those we have 2 weeks to finish! good lordy I have to start!I have to copy one of the dress from a book called spiderwick book #4 so im drawing out the pieces tomorrow I all ready started today on the sleeve parts it should be fun!
Here is a picture of a Gown I sewed a couple years ago when I first started sewing a replica of jane seymour queen of england. and the spiderwick one im currently working on
Thank you Nehzat for your clear explaination.
Barbara
Dear Arlene,
First you need to open the armhole seam lines under the arm by about 7 cm on either side of the side seams. This will give you an opening of about 14 cm for each armhole.
Next you need to take in the side seams and also from the seam of the sleeves, since when you take in from the side seam and decrease from the armhole measurement, the sleeve needs to be adjusted as well. This way the sleeve will fit the new armhole.
Once you sew the flat felt seam of the side seams and the sleeve seams separately, you sew the open section of the armhole using the flat felt style as well.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear Barbara,
It is really nice that you posted a picture for everyone to see.
To answer your questions, yes the binding has to be cut on the bias to achieve a nice finish.
You can use this kind of seam finishing on curves as well. This is possible because the strips are cut on a bias.
Yes you need to fold in the bias raw edge, there should be no exposed raw edges. Therefore you need to cut the strips wide enough.
I use this type of seam finish myself around the armholes on garments with sleeves, covering both seam allowances with one biased strip that is wide enough to cover both seam allowances fully.
Below are a few samples of when I used this technique.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Sue,
Looking forward to seeing your projects in our member project gallery.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Sue,
Welcome to our community. I am happy to see that you can make time for your hobby even after a long days work. Wish you the best in both your endevors.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Last year I promised myself I'd make a couple/few fleece jackets to wear during cold weather, but it didn't happen. I have completed two so far this fall! I will post them soon.
Sue
Thank you for your answer. It is very detailed and logical.
I will redraw the new side seam and the hemline curve as you have advised.
Many thanks again.
Barbara
Dear Barbara,
You are welcome. To clarify things a bit further about A-line skirt patterns, you need to make sure that the merging point is the same on both the front and back patterns.
Now let's assume that we want to add 10 cm along the hemline to the side seams. We do this on the front pattern first and connect this point to the side seam above the lower hipline, the line should merge smoothly. Let's assume that the merging point is at the upper hipline.
Now on the back pattern we need to measure the intake of the center back dart on the upper hipline, let say it is 0.6 cm. So when we measure out along the hemline for the back pattern for the A-line, we need to add 0.6 cm. 10 cm + 0.6 cm = 10.6 cm. So we measure and mark 10.6 cm from the side seam and mark on the hemline, then we connect this point to the upper hipline on the back pattern.
Doing this will give us the same angles for the A-Line on both the front and back patterns. This way when we measure straight down from the merging point to the hemline and transfer this measurement to the new side seams, the new hemlines at the side seams will rise the same amount.
When you draw the new hemline make sure to merge it with the old hemline at the old side seam. On the picture that you posted you merged the new hemline to the old one too early.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Thank you Nehzat for your clear explaination.
Yes, it sure helps. I now understand that I have to take the measurement from where the A-Line seam meets above the lower hipline. And it works.
As for the hem seam allowance, I used your advice and I find that the front pattern angle is more than the back pattern (hardly any difference). Is it because we added the 1cm extra when drafting the the front pattern?
Thanks.
Barbara
Dear Birdie,
If you sew the seam lines with less seam allowance that it is indicated in the pattern you will end up with a looser fitting garment. This will affect the length of the garment as well.
Some of the issues you may encounter on some garments might be that some points might not line up or match.
If your sewing machine does not have a 5/8 guideline on the needle plate, you can measure this distance from the needle point using a measuring tape and place a piece of masking tape on the needle plate. You can use the edge of the masking tape as your guide or you can draw a line on it using a ruler. Watch an example of how to do this by clicking here.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Barbara,
It seams to me that what might have gone wrong is that when you measured the center front length along the new side seam you measured from the new waistline that is raised up 1 cm. You need to measure from the old straight waistline.
For A line skirts wherever you merge the new side seam line along the existing side seam from the lower hipline up, you need to mark this point, then measure from that point straight down to the hemline. You then transfer this measurement to the new side seam, measuring down from the same point you marked.
To add the hem allowance you should continue the side seam line down to the hemline, then fold it with the seam allowance under and trace the corner of the hem allowance line on the side seam allowance. You should use a sheet of carbon paper to copy the line.
An alternative is to fold along the side seam before cutting the hem allowance line.
Please let me know if this helps,
Nehzat
I have added 10cm to my hem line for the A-Line skirt sloper. I have also measured the length of the centre front line. When I follow that measurement it is the point A on my side seam. Somehow I feel this is too high up i.e 1.6cm from the hem line. So I lowered it by half to point B and drew a curved line to the hem line.
A mistake when I made the muslin earlier, I did not shorten the side seams and curve the sides to the hem line. It turned out just a little longer.
My questions are:
1. Is point B still too high?
2. Is the curve of the hem line allowance correct for cutting i.e. 6 cms parallel to the curved hem line?
Thanks.
Barbara
Bjack,
Thank you for the clarification, now I can get back at it!
Yvettez
Hi Yvettez,
It means only the neckline is 3/8" seam allowance the rest of the garment is 5/8" seam allowance.
Barbara
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you for your explanation. I did watch the video again and you explained it there as you've just done now.
Again, thank you so much.
Kind regards
J
Thank you for your reply Nehzat. I will keep your advice in mind the next time I make another blouse.
Thank you, very much, Nehzat. Appreciate your help!
Sincerely,
Carol
Dear Barbara,
You have made a good choice in doing the sleeve hems and the bottom hem of the blouse exactly the same since the hems are decorative they should look the same. If you did not want to decorate the hems you could have done the bottom hem wider.
If the bottom of your blouse was not straight just like some men's dress shirts that are curved, then you would have a narrow hem.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear J,
When your new shoulder slope falls on the front pattern instead, you remove the tapes holding the patterns together and open the back shoulder line fold and flatten it. Then you need to fold along the front shoulder slope and place it on the back shoulder slope starting at the neckline.
Tape the patterns together, center the shoulder slopes as before and copy the location to the back pattern with a pin as shown in chapter 19 of the Bodice block pattern making video lesson.
Since the new shoulder slope crosses the front armhole, you need to mark the location on the back pattern and draw a new shoulder slope on the back instead of the front patter. So when this occurs you need to draw a new armhole on the back pattern from the pin mark.
I hope this clears things up,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat