You should of told me to just wait for the video, I had no idea you would have to type a book. I'm so sorry. Thank-you for going to such much trouble. You give excellent directions, I know what to do now.
I've seen some videos on YouTube how to sew a continuous strip on the sleeve. Seeing is nothing like reading on books like this website. I learned the continuous strip technique on YouTube. I never used it myself though since I don't really make shirts for myself. I make my husband dress shirts often, but I don't use the continuous strip for them.
I'm sorry I have a sick sence of humor. (deliverence) You being the creative person you obviously are I know you can make great things happen in Tn.
As far as draping goes, I don't know anything about it, I'm not that far along yet. I'm not sure if there is a video on that, you'll have to look. Also go to the disscusion forum and go to (I think it's called sewing questions) and post your question and Nehzat will answer you.
I did cut the block pattern without the seam allowance because I thought I would use it on the commercial pattern to see the diffence and to adjust the pattern according to my precise block pattern.
When I made a muslin sample, I needed small adjustments, but now I'm sort of lost the points of reference. Was I suppose to keep the block pattern intact, and copy to use it? After I cut it out, I'm lost around the bust adjustment since threre is the side darts there.
I adjusted the side seam length and the shoulder seam without the problem, but lost with the bust adjustment. Do you see my confusion area?
Can I just add 1/4 of adjustments for the bust on the bust line, and draw a pararel line on the existing side seam? But if I do that, the waist and the arm hole measurement changes.
The basic form is the same for both men’s and women’s pants. You can use the same technique I use to draft the pattern. Make sure to test the fit using muslin.
You can adjust the block patterns just like you do a commercial pattern.
First adjust your block pattern for your new measurements, then style it according to the garment you want to sew. Make sure to add the seam allowances after you style the block pattern. Generally adjusting block patterns is much easier without seam allowances. You can erase the seam allowances around the area you need to adjust. If you cant do this, copy the block pattern without any seam allowances.
If you dont want to erase the seam allowances or make a new copy of the block pattern. You can use different coloured pencil to draw the new seam and seam allowance lines. This way the lines will not be mixed up.
Adjusting and styling the block pattern is not difficult.
Thanks for the kind words. I saw your cushion cover in your photo album, it is beautiful. Thanks for sharing your work with us. I would love to see your other projects. I think a tote bag is good idea for a future project.
Welcome to our site. Thanks so much for the kind words.
I have learned a lot of sewing from my own mother and aunts. They were a great influence on me and gave me the joy I find in sewing. It is never too late to learn a new skill or brush up on what you already know. I think that you should be able to learn more by watching our videos. Please share your work with us.
I am very sorry to hear about your loss. I hope that you will be able to pursue your career in Tennessee as well. Successful people can have success no matter where they find themselves. I am sure that you will find joy and satisfaction trough sewing and meeting new friends through the site.
I have joint your webside recently and i am interested in pattern making . I would like to know what are the essential tools i need to buy to start this project. e.g (types of rulers and pattern papers? )
I am realy looking forward to learn as much as i can from your vedios. They are really helpful.
Yes, I was glad to hear from you, so you know the shocking I am feeling. However, I heard through the grapevine that Tennessee is looking to do more Movies, so maybe I am in the right place. Also, do you know anything about draping or where I can get some more knowledge on it.
Thanks so much for the kind words, they are greatly appreciated. Below I have explained how to sew the lining with facing to the garment without the benefit of a video. But I am going to make a video lesson showing this process soon.
First cut the facing pieces larger than the pattern asks, then cut and fuse the interfacing to it. Then place the pattern on top and trim the excess fabric.
Next sew the shoulder seams of the neckline facing. Then the side seams and shoulder seams of the armhole facing pieces. Now press open all the seams of the facing pieces.
Press open the seams of the shell and lining.
You need to sew the facing pieces to the lining. First pin the inner edge of the neckline facing to the lining neckline, make sure you match the shoulder seams of the lining and the facing together and the center front and center back of the neckline as well. Pin in between.
Next you need to pin and sew the armhole facings to the lining along the inner edge.
Trim away the excess seam allowance of the lining (fabric) around the neckline and armholes. Make sure to leave behind about 6 mm.
Then you clip notches along the armholes and neckline of the lining (fabric). Your notches should be about 1.5 cm apart and 2 mm from the seam line.
Now you need to press the seam allowance of the neckline and armholes where you joined the facing to the lining, towards the lining. The notches you cut will let the lining and facing lay flat.
Next you pin and sew the shell to the facing around the neckline. Make sure to pin them with the right sides together. Match the shoulder seams and the center front and center back of the neckline.
To sew the armholes you turn the garment right side out and place it on the table. Working on one armhole, fold the armhole in, along the top of the side seam on the shell and facing by about 1.5 cm. Then hold the fold in place with your left hand and pass your right hand between the lining and the shell and hold the folded shell and facing with your right hand. Release the fabric from your left hand.
Bring the side seam out between the lining and the shell with your right hand, holding the layers steady.
Match the side seams of the facing and the shell and pin them together 90 degrees to the armhole from the inside. Continue working from the inside and pin the shoulder seam of the shell and facing. Match the edges of the facing and the shell all around the armhole and pin.
Now sew by machine. It is always easier to sew around the armhole by machine when the shoulders are wider. To sew the armhole seam start sewing before the shoulder seam and then sew all the way around and finish at the same spot.
Trim away the excess seam allowance, clip notches just like the neckline. Repeat for the other armhole.
The best thing to do is to search online using the model number of your singer sewing machine. There are many different videos for different model singers there to help you. You can also take your machine to sewing machine repair shops and see if they can show you in person how to wind your machine's bobbin.
Then fuse any interfacing to the facing if instructed by the packaging. Cut the facing larger than the pattern, once the interfacing is fused to it, place the pattern on top again and cut it to size.
Sew the shoulder seams of the facing pieces together.
Next press open the shoulder seams of the facing and the garment.
Place the right sides of the facing and garment together, match the shoulder seams, the v points and the center backs and pin the layers together. Pin in between the pins as well.
Now you can sew the facing to the garment by machine. Start from the center back.
To help you find out where to stop sewing on the front bellow the v point, draw a straight line down from the v point using tailors chalk. When you reach the line keep the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, rotate the garment to sew the other side of the v neck.
Once you trim the excess fabric from the seam allowance you need to clip a notch at the v point on the seam allowance. This notch should be about 1.5 mm away from the stitch line. You need to also clip more notches along the back of the neckline on the seam allowance and down to about 6 cm from the shoulder seams on the front of the neckline. These notches can be about 1 to 1.5 cm apart and about 2 mm from the seam lines. The reason you do this is to allow the facing to lay flat and in place when you turn it under.
Thanks so much for the kind words, and welcome to the site.
I am not really sure what you are having difficulty with. But if the problem is with keeping the layers together well, when sewing the seams by machine. Then I suggest that you pin the layers together first and then baste them by hand, before sewing by machine.
Make sure to use jersey needle for your machine as well.
Hi Jnjewel
Thank you for the compliment. I will always try to make time to answer your questions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi
On our website these seams are referred to as "Sewing Flat Felt Seams or Blue Jean Seams (Self Finishing)". Please click here to watch now. Note that you will need a full access subscription to watch the video.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Welcome to our site.
You can use our pattern making videos to draft patterns that fit your body properly. I have added your suggestions to our future video release.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
thank you, ur answer was very helpful, found a video on you tube.
Dear Nehzat,
You should of told me to just wait for the video, I had no idea you would have to type a book. I'm so sorry. Thank-you for going to such much trouble. You give excellent directions, I know what to do now.
1glenda
Hi,
I've seen some videos on YouTube how to sew a continuous strip on the sleeve. Seeing is nothing like reading on books like this website. I learned the continuous strip technique on YouTube. I never used it myself though since I don't really make shirts for myself. I make my husband dress shirts often, but I don't use the continuous strip for them.
Good luck.
jnjewel
I'm sorry I have a sick sence of humor. (deliverence) You being the creative person you obviously are I know you can make great things happen in Tn.
As far as draping goes, I don't know anything about it, I'm not that far along yet. I'm not sure if there is a video on that, you'll have to look. Also go to the disscusion forum and go to (I think it's called sewing questions) and post your question and Nehzat will answer you.
Well keep me updated.
You take care.
1Glenda
Thank you for your reply.
I did cut the block pattern without the seam allowance because I thought I would use it on the commercial pattern to see the diffence and to adjust the pattern according to my precise block pattern.
When I made a muslin sample, I needed small adjustments, but now I'm sort of lost the points of reference. Was I suppose to keep the block pattern intact, and copy to use it? After I cut it out, I'm lost around the bust adjustment since threre is the side darts there.
I adjusted the side seam length and the shoulder seam without the problem, but lost with the bust adjustment. Do you see my confusion area?
Can I just add 1/4 of adjustments for the bust on the bust line, and draw a pararel line on the existing side seam? But if I do that, the waist and the arm hole measurement changes.
Can you explain this part of adjustment please?
Jnjewel
Dear Oren,
The basic form is the same for both men’s and women’s pants. You can use the same technique I use to draft the pattern. Make sure to test the fit using muslin.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jnjewel,
You can adjust the block patterns just like you do a commercial pattern.
First adjust your block pattern for your new measurements, then style it according to the garment you want to sew. Make sure to add the seam allowances after you style the block pattern. Generally adjusting block patterns is much easier without seam allowances. You can erase the seam allowances around the area you need to adjust. If you cant do this, copy the block pattern without any seam allowances.
If you dont want to erase the seam allowances or make a new copy of the block pattern. You can use different coloured pencil to draw the new seam and seam allowance lines. This way the lines will not be mixed up.
Adjusting and styling the block pattern is not difficult.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Veronica,
Thanks for the kind words. I saw your cushion cover in your photo album, it is beautiful. Thanks for sharing your work with us. I would love to see your other projects. I think a tote bag is good idea for a future project.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi talents,
The items you will need are the same I use in the videos:
A long ruler (metal is better since it is thinner, the marks will be closer to the paper)
A medium length ruler (preferably a clear one)
A Triangle ruler
A large Right angle ruler
Pattern paper (for beginners I recommend isle pad paper which is not transparent, this way you can see what you are doing more clearly)
A led pencil is also good (however I don't use it in the videos since it is not easy for the camera to see the lines)
A measuring tape (one side in centimeters the other in inches)
Carbon paper
These are the main thing you will need. Make sure that your straight rulers are marked in centimeters as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear altamira55
Welcome to our site. Thanks so much for the kind words.
I have learned a lot of sewing from my own mother and aunts. They were a great influence on me and gave me the joy I find in sewing. It is never too late to learn a new skill or brush up on what you already know. I think that you should be able to learn more by watching our videos. Please share your work with us.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Sunrise24,
Welcome to our site. I hope that you will find it helpful.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear divadoll,
I am very sorry to hear about your loss. I hope that you will be able to pursue your career in Tennessee as well. Successful people can have success no matter where they find themselves. I am sure that you will find joy and satisfaction trough sewing and meeting new friends through the site.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat
I have joint your webside recently and i am interested in pattern making . I would like to know what are the essential tools i need to buy to start this project. e.g (types of rulers and pattern papers? )
I am realy looking forward to learn as much as i can from your vedios. They are really helpful.
Thank you for your time.
Talents
Yes, I was glad to hear from you, so you know the shocking I am feeling. However, I heard through the grapevine that Tennessee is looking to do more Movies, so maybe I am in the right place. Also, do you know anything about draping or where I can get some more knowledge on it.
Divaidol,
Wow what a culture shock! I'm sorry to hear about the death in your family I live in Pensacola Fl.
My husband and I lived in San Diego for awhile.
I can't say enough good things about this site. I have learned so much in the month I have been a member.
I hope you meet friends on this site and in Tenessee.
Let me hear from you.
1Glenda
Hi Sunrise,
I'm from Pensacola, Fl, USA.
This site is awsome. I have learned so much in the month I have been a member.
Good luck and let me hear from you, about your sewing.
1Glenda
Dear 1Glenda
Thanks so much for the kind words, they are greatly appreciated. Below I have explained how to sew the lining with facing to the garment without the benefit of a video. But I am going to make a video lesson showing this process soon.
First cut the facing pieces larger than the pattern asks, then cut and fuse the interfacing to it. Then place the pattern on top and trim the excess fabric.
Next sew the shoulder seams of the neckline facing. Then the side seams and shoulder seams of the armhole facing pieces. Now press open all the seams of the facing pieces.
Press open the seams of the shell and lining.
You need to sew the facing pieces to the lining. First pin the inner edge of the neckline facing to the lining neckline, make sure you match the shoulder seams of the lining and the facing together and the center front and center back of the neckline as well. Pin in between.
Next you need to pin and sew the armhole facings to the lining along the inner edge.
Trim away the excess seam allowance of the lining (fabric) around the neckline and armholes. Make sure to leave behind about 6 mm.
Then you clip notches along the armholes and neckline of the lining (fabric). Your notches should be about 1.5 cm apart and 2 mm from the seam line.
Now you need to press the seam allowance of the neckline and armholes where you joined the facing to the lining, towards the lining. The notches you cut will let the lining and facing lay flat.
Next you pin and sew the shell to the facing around the neckline. Make sure to pin them with the right sides together. Match the shoulder seams and the center front and center back of the neckline.
To sew the armholes you turn the garment right side out and place it on the table. Working on one armhole, fold the armhole in, along the top of the side seam on the shell and facing by about 1.5 cm. Then hold the fold in place with your left hand and pass your right hand between the lining and the shell and hold the folded shell and facing with your right hand. Release the fabric from your left hand.
Bring the side seam out between the lining and the shell with your right hand, holding the layers steady.
Match the side seams of the facing and the shell and pin them together 90 degrees to the armhole from the inside. Continue working from the inside and pin the shoulder seam of the shell and facing. Match the edges of the facing and the shell all around the armhole and pin.
Now sew by machine. It is always easier to sew around the armhole by machine when the shoulders are wider. To sew the armhole seam start sewing before the shoulder seam and then sew all the way around and finish at the same spot.
Trim away the excess seam allowance, clip notches just like the neckline. Repeat for the other armhole.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear bubbls311,
The best thing to do is to search online using the model number of your singer sewing machine. There are many different videos for different model singers there to help you. You can also take your machine to sewing machine repair shops and see if they can show you in person how to wind your machine's bobbin.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear eyeboyle,
Thanks so much. We will be releasing a video on how to draft a sleeve block pattern very soon.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jnndecuire,
First you need to sew the shoulder seams.
Then fuse any interfacing to the facing if instructed by the packaging. Cut the facing larger than the pattern, once the interfacing is fused to it, place the pattern on top again and cut it to size.
Sew the shoulder seams of the facing pieces together.
Next press open the shoulder seams of the facing and the garment.
Place the right sides of the facing and garment together, match the shoulder seams, the v points and the center backs and pin the layers together. Pin in between the pins as well.
Now you can sew the facing to the garment by machine. Start from the center back.
To help you find out where to stop sewing on the front bellow the v point, draw a straight line down from the v point using tailors chalk. When you reach the line keep the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot, rotate the garment to sew the other side of the v neck.
Once you trim the excess fabric from the seam allowance you need to clip a notch at the v point on the seam allowance. This notch should be about 1.5 mm away from the stitch line. You need to also clip more notches along the back of the neckline on the seam allowance and down to about 6 cm from the shoulder seams on the front of the neckline. These notches can be about 1 to 1.5 cm apart and about 2 mm from the seam lines. The reason you do this is to allow the facing to lay flat and in place when you turn it under.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Debbie,
Thanks so much for the kind words, and welcome to the site.
I am not really sure what you are having difficulty with. But if the problem is with keeping the layers together well, when sewing the seams by machine. Then I suggest that you pin the layers together first and then baste them by hand, before sewing by machine.
Make sure to use jersey needle for your machine as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear 1Glenda,
Welcome to eSewingWorkshop. I appreciate you answering the question.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat