When we sew a skirt the shell darts always lay towards the center front and the center back. But for the lining the darts lay in the opposite direction. This way we reduce the bulk.
To add ease to the skirt you only add ease to the sides not the center back.
Thanks to every one that counseled and suported me during my trials with my new singer hand -sewing machine.I returned it to the shop where I bought it and they carried out some adjustments and demontrations for me.Now my machine is working perfectly well. I apreciate your love, especially Nehzat and Barbara. God bless you all.
I was able to solve my last problem, But now I've encounted another. I was watching the video. I think 19, where both the back and front shoulder slopes are aligned and a new armhole is formed. Well, My measurements between X & T are exactly the same as given in the video, 34cm and when divided my 2 is 17. Now when drawing the new shoulder slope, it does not fall on the back pattern rather on the front. I continued to follow the video anyway thinking that perhaps I can transfer the point to the back pattern, but I can't as the point does not fall on the back pattern at all. Please where have I gone wrong?
Thank you for your reply. As a result of the problem with the shoulder slope. I went ahead and made another block pattern incase I had done my calculations incorrectly. I have again encountered the same problem. The back shoulder slope is still longer than the front, even after closing the shoulder dart. I can't seem to figure out why without having to start all over again Please could you tell me where I might have gone wrong?
Thanks so much, I needed to show the snap buttons on garments for this lesson, so I sewed the two garments quickly. I will be looking into making videos in the future on how to make the patterns for children garments and then sew them.
The skirt can be sewn very quickly both for adults and children. It is a half circle skirt.
Thanks for the kind words. In standard figures the front bodice length is longer than the back bodice length because of the busts. The necklines are always the same width on the front and back patterns. If you calculated the measurements correctly or if you measured and marked correctly there should not be any problems for the necklines.
When we want to center the shoulder lines we need to match the front and back shoulder lines from the neckline. Because the back shoulder line has a bigger slope than the front it is always drawn longer than the front shoulder slope. In this chapter: 19. Centering the Shoulder Slopes and Aligning the Armholes from the Bodice block pattern video lesson you can learn how to make both the front and back shoulder slopes the same length.
I don't own a serger, so I have to take my garments in progress to the shop a couple of times to get it serged.
When I saw your videos and you were using solely zigzag stitches, I got excited. As I surely can do zigzag stitches on my regular home sewing machine.
Also I've read that for couture sewing serging is not done so does that mean zigzag stitches is okay? And is it durable enough for the garment to be machine washed?
Yes you can use the same method. Later you need to check the crotch length on your pattern and compare it with the crotch length on the body and make the adjustments according to the body shape.
I've used Fray Check and found that it leaves the fabric stiff and does show on some fabrics (test on scrap first). Fray Guard (different product) leaves the fabric pliable. Sometimes I use fabric glue on a small, non-conspicuous job.
I have a Pfaff Select 4.0 myself. This machine is similar to yours. However I have not sewn leather with it yet. I had an older Pfaff that I purchased about 35 years ago that I sometimes sewed leather with as well. I dont remember the model number. But the leather was soft and thin.
I am interested to see if this Pfaff can sew leather as well. When I find out I will let you know.
I have a Pfaff Select 4.0 myself. This machine is similar to yours. However I have not sewn leather with it yet. I had an older Pfaff that I purchased about 35 years ago that I sometimes sewed leather with as well. I dont remember the model number. But the leather was soft and thin.
I am interested to see if this Pfaff can sew leather as well. When I find out I will let you know.
Grading seam allowances is when we trim one of the seam allowances to make it narrower than the other one. We do this when the seam allowance is not pressed open. This way we reduce the bulk at the seams.
I once saw someone make their own... on tv... it was done too fast for me to catch it all... so I was never able to do it since I had missed the beginning of it... it would be nice to learn how to do your own to your own measurement... she had done it with sticky packing paper that you dip in water like wall paper her name was Angellina DiBello... she has since pass away... I would be very interested in learning on how to do my own
"...do a french seam. works on all types of fabric even the bulky ones. The trick to bulky fabrics is to "grade the seam" to take out the bulk, so the seam lays flatter and nicer."
How do you do the grading described in the above comment?
Thank you, very much, Nehzat. Your answer was very informative and helpful. It's exciting to be able to have someone answer questions that come up. We can build on our knowledge, thanks to you, and progress forward. I really appreciate having a teacher!!!
I agree with Barbara, the best thing to do is to take in your machine to the store you got it from or somewhere where they sell or repair them and have someone look at it for you. There might be a mechanical problem with it.
You can draw the center line of the dart and then extend it to the hemline. Then cut the line so you have two pieces for your sleeve. Label the pieces so you know which is the front piece and which the back.
Since you have created a seam here, you need to add seam allowances for each piece along the new seam line.
With a seam here your garment will have a smoother look compared to when you had the dart at the top of the raglan sleeve.
Dear Carol,
When we sew a skirt the shell darts always lay towards the center front and the center back. But for the lining the darts lay in the opposite direction. This way we reduce the bulk.
To add ease to the skirt you only add ease to the sides not the center back.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Most welcome Vida.
So glad that your machine is working super well! And thanks for letting us know.
Barbara
Thanks to every one that counseled and suported me during my trials with my new singer hand -sewing machine.I returned it to the shop where I bought it and they carried out some adjustments and demontrations for me.Now my machine is working perfectly well. I apreciate your love, especially Nehzat and Barbara. God bless you all.
Vida.
Dear Nehzat,
I was able to solve my last problem, But now I've encounted another. I was watching the video. I think 19, where both the back and front shoulder slopes are aligned and a new armhole is formed. Well, My measurements between X & T are exactly the same as given in the video, 34cm and when divided my 2 is 17. Now when drawing the new shoulder slope, it does not fall on the back pattern rather on the front. I continued to follow the video anyway thinking that perhaps I can transfer the point to the back pattern, but I can't as the point does not fall on the back pattern at all. Please where have I gone wrong?
I hope this makes sense.
Kind regards
J
Dear Nehzat,
Thank you for your reply. As a result of the problem with the shoulder slope. I went ahead and made another block pattern incase I had done my calculations incorrectly. I have again encountered the same problem. The back shoulder slope is still longer than the front, even after closing the shoulder dart. I can't seem to figure out why without having to start all over again Please could you tell me where I might have gone wrong?
Thank you so much.
J.
Dear Sharron,
Thanks so much, I needed to show the snap buttons on garments for this lesson, so I sewed the two garments quickly. I will be looking into making videos in the future on how to make the patterns for children garments and then sew them.
The skirt can be sewn very quickly both for adults and children. It is a half circle skirt.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear J,
Thanks for the kind words. In standard figures the front bodice length is longer than the back bodice length because of the busts. The necklines are always the same width on the front and back patterns. If you calculated the measurements correctly or if you measured and marked correctly there should not be any problems for the necklines.
When we want to center the shoulder lines we need to match the front and back shoulder lines from the neckline. Because the back shoulder line has a bigger slope than the front it is always drawn longer than the front shoulder slope. In this chapter: 19. Centering the Shoulder Slopes and Aligning the Armholes from the Bodice block pattern video lesson you can learn how to make both the front and back shoulder slopes the same length.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear Barbara,
Yes zigzag stitches work very well when finishing raw edges. They are also strong enough to withstand washing by hand or machine.
If the fabric you are using is loosely woven or the yarns used to weave it are thick, you need to sew the zigzag stitches on a wider setting.
Also make sure to reduce the thread tension a bit compared to straight stitches for the same fabric.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I don't own a serger, so I have to take my garments in progress to the shop a couple of times to get it serged.
When I saw your videos and you were using solely zigzag stitches, I got excited. As I surely can do zigzag stitches on my regular home sewing machine.
Also I've read that for couture sewing serging is not done so does that mean zigzag stitches is okay? And is it durable enough for the garment to be machine washed?
Barbara
Dear garmas28,
Yes you can use the same method. Later you need to check the crotch length on your pattern and compare it with the crotch length on the body and make the adjustments according to the body shape.
Watch the Pants Pattern Alteration (Adjustment) for Different Body Shapes Video Lessons to learn how to make the adjustments.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I've used Fray Check and found that it leaves the fabric stiff and does show on some fabrics (test on scrap first). Fray Guard (different product) leaves the fabric pliable. Sometimes I use fabric glue on a small, non-conspicuous job.
Dear Boohbee,
Yes Pattern grading is something that I want to teach as well. There have been other request regarding this topic. Thanks for your suggestion.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear savedbygrace,
This topic is in our list for future lessons. Soon we will be working on it.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear LadyMoonShine,
I have a Pfaff Select 4.0 myself. This machine is similar to yours. However I have not sewn leather with it yet. I had an older Pfaff that I purchased about 35 years ago that I sometimes sewed leather with as well. I dont remember the model number. But the leather was soft and thin.
I am interested to see if this Pfaff can sew leather as well. When I find out I will let you know.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear LadyMoonShine,
I have a Pfaff Select 4.0 myself. This machine is similar to yours. However I have not sewn leather with it yet. I had an older Pfaff that I purchased about 35 years ago that I sometimes sewed leather with as well. I dont remember the model number. But the leather was soft and thin.
I am interested to see if this Pfaff can sew leather as well. When I find out I will let you know.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear BOOHBEE,
Grading seam allowances is when we trim one of the seam allowances to make it narrower than the other one. We do this when the seam allowance is not pressed open. This way we reduce the bulk at the seams.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I once saw someone make their own... on tv... it was done too fast for me to catch it all... so I was never able to do it since I had missed the beginning of it... it would be nice to learn how to do your own to your own measurement... she had done it with sticky packing paper that you dip in water like wall paper her name was Angellina DiBello... she has since pass away... I would be very interested in learning on how to do my own
"...do a french seam. works on all types of fabric even the bulky ones. The trick to bulky fabrics is to "grade the seam" to take out the bulk, so the seam lays flatter and nicer."
How do you do the grading described in the above comment?
Just for fun, I put a label on the dressform and named her Sewnya :)
Thank-You Nehzat, I will do that.
Veronica
Thank you, very much, Nehzat. Your answer was very informative and helpful. It's exciting to be able to have someone answer questions that come up. We can build on our knowledge, thanks to you, and progress forward. I really appreciate having a teacher!!!
Thank you,
Carol
Thanks Barbara & Nehzat.
I will take the machine back to the store from where I bought it, for them to look at it or replace it.
I still have the fire for sewing.Be sure to be briefed later.
God bless you .
Vida.
This dress is absolutely beautiful....
Dear Vida,
I agree with Barbara, the best thing to do is to take in your machine to the store you got it from or somewhere where they sell or repair them and have someone look at it for you. There might be a mechanical problem with it.
Don't give up, it will be fixed or replaced soon.
Nehzat
Dear Veronica,
You can draw the center line of the dart and then extend it to the hemline. Then cut the line so you have two pieces for your sleeve. Label the pieces so you know which is the front piece and which the back.
Since you have created a seam here, you need to add seam allowances for each piece along the new seam line.
With a seam here your garment will have a smoother look compared to when you had the dart at the top of the raglan sleeve.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat