There are different thing to look for in order to tell if a garment is cut on a bias. Whether it is a picture or an actual garment.
- We can see that the grain line is cut at a 45 degree angle instead of straight lines.
- Some times on garments that are cut full circle or half circle, you may see that some of the grain lines are at an angle and some of them are straight. This is the nature of a circular cut. If a garment was cut at a 45 degree angle you would not see any straight grain lines.
- If you can not see the grain line in a picture, you can still say that the garment is cut on a bias by the way it falls on the body. For example if there are any pleats on the garment the folds look rounder compared to pleats cut on a straight grain line, which look flatter at the folds. Another example, on a skirt that is cut on a bias the hemline looks a little stretched out, since fabric stretch more along their bias.
- It is also possible to eliminate some of the darts when a garment is cut on a bias and still get the garment to be a fitted. However when cutting on a straight grain line, to get the garment to be fitted you need to have all the darts or transfer their intakes to the cut lines.
- Garments cut on a bias have a softer look to them as well
If you are doing everthing correctly then perhaps there is some problems with the sewing machine.
Did you get the Singer sales people to demo to you on the basics of the particular model that you bought? Perhaps you could take the sewing machine back to the shop and request that they look into your problem. Afterall it is still under warranty.
Dear Nehzat, I carried out your sugestions but the top thread still tangles on the area where the bobbin is inserted.I also observed from the little number of stitches achieved,that the down thread is not sewing,despite being picked up by the needle,via the foot press before the commencement of sewing. Of course the usual ceasure ,pulling and cutting off the thread continues to dampen my zeal for sewing.When I removed both the top and down thread,the machine runs pretty good without them.Just wish I can sew without threading.Please your advice will be apreciated.THANKS FOR YOUR BIG HEART OF LOVE.GOD BLESS AND STRENGHTEN YOU FOR THE GOOD WORK YOU ARE DOING.
Below you can find an edited version of your picture. I drew some red lines and labelled them to help explain what you need to do to draft a pattern for this dress.
To get the same shape and look to your dress as the pictured dress, you need to cut your fabric on a bias.
All the red lines I have drawn on the dress indicate the seam lines.
Use the bodice and skirt block pattern video lessons to draft your own dress block pattern.
The C seam is taking the place of the waist darts on the bodice and skirt patterns. This seam has absorbed their intakes.
To create the pleats you see in the center front of the dress, you need to draw 3 lines from the center front line of the bodice block pattern to the bust point with about 3 cm distance between them. Then cut these lines, close the bust dart and then fan out the cut lines.
The E seam, C seam and side seam form a separate piece on the sides of the dress.
For the sleeve you need to extend out the shoulder lines to draft the top of the sleeve. The under arm section of the sleeve is drafted like a set-in sleeve.
There are a number off things that might cause the threads to tangle.
1. Everything might be done correctly, but when you start sewing you need to hold the top thread that is hanging behind the presser foot tightly without pulling it. Hold it for at least two stitches.
2. Make sure you bring the bobbin thread to the top after inserting the bobbin case
3. Check to see that the bobbin thread tension is okay (not too loose not too tight)
4. Check the top thread tension as well again (not too loose not too tight)
5. It could also be that the needle is not inserted correctly (in the right direction or not inserted all the way up in it's place)
6. Also check to make sure that the bobbin is inserted in the bobbin case correctly
7. The bobbin case should also be inserted correctly
8. If the bobbin is wound loosely you might experience tangling as well
9. Also if the thread is too thick for the needle or too stiff the thread might tangle
10. Both the top and bobbin threads should be the same material and thickness
11. Make sure that the needle point is not blunt
I suggest you re-watch the sewing machine essentials video lessons again. Watch the lessons with the machine that is similar to yours and then the sewing section as well.
I suggest that you take measurements with the diapers on to draft the patterns.
You may also choose to not sew the darts on the back to give extra room to pull up the pants.
When drafting the waistband pattern add the intake of the back darts to the length of the waistband.
Insert an elastic band on the back of the waistband from one side seam to the other, make sure not to use interfacing in this section.
To make the pants more comfortable you may also choose to not sew the darts on the front either and add the intake to the waistband as well. Then insert an elastic band for the whole waistband. This will make the pants even more comfortable and easier to pull up.
If you plan to eliminate the zipper you can also draft the side seams without any curves from the hiplines to the waist and add extra amount to the side seams from the top to the bottom or anywhere in between on both the front and back patterns. Then you can add the seam allowances.
If the sleeves are two piece sleeves you can take in from both seams.
If there is only one seam you take in all the amount from that seam.
First detach the sleeve. I mark three locations on each sleeve cap, and two marks on the armholes, one on the back and one on the front.
Since you have to detach the sleeve completely, you need to mark one point at the bottom of the armhole on the jacket and on in the same spot on the sleeve. Again use the same method I used to mark the other points. This way you will have reference points to be able to attach the sleeves back on.
When you do a fitting you may notice that the points do not line up. This is fine as long as both sleeves are aligned the same way in relation to the armholes.
First do all the markings needed.
Then separate the sleeves.
Then take in the amount you need on both seams of each panel under the arm using basting.
Then take in the amount you need from the sleeves using basting.
Do a fitting and pin one sleeve to the armhole.
Follow the steps in the above mentioned video lesson to connect both sleeves back on.
When we have panels under the arms, it is much better to take in from both sides of the panel. Doing this makes the difference in levels at the top of the seams much less, compared to taking in only on one seam. The same applies to two piece sleeves.
This really depends on the fabric you are using and the effect you are looking for. Even if you are using a very fine fabric you may not want to stiffen it.
It is always best to test fusible interfacing or stabilizers on a piece of your fabric first. Try with light weight first and work your way up if needed.
Always preshrink your materials.
To wash your work use gentle detergents and wash by hand or on delicate cycle. If you intend to wash by machine use a lingerie bag to protect the stitching.
There are no set rules about adding wearing ease. As you mentioned it all depends on your own preferences.
That is why when ever you want to add any ease to a pattern you should always test it on muslin first.
Once you try on your muslin garment, you can make any extra adjustments by taking in or letting out wherever you want to.
Once you are satisfied with the fit you can transfer these changes to your pattern.
The instructions in the book regarding adding ease to the armhole sound good to me. This is needed if you are planning to sew sleeves to the armholes. Again make sure to test the fit on muslin.
First make sure that you have measured your waistline, upper hip and lower hip circumferences correctly.
It is possible for the upper hip measurement of the pattern to be larger than the actual upper hip circumference of the body. This occurs when the body is flatter between the waistline and the lower hip area.
To fix this on your pattern you need to extend the dart lengths. Extend the center line of each dart down by several cm. Then start by measuring 2 cm below the dart points and mark.
Now you need to redraw the dart legs. Use a different colored pencil. You will notice that you have widened the darts a bit along the upper hipline.
Re-measure the upper hipline and compare the difference with your actual measurement. If you need to, extend the dart legs a bit further down until the upper hip measurement of the pattern is a bit less than your actual measurement. This way you can add a bit to the upper hiplines on the front and back pattern side seams and draw a curved line down to the lower hipline.
Even if the difference is 2 to 3 mm on each side seam of the front and back patterns, this will be enough to let you draw the curved lines you need for the side seams.
before i got your message I went ahead and tried altering the crotch as you show in one of your videos. The one where you show how to fold from the crotch out to the side seams.your side seam doesnt change a bit. Its not bad and fits so much better! I will have to try your suggestion on the next pair. I think I may be a bit more pleased. Thanks so much for your help Nehzat! = )
You can draw a line below and parallel to the waistline on the pattern that has a distance to the waistline that you want. Then add the seam allowance to this new line. Note that the new waistband will be larger since it is lower than the waistline.
Dear Carol,
There are different thing to look for in order to tell if a garment is cut on a bias. Whether it is a picture or an actual garment.
- We can see that the grain line is cut at a 45 degree angle instead of straight lines.
- Some times on garments that are cut full circle or half circle, you may see that some of the grain lines are at an angle and some of them are straight. This is the nature of a circular cut. If a garment was cut at a 45 degree angle you would not see any straight grain lines.
- If you can not see the grain line in a picture, you can still say that the garment is cut on a bias by the way it falls on the body. For example if there are any pleats on the garment the folds look rounder compared to pleats cut on a straight grain line, which look flatter at the folds. Another example, on a skirt that is cut on a bias the hemline looks a little stretched out, since fabric stretch more along their bias.
- It is also possible to eliminate some of the darts when a garment is cut on a bias and still get the garment to be a fitted. However when cutting on a straight grain line, to get the garment to be fitted you need to have all the darts or transfer their intakes to the cut lines.
- Garments cut on a bias have a softer look to them as well
Hope this explain it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Vida,
If you are doing everthing correctly then perhaps there is some problems with the sewing machine.
Did you get the Singer sales people to demo to you on the basics of the particular model that you bought? Perhaps you could take the sewing machine back to the shop and request that they look into your problem. Afterall it is still under warranty.
Just my 2 cents.
Barbara
Dear Nehzat, I carried out your sugestions but the top thread still tangles on the area where the bobbin is inserted.I also observed from the little number of stitches achieved,that the down thread is not sewing,despite being picked up by the needle,via the foot press before the commencement of sewing. Of course the usual ceasure ,pulling and cutting off the thread continues to dampen my zeal for sewing.When I removed both the top and down thread,the machine runs pretty good without them.Just wish I can sew without threading.Please your advice will be apreciated.THANKS FOR YOUR BIG HEART OF LOVE.GOD BLESS AND STRENGHTEN YOU FOR THE GOOD WORK YOU ARE DOING.
Vida.
Hi Nehzat!
Thank you so much for taking your time to instruct me to make a pattern of this dress.
Have a great weekend!
Dresslover.
God bless you Nehzat for your counsel.
I will surely act on it and give you a feed back.
Thanks.
Vida.
Dear Dresslover,
Below you can find an edited version of your picture. I drew some red lines and labelled them to help explain what you need to do to draft a pattern for this dress.
To get the same shape and look to your dress as the pictured dress, you need to cut your fabric on a bias.
All the red lines I have drawn on the dress indicate the seam lines.
Use the bodice and skirt block pattern video lessons to draft your own dress block pattern.
The C seam is taking the place of the waist darts on the bodice and skirt patterns. This seam has absorbed their intakes.
To create the pleats you see in the center front of the dress, you need to draw 3 lines from the center front line of the bodice block pattern to the bust point with about 3 cm distance between them. Then cut these lines, close the bust dart and then fan out the cut lines.
The E seam, C seam and side seam form a separate piece on the sides of the dress.
For the sleeve you need to extend out the shoulder lines to draft the top of the sleeve. The under arm section of the sleeve is drafted like a set-in sleeve.
I hope this helps you.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear VIDA,
There are a number off things that might cause the threads to tangle.
1. Everything might be done correctly, but when you start sewing you need to hold the top thread that is hanging behind the presser foot tightly without pulling it. Hold it for at least two stitches.
2. Make sure you bring the bobbin thread to the top after inserting the bobbin case
3. Check to see that the bobbin thread tension is okay (not too loose not too tight)
4. Check the top thread tension as well again (not too loose not too tight)
5. It could also be that the needle is not inserted correctly (in the right direction or not inserted all the way up in it's place)
6. Also check to make sure that the bobbin is inserted in the bobbin case correctly
7. The bobbin case should also be inserted correctly
8. If the bobbin is wound loosely you might experience tangling as well
9. Also if the thread is too thick for the needle or too stiff the thread might tangle
10. Both the top and bobbin threads should be the same material and thickness
11. Make sure that the needle point is not blunt
I suggest you re-watch the sewing machine essentials video lessons again. Watch the lessons with the machine that is similar to yours and then the sewing section as well.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear eliseeker,
Thanks for the kind words. Yes you would start on the shoulder seam first.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you so much for answering me so quickly! I am so impressed with your site. I am I right in assuming the shoulder work must be done first?
I have never seen anything as wonderful as these videos. I have been sewing for years, even made suits, but I can see I have much to learn.
Again, thank you.
Dear Sew 72,
I suggest that you take measurements with the diapers on to draft the patterns.
You may also choose to not sew the darts on the back to give extra room to pull up the pants.
When drafting the waistband pattern add the intake of the back darts to the length of the waistband.
Insert an elastic band on the back of the waistband from one side seam to the other, make sure not to use interfacing in this section.
To make the pants more comfortable you may also choose to not sew the darts on the front either and add the intake to the waistband as well. Then insert an elastic band for the whole waistband. This will make the pants even more comfortable and easier to pull up.
If you plan to eliminate the zipper you can also draft the side seams without any curves from the hiplines to the waist and add extra amount to the side seams from the top to the bottom or anywhere in between on both the front and back patterns. Then you can add the seam allowances.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear eliseeker,
First I recommend that you watch the Shoulder Shortening Video Lesson carefully to learn the steps.
If the sleeves are two piece sleeves you can take in from both seams.
If there is only one seam you take in all the amount from that seam.
First detach the sleeve. I mark three locations on each sleeve cap, and two marks on the armholes, one on the back and one on the front.
Since you have to detach the sleeve completely, you need to mark one point at the bottom of the armhole on the jacket and on in the same spot on the sleeve. Again use the same method I used to mark the other points. This way you will have reference points to be able to attach the sleeves back on.
When you do a fitting you may notice that the points do not line up. This is fine as long as both sleeves are aligned the same way in relation to the armholes.
First do all the markings needed.
Then separate the sleeves.
Then take in the amount you need on both seams of each panel under the arm using basting.
Then take in the amount you need from the sleeves using basting.
Do a fitting and pin one sleeve to the armhole.
Follow the steps in the above mentioned video lesson to connect both sleeves back on.
When we have panels under the arms, it is much better to take in from both sides of the panel. Doing this makes the difference in levels at the top of the seams much less, compared to taking in only on one seam. The same applies to two piece sleeves.
I hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Tina,
The next video lesson will be released on the last week of September.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat,
Thanks so much for your clear explaination.
I realise I have to use the full figure way of measuring as I think I might have measured wrongly.
I'll go through the video and seek your advice again if I encounter any difficulties.
Thanks
Agnes
Appreciate your advice. Thank you Nehzat.
Barbara
great... i'm so excited...
Dear Barbara,
This really depends on the fabric you are using and the effect you are looking for. Even if you are using a very fine fabric you may not want to stiffen it.
It is always best to test fusible interfacing or stabilizers on a piece of your fabric first. Try with light weight first and work your way up if needed.
Always preshrink your materials.
To wash your work use gentle detergents and wash by hand or on delicate cycle. If you intend to wash by machine use a lingerie bag to protect the stitching.
Always press from the wrong side.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you, very much, Nehzat, your help with my questions is very much appreciated!
Sincerely,
Carol
Thank you Nehzat. I will try your suggestion.
Barbara
Dear Carol,
There are no set rules about adding wearing ease. As you mentioned it all depends on your own preferences.
That is why when ever you want to add any ease to a pattern you should always test it on muslin first.
Once you try on your muslin garment, you can make any extra adjustments by taking in or letting out wherever you want to.
Once you are satisfied with the fit you can transfer these changes to your pattern.
The instructions in the book regarding adding ease to the armhole sound good to me. This is needed if you are planning to sew sleeves to the armholes. Again make sure to test the fit on muslin.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Barbara,
You can add 7 to 10 cm along the hemlines at the side seams on the front and back patterns.
Make sure to add the same amount to both the front and back side seams.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear atan,
First make sure that you have measured your waistline, upper hip and lower hip circumferences correctly.
It is possible for the upper hip measurement of the pattern to be larger than the actual upper hip circumference of the body. This occurs when the body is flatter between the waistline and the lower hip area.
To fix this on your pattern you need to extend the dart lengths. Extend the center line of each dart down by several cm. Then start by measuring 2 cm below the dart points and mark.
Now you need to redraw the dart legs. Use a different colored pencil. You will notice that you have widened the darts a bit along the upper hipline.
Re-measure the upper hipline and compare the difference with your actual measurement. If you need to, extend the dart legs a bit further down until the upper hip measurement of the pattern is a bit less than your actual measurement. This way you can add a bit to the upper hiplines on the front and back pattern side seams and draw a curved line down to the lower hipline.
Even if the difference is 2 to 3 mm on each side seam of the front and back patterns, this will be enough to let you draw the curved lines you need for the side seams.
I hope this helps you out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear nmcl,
Thanks for the kind words. We will make a video lesson on how to make a personal dress form in the near future.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I will wait for the video to get a better understanding. But in the mean time referring to your comment that you made here:
http://esewingworkshop.com/forum/skirt-ankles#comment-567
Do I need to extend 15cm to the hem line for a below the knee length skirt? If not, how much would be appropriate?
TIA.
Barbara
before i got your message I went ahead and tried altering the crotch as you show in one of your videos. The one where you show how to fold from the crotch out to the side seams.your side seam doesnt change a bit. Its not bad and fits so much better! I will have to try your suggestion on the next pair. I think I may be a bit more pleased. Thanks so much for your help Nehzat! = )
Dear Tina,
You can draw a line below and parallel to the waistline on the pattern that has a distance to the waistline that you want. Then add the seam allowance to this new line. Note that the new waistband will be larger since it is lower than the waistline.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing
Nehzat