We will releasing this video in the near future. Once it is posted on the website, we will also send out an email newsletter to all our website members.
I'm sorry but I can't seem to find the video link about converting the straight skirt pattern to A-Line skirt pattern. Please could you provide the direct link?
I was at Jo Anns fabric and craft the other day and saw a dressform for 89.99 It is a maroon color.
I bought one at Jo Anns fabric and craft store (on-line) 5 years ago and have adjusted the size with the adjusters many times and it has never broke, it has held up well, you are able to put pants on it easily and abjust the height. I think it is a very nice dressform. Mine is a blue color.
I like Nehzats dressform it is professional but I am not! (yet)
I know another way using a mat board (thick strong paper for framing arts). This method is by Don McCunn. His pattern making book is pretty famous. His method of making pattern is different from Nehzat method, but it's a good reading to learn about 3D body shaping concept.
He explains in his book (I don't remember the name of the book, but you can easily find it online or even as he suggests, in the library) how to make a dress form. He says it's not a copy of your real shape, but for fitting purpose, the measurements are correct.
I didn't try this method because actually mat board is quite expensive, and seemed a lot of work. The duct tape method, too, it seemed too much work. So I bought a dress form for $80 dollars including shipping. Information about the store, see my posting here : http://esewingworkshop.com/forum/dress-forms.
I don't work for them or anything. I found the place on e-bay, and they do have great variety of shapes and sizes. Don't get mixed up with the display only manequinns because they do sell both.
I don't exactly know what problem you are having, but possibly the needle is too big.
You tend to think knit is loosely woven, but some knit, especially thin cotton knit won't let a big needle go through. When that happens, since knit is stretchy, often the needle push the fabric into the whole, and get caught. Also it's best to use a ballpoint needle than a sharp needle for knits so the needle slip through the wholes, not cutting through. Try from size 11, then go lower if it doesn't work.
Also if you have the control, lower the foot pressure for the stretch fabric. Stronger pressure cause the stretch fabric to stretch more, and the seam become wavy.
You need to use small tiny zig-zag or thunder shape zig-zag to sew on the sewing machine. If you use straight stitch, when you stretch to wear it, the seams pups open. I stay away from the repeated straight stitch even though some manual tells it's for the stretchy fabric. In my experience, the stretchy fabric wouldn't go back and forth nicely because of the stretch, and the seam doesn't look uneven. This stitch works better on stabler fabric like double knit. But again with thin knit, it can give you a headache.
After sewing, if you see wavy seam, steam with the steam iron, withoug pressing, just steaming over the area. It tends to shrink the fabric back to the somewhat original state, then with the tip of iron, iron little by little, trying not to make creases. This usually flatten the seam.
I hope this would help your project. Once you get used to it, knit sewing is very forgiving, and the row edge doesn't unravel!! The twin needle works great for the heming and the neckline.
Keep working on it head on! Everyone learns from the mistakes, I definitely did : )
I sew knits much more than cotton or wool nowadays with a little boy at home. To stablize knit, in my opinion fusible tricot is the best. To make it really stable, you fuse it opposite grain line at 90 degree from the outer fabric.(criss-cross) If you need to wear it, and need the knit to stretch, you can fuse it with the same grain line. I mean here is the stretching side of the fabric. Knit most of the time stretch side ways (2-way stretch, though there are some 4-way stretch).
Does it make sense? I don't go crazy about the line of grain so much on the fusible tricot. If you stretch them, you know which way is the stretchy side easily. You fuse it, so the small amount of being off line doesn't really bother me. Anyway knit is stretch fabric to begin with, you know!
I am happy to be of help and hope that you will advance in your sewing abilities. Doing work and accomplishing projects by hand is a real source of pleasure and happiness. When we create something by hand we appreciate it much more and want to keep it, even if it doesn't fit any more or gets old and out of style.
Most of the things I have done by hand over the years I still keep and treasure.
Welcome to our site. Thanks for the kind words. I hope that you will be able to sew the garments that you want to make more easily now, with the help of our videos.
You may not want to sew the exact garments that I show in the videos, but you can learn a lot by watching them and increase your knowledge of sewing. Many of the techniques I teach can be used in many different projects.
I learned how by renting sewing books from my library like vogue sewing and new complete guide to sewing (readers digest) which i liked alot. it is easy to do and stores also sell bias tape makers that fold the bias strips that you've cut.
I'll go with the single fold bias method. I didn't think about it before, but hand sewing is the way to go maybe for this garment as you sugested.
I realize that real couture sewing means a lot of hand work. Before I made a lot of garments with fast and quick way with cheap fabric, but nowadays, I truly appreciate the handwork and couture sewing, AND a quality fabric.
I feel like I'm in the next phase of sewing journey, and am enjoying it with e-sewing workshop.com.
In order to make any of these adjustments to the side seam when we have a side bust dart, we need to tape closed the side bust dart. Then as you mentioned we add or deduct one quarter of our total adjustment out or in along the bust dart line.
If there are any adjustments needed along the waistline, we will mark a quarter of this along its deepest part. Remember that some of this waistline adjustment can also be accomplished by adjusting the intake of the waist darts.
Once this is done you can connect the marks to get your new side seam.
When you draw upward and reach the armhole line the armhole will be affected, this is normal. In this situation if your garment is sleeve less, make sure that the facing and the lining are adjusted accordingly. If your garment has sleeves then you need to adjust the sleeve pattern as well.
When adjusting the sleeve seams draw the lines down to the bottom or merge them somewhere in between. Or you can adjust the bottom of the sleeve pattern and connect the points.
When we want to compare a block pattern without seam allowances to a ready made pattern which includes seam allowances, we need to draw the seam lines on the ready made pattern first using the instructions it comes with.
You can sew all the seams using the French seam style. But to finish the raw edge of the armhole seam allowances, I prefer doing a single fold binding. This will work very well even when we have lots of gather at the sleeve caps. I suggest you bind both of the seam allowances of the armhole and sleeve together so that you have one binding around each armhole seam allowance.
Doing this will smooth out the seam allowance at the sleeve caps where you have the gathered fabric. Make sure to press the seam allowances before doing the binding to keep the allowances flat.
You can use the same material as the blouse or a lining fabric for the bias strips. Sometimes lining fabric works better, especially if your fabric is chiffon or georgette which are hard to handle. If you prefer using the same fabric to do the binding you can use slip stitches by hand instead of sewing by machine.
Dear Nanees
We currently have videos on how to attach a waistband to pants and skirts - listed below. You can watch those videos to get an idea.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Barbara
We will releasing this video in the near future. Once it is posted on the website, we will also send out an email newsletter to all our website members.
Happy sewing
Nehzat
Dear Grace
Welcome to our community. Glad you found the videos helpful.
We have Jacket Sewing in our list of future video lesson releases.
Happy sewing
Nehzat
Dear Barbara
Welcome to our community. Thank you for the kind words and spreading the word about our website.
Best regards
Nehzat
Dear Nanees
Welcome to our community. Hope you find it helpful.
Happy sewing
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat,
I'm sorry but I can't seem to find the video link about converting the straight skirt pattern to A-Line skirt pattern. Please could you provide the direct link?
TIA.
Barbara
I was at Jo Anns fabric and craft the other day and saw a dressform for 89.99 It is a maroon color.
I bought one at Jo Anns fabric and craft store (on-line) 5 years ago and have adjusted the size with the adjusters many times and it has never broke, it has held up well, you are able to put pants on it easily and abjust the height. I think it is a very nice dressform. Mine is a blue color.
I like Nehzats dressform it is professional but I am not! (yet)
Veronica
Hi,
I know another way using a mat board (thick strong paper for framing arts). This method is by Don McCunn. His pattern making book is pretty famous. His method of making pattern is different from Nehzat method, but it's a good reading to learn about 3D body shaping concept.
He explains in his book (I don't remember the name of the book, but you can easily find it online or even as he suggests, in the library) how to make a dress form. He says it's not a copy of your real shape, but for fitting purpose, the measurements are correct.
I didn't try this method because actually mat board is quite expensive, and seemed a lot of work. The duct tape method, too, it seemed too much work. So I bought a dress form for $80 dollars including shipping. Information about the store, see my posting here : http://esewingworkshop.com/forum/dress-forms.
I don't work for them or anything. I found the place on e-bay, and they do have great variety of shapes and sizes. Don't get mixed up with the display only manequinns because they do sell both.
I hope this will help.
Jnjewel
Does every dressmaker need a mannequin?
Hi Debbie,
I don't exactly know what problem you are having, but possibly the needle is too big.
You tend to think knit is loosely woven, but some knit, especially thin cotton knit won't let a big needle go through. When that happens, since knit is stretchy, often the needle push the fabric into the whole, and get caught. Also it's best to use a ballpoint needle than a sharp needle for knits so the needle slip through the wholes, not cutting through. Try from size 11, then go lower if it doesn't work.
Also if you have the control, lower the foot pressure for the stretch fabric. Stronger pressure cause the stretch fabric to stretch more, and the seam become wavy.
You need to use small tiny zig-zag or thunder shape zig-zag to sew on the sewing machine. If you use straight stitch, when you stretch to wear it, the seams pups open. I stay away from the repeated straight stitch even though some manual tells it's for the stretchy fabric. In my experience, the stretchy fabric wouldn't go back and forth nicely because of the stretch, and the seam doesn't look uneven. This stitch works better on stabler fabric like double knit. But again with thin knit, it can give you a headache.
After sewing, if you see wavy seam, steam with the steam iron, withoug pressing, just steaming over the area. It tends to shrink the fabric back to the somewhat original state, then with the tip of iron, iron little by little, trying not to make creases. This usually flatten the seam.
I hope this would help your project. Once you get used to it, knit sewing is very forgiving, and the row edge doesn't unravel!! The twin needle works great for the heming and the neckline.
Keep working on it head on! Everyone learns from the mistakes, I definitely did : )
Jnjewel
Hi,
I sew knits much more than cotton or wool nowadays with a little boy at home. To stablize knit, in my opinion fusible tricot is the best. To make it really stable, you fuse it opposite grain line at 90 degree from the outer fabric.(criss-cross) If you need to wear it, and need the knit to stretch, you can fuse it with the same grain line. I mean here is the stretching side of the fabric. Knit most of the time stretch side ways (2-way stretch, though there are some 4-way stretch).
Does it make sense? I don't go crazy about the line of grain so much on the fusible tricot. If you stretch them, you know which way is the stretchy side easily. You fuse it, so the small amount of being off line doesn't really bother me. Anyway knit is stretch fabric to begin with, you know!
I hope it helps.
jnjewel
Dear jnjewel,
Thanks for the suggestion. We will work on this idea and make a file available for reference in the future.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
abosolutly stunning!
Luv the jacket! Nice job!
Very cute! You did a nice job!
Dear Tina_lopez,
I would love to see your makeup bag. If you can please post it in our member project gallery.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jnjewel,
I am happy to be of help and hope that you will advance in your sewing abilities. Doing work and accomplishing projects by hand is a real source of pleasure and happiness. When we create something by hand we appreciate it much more and want to keep it, even if it doesn't fit any more or gets old and out of style.
Most of the things I have done by hand over the years I still keep and treasure.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Tina_lopez,
Welcome to our site. Thanks for the kind words. I hope that you will be able to sew the garments that you want to make more easily now, with the help of our videos.
You may not want to sew the exact garments that I show in the videos, but you can learn a lot by watching them and increase your knowledge of sewing. Many of the techniques I teach can be used in many different projects.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I learned how by renting sewing books from my library like vogue sewing and new complete guide to sewing (readers digest) which i liked alot. it is easy to do and stores also sell bias tape makers that fold the bias strips that you've cut.
Thanks for your reply Nehzat,
I'll go with the single fold bias method. I didn't think about it before, but hand sewing is the way to go maybe for this garment as you sugested.
I realize that real couture sewing means a lot of hand work. Before I made a lot of garments with fast and quick way with cheap fabric, but nowadays, I truly appreciate the handwork and couture sewing, AND a quality fabric.
I feel like I'm in the next phase of sewing journey, and am enjoying it with e-sewing workshop.com.
Jnjewel
Yes, now it's clear.
I'm so excited that now I can create my own patterns, and I don't have to rely on the commercial patterns.
It's a great feeling!
Thank you, Nehzat.
Jnjewel
Dear jnjewel
I believe I understand your confusion.
In order to make any of these adjustments to the side seam when we have a side bust dart, we need to tape closed the side bust dart. Then as you mentioned we add or deduct one quarter of our total adjustment out or in along the bust dart line.
If there are any adjustments needed along the waistline, we will mark a quarter of this along its deepest part. Remember that some of this waistline adjustment can also be accomplished by adjusting the intake of the waist darts.
Once this is done you can connect the marks to get your new side seam.
When you draw upward and reach the armhole line the armhole will be affected, this is normal. In this situation if your garment is sleeve less, make sure that the facing and the lining are adjusted accordingly. If your garment has sleeves then you need to adjust the sleeve pattern as well.
When adjusting the sleeve seams draw the lines down to the bottom or merge them somewhere in between. Or you can adjust the bottom of the sleeve pattern and connect the points.
When we want to compare a block pattern without seam allowances to a ready made pattern which includes seam allowances, we need to draw the seam lines on the ready made pattern first using the instructions it comes with.
I hope this is clear for you.
happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jnjewel,
You can sew all the seams using the French seam style. But to finish the raw edge of the armhole seam allowances, I prefer doing a single fold binding. This will work very well even when we have lots of gather at the sleeve caps. I suggest you bind both of the seam allowances of the armhole and sleeve together so that you have one binding around each armhole seam allowance.
Doing this will smooth out the seam allowance at the sleeve caps where you have the gathered fabric. Make sure to press the seam allowances before doing the binding to keep the allowances flat.
You can use the same material as the blouse or a lining fabric for the bias strips. Sometimes lining fabric works better, especially if your fabric is chiffon or georgette which are hard to handle. If you prefer using the same fabric to do the binding you can use slip stitches by hand instead of sewing by machine.
Click Here to find a single fold binding sample.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear jules31,
Welcome to our site. Thanks for your encouragement and kind words. I hope you will benefit from our lessons and share your work with us.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear 1glenda
Happy to hear the explanation helped out.
Nehzat