Thank you very much for the kind words. I suggest that you practice on a fabric that is not slippery first, such as voile, wich is sheer and made of 100 percent cotton. Also make sure to use a fine and sharp needle and good quality fine thread to make it easier to work with.
These two chapters from the Hand Sewing Essentials Video Lesson should help you as well.
Watch the rolled hem lesson again, paying close attention to how I roll the hem and pass the needle trough the rolled fabric and catch the flat fabric. Make sure to roll the fabric the same amount each time, keeping the tightness of the roll even as you sew. The rolled fabric has to stay taut as you sew the stitches.
If our hands are very dry this will make it harder to roll the fabric between our fingers, so try to moisturize your hands a bit before hand. To avoid marking the fabric with the lotion use a water based moisturizer and wait a bit before starting to work on your project.
What I do is after moisturizing may hands well, I wash my hand quickly with cold water and dry them before working on fabrics that may stain.
It seams that you want the pleats to start from the waistline.
I believe your pleats should be 2.5 cm instead of 1.5 cm as you mentioned they are 1 inch wide, this way the 5 cm depth works out well.
Since the dept of each pleat is exactly double the width of the pleats, you will need 3 times your waist circumference in fabric, plus seam allowances. 66 cm X 3 = 198 cm. You will need to purchase two widths of fabric and join them to be able to get 198 cm plus your seam allowances.
If we assume the lenght of your skirt is about 50 cm, it means you need to purchase two lengths of fabric of 50 cm, plus hem allowance and waistline seam allowance.
You can also cut your waistband from the excess fabric you get on the sides.
Thanks so much for the kind words. Since we dont have a picture from the back, We can assume that the back is the same style as the front.
You can place the zipper on the side seam, this way the back will look nicer. The ruching is sewn on a flat yoke, this yoke can have all the waist and center back darts to give it the shape of the body better. The ruching has no darts and is cut on a bias, then it is formed and sewn on the yoke.
Thank you for your response and I do apologise for not clarifying which dart I was referring to. I am new to the forum & still finding my feet. I have really enjoy your lessons so far, they keep me up because I usually want to learn the next stage. I was referring to the closure of the waistline dart in my earlier mail. Please see attached in an email of the skirt I wish to replicate to the support email address.. It is gathered and sort of flared & hence has no dart.
You are very welcome. I am very happy and impressed with your work. Your cushions look amazing, keep up the good work. Also thanks for sharing with our community, looking forward to seeing your other projects.
You can increase the circumference of either the upper hip, lower hip or the bust circumference, depending on which ever is larger.
Which ever you choose, increase the circumference between 1.5 times to 2 times the original. Then add it to your pattern.
For example, if your bust circumference is the larger one, and it is 100 cm in circumference. You can add another 50 to 100 cm more to the pattern in total, below the yoke. This will allow you to gather the fabric and make it comfortable to sleep in the nightgown.
In this chapter, link below, I explain how to lay the pattern on your table to find out how much fabric you need to buy, depending on the width of the fabric. Although this is a pants sewing lesson, the instructions can apply to any type of project.
When we are making a garment, we can have four waist darts on the front and four waist darts on back instead of two on each side. This way the intake is spread out more and lets the fabric lay flat against the body at the dart point.
If someone has a small waist compared to their hip circumference, we can have even more darts on the front and back.
For someone with a flat tummy we can reduce the intake of the front darts and add it to the side seams and back waist darts. This can also apply to someone with a flatter buttocks, by doing this to the back pattern instead of the front.
To make a fitted bodice we can not eliminate the waist dart, unless the person has a protruding tummy. To avoid the situation you mentioned, you can do a few things.
1 - Let out from the waist dart
2 - Increase the number of waist darts on the front (create another shorter dart between the
original one and the side seam)
We are also going to make video instructions on how to adjust the skirt block pattern for different body shapes. Thanks for your suggestion.
To draft your block pattern for bodice, skirt or pants you use your exact body measurements. Later depending on the style you want to sew, you can add ease and/or design ease to your pattern.
Next test your block pattern using muslin fabric.
At this point your muslin garment should be a fitted one.
To make it as large as you want, you can let out from the seams and darts.
For something much larger you need to have wider seam allowances around your pattern, so that you have enough room to let out from the seams. You will need to do another fitting at this point to make sure your muslin garment looks as you want it to.
The amount of ease can vary according to your tastes from just a few mm to several cm or more.
I am not sure which darts you want to close, the side bust darts or the waist darts. Also does your waistline have a seam? There are some needed adjustments for the style you want to sew on the top of the skirt section, because of the yoke you mentioned. I need to know what is the style of the yoke on the back and the front as well.
Can you please draw me a sketch of the back and the front of the dress, it doesnt have to be professionally done. Make sure to draw the seams and the dart locations. This way I will be able to help you. I will include my own drawings in my answer.
You can scan or take a picture of your drawing and send them to me via email or post them here. email is support@esewingworkshop.com
In the future I will make video lessons on how to draft patterns and sew children’s clothing. In the mean time you can use the pants block pattern making video lesson. Make sure to sew the pants using muslin first, so that you can make the adjustments on the pattern after the fitting.
Thanks so much, I am happy to see that you have learned how to draft your own patterns.
When someone has slimmer arms the difference between the midpoint of the upper arm down to the wrist on the pattern will be greater, than some one who has fuller arms. If you want you can take in some of the excess in these areas.
However the arm cap width and the bicep line will have about the same amount of ease as shown in the semi fitted sleeve video lesson.
When you pre-wash your fabric just remember to test your tracing paper (waxed) color or tracing pencil on the fabric. Once you have finished washing, drying and pressing you can see the results of your pattern marks tests.
You need to divide the difference between the lower hip circumference and the waist circumference by 9. So in your case 7 inches divided by 9.
7 inches is 17.78 cm, 17.78 cm divided by 9 is 1.97 cm we round it up to 2 cm. Therefore each waist dart should be 2 cm wide. That`s about 0.8 inches. This is a perfectly acceptable amount for waist darts. A waist dart can also be much less than this. The narrower the waist compared to the lower hip, the wider the waist dart intakes. The opposite is also true.
Dear Natalie,
Thank you very much for the kind words. I suggest that you practice on a fabric that is not slippery first, such as voile, wich is sheer and made of 100 percent cotton. Also make sure to use a fine and sharp needle and good quality fine thread to make it easier to work with.
These two chapters from the Hand Sewing Essentials Video Lesson should help you as well.
6. Tying Knots (Single and Double Threads)
7. Why Do Single Threads Tangle Sometimes
Watch the rolled hem lesson again, paying close attention to how I roll the hem and pass the needle trough the rolled fabric and catch the flat fabric. Make sure to roll the fabric the same amount each time, keeping the tightness of the roll even as you sew. The rolled fabric has to stay taut as you sew the stitches.
If our hands are very dry this will make it harder to roll the fabric between our fingers, so try to moisturize your hands a bit before hand. To avoid marking the fabric with the lotion use a water based moisturizer and wait a bit before starting to work on your project.
What I do is after moisturizing may hands well, I wash my hand quickly with cold water and dry them before working on fabrics that may stain.
Hope this helps,
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Nehzat
Thanks for your help! Yes, the back is the same as the front & the zip is on the side.
Much appreciated.
Shekinah
Dear Earth,
It seams that you want the pleats to start from the waistline.
I believe your pleats should be 2.5 cm instead of 1.5 cm as you mentioned they are 1 inch wide, this way the 5 cm depth works out well.
Since the dept of each pleat is exactly double the width of the pleats, you will need 3 times your waist circumference in fabric, plus seam allowances. 66 cm X 3 = 198 cm. You will need to purchase two widths of fabric and join them to be able to get 198 cm plus your seam allowances.
If we assume the lenght of your skirt is about 50 cm, it means you need to purchase two lengths of fabric of 50 cm, plus hem allowance and waistline seam allowance.
You can also cut your waistband from the excess fabric you get on the sides.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear earth
Thank you so much for the kind words, I really appreciate hearing from our members.
happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Shekinah,
Thanks so much for the kind words. Since we dont have a picture from the back, We can assume that the back is the same style as the front.
You can place the zipper on the side seam, this way the back will look nicer. The ruching is sewn on a flat yoke, this yoke can have all the waist and center back darts to give it the shape of the body better. The ruching has no darts and is cut on a bias, then it is formed and sewn on the yoke.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Nehzat
Thank you for your response and I do apologise for not clarifying which dart I was referring to. I am new to the forum & still finding my feet. I have really enjoy your lessons so far, they keep me up because I usually want to learn the next stage. I was referring to the closure of the waistline dart in my earlier mail. Please see attached in an email of the skirt I wish to replicate to the support email address.. It is gathered and sort of flared & hence has no dart.
Most appreciated!
Shekinah
Dear Glenna,
Thanks so much, yes we will make the lesson you suggested.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Serah,
You are very welcome. I am very happy and impressed with your work. Your cushions look amazing, keep up the good work. Also thanks for sharing with our community, looking forward to seeing your other projects.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear nicgir,
To learn how to make the neckline and armhole facing in one piece, you can watch this lesson link below.
Panel Dress Sewing with Princess Seams, Flared Skirt, Facing, Lining and Invisible Zipper - Online Video Lesson
Here you will learn how to draft the pattern for this type facing, cut it and sew it as well.
Hope this helps.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear glassyl1,
You can increase the circumference of either the upper hip, lower hip or the bust circumference, depending on which ever is larger.
Which ever you choose, increase the circumference between 1.5 times to 2 times the original. Then add it to your pattern.
For example, if your bust circumference is the larger one, and it is 100 cm in circumference. You can add another 50 to 100 cm more to the pattern in total, below the yoke. This will allow you to gather the fabric and make it comfortable to sleep in the nightgown.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Vi,
In this chapter, link below, I explain how to lay the pattern on your table to find out how much fabric you need to buy, depending on the width of the fabric. Although this is a pants sewing lesson, the instructions can apply to any type of project.
35 - Finding Out How Much Fabric we Need for Our Pants
Hope this helps you out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear lightprince4u,
When we are making a garment, we can have four waist darts on the front and four waist darts on back instead of two on each side. This way the intake is spread out more and lets the fabric lay flat against the body at the dart point.
If someone has a small waist compared to their hip circumference, we can have even more darts on the front and back.
For someone with a flat tummy we can reduce the intake of the front darts and add it to the side seams and back waist darts. This can also apply to someone with a flatter buttocks, by doing this to the back pattern instead of the front.
To make a fitted bodice we can not eliminate the waist dart, unless the person has a protruding tummy. To avoid the situation you mentioned, you can do a few things.
1 - Let out from the waist dart
2 - Increase the number of waist darts on the front (create another shorter dart between the
original one and the side seam)
We are also going to make video instructions on how to adjust the skirt block pattern for different body shapes. Thanks for your suggestion.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear mcad_mcsd,
Thanks for the kind words.
To draft your block pattern for bodice, skirt or pants you use your exact body measurements. Later depending on the style you want to sew, you can add ease and/or design ease to your pattern.
Next test your block pattern using muslin fabric.
At this point your muslin garment should be a fitted one.
To make it as large as you want, you can let out from the seams and darts.
For something much larger you need to have wider seam allowances around your pattern, so that you have enough room to let out from the seams. You will need to do another fitting at this point to make sure your muslin garment looks as you want it to.
The amount of ease can vary according to your tastes from just a few mm to several cm or more.
Hope this helps you out.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Shekinah,
I am not sure which darts you want to close, the side bust darts or the waist darts. Also does your waistline have a seam? There are some needed adjustments for the style you want to sew on the top of the skirt section, because of the yoke you mentioned. I need to know what is the style of the yoke on the back and the front as well.
Can you please draw me a sketch of the back and the front of the dress, it doesnt have to be professionally done. Make sure to draw the seams and the dart locations. This way I will be able to help you. I will include my own drawings in my answer.
You can scan or take a picture of your drawing and send them to me via email or post them here. email is support@esewingworkshop.com
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear sensinger,
In the future I will make video lessons on how to draft patterns and sew children’s clothing. In the mean time you can use the pants block pattern making video lesson. Make sure to sew the pants using muslin first, so that you can make the adjustments on the pattern after the fitting.
To learn more about how to adjust your pattern you can watch the below video lesson.
Pants Pattern Alteration (Adjustment) for Different Body Shapes - Online Video Lesson
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Lucy,
Thanks for joining our site, I hope that you can benefit from the lessons and advance your knowledge, and reach your goal.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
is there video how to transfer pattern from paper to cloth
Thanks. Much appreciate.
Dear Glenna,
Here is a list for the different amounts you need to add to your side bust dart based on bra cup sizes.
For A cups we add about 0 cm to 0.5 cm
For B cups we add about 0.5 cm to 1 cm
For C cups we add about 1 cm to 2 cm
For D cups we add about 2 cm to 2.5 cm
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Veronica,
Thanks so much, I am happy to see that you have learned how to draft your own patterns.
When someone has slimmer arms the difference between the midpoint of the upper arm down to the wrist on the pattern will be greater, than some one who has fuller arms. If you want you can take in some of the excess in these areas.
However the arm cap width and the bicep line will have about the same amount of ease as shown in the semi fitted sleeve video lesson.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
When you pre-wash your fabric just remember to test your tracing paper (waxed) color or tracing pencil on the fabric. Once you have finished washing, drying and pressing you can see the results of your pattern marks tests.
You need a good iron, tailors ham, sleeve board & silk organza press cloth.
So many garments have that home made look as people do not learn how to use pressing items.
Dear vi,
I meant a thimble.
Nehzat
Dear Rozmina,
You need to divide the difference between the lower hip circumference and the waist circumference by 9. So in your case 7 inches divided by 9.
7 inches is 17.78 cm, 17.78 cm divided by 9 is 1.97 cm we round it up to 2 cm. Therefore each waist dart should be 2 cm wide. That`s about 0.8 inches. This is a perfectly acceptable amount for waist darts. A waist dart can also be much less than this. The narrower the waist compared to the lower hip, the wider the waist dart intakes. The opposite is also true.
Please let me know if you have any questions.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat