Thanks for your kind words. The best thing to do is to add the ease after drafting the block pattern.
Since a black pattern is used as a basis for different styles, we don't add any ease to it to begin with. Some styles are fitted in certain parts, others may be loose fitting. By drafting a block pattern without any ease we give ourselves the freedom to add the ease when needed.
To figure out the side bust dart we divide the bust circumference by 20, then we add a number to it depending on the cup size. This will give us the side bust dart intake. Below you can find a chart pointing out the amount you can add.
For A cups we add about 0 cm to 0.5 cm
For B cups we add about 0.5 cm to 1 cm
For C cups we add about 1 cm to 2 cm
For D cups we add about 2 cm to 2.5 cm
We should always do a fitting to make sure of the fit.
To sew a skirt like this with a length of about 60 cm, you will need to have a circle of fabric with a diameter of about 164 cm.
If your fabric is not this wide, you will need to join two pieces together. I recommend that the seams fall on the sides of the skirt. This way it will look much nicer.
If the width of your fabric is less than 164 cm, you will need to buy 2 X 164 cm to be able to sew the skirt with the seams falling at the sides. That is 328 cm based on my calculations.
The best thing to do is to take a bunch of measurements from your friends and relatives, then keep these measurements in a book and use them as a tool to guide you when making garments of different sizes, without having all the measurements.
For example you want to sew a garment and the measurements for the bust, waist, and hip are close to your friend "Mary's" measurements. Now you can use Mary's other measurements like her neck circumference, shoulder width, front and back bodice length etc... to fill in the gaps.
Thx so much for your tips, Nehzat! Im so glad that I found your website! It is indeed very helpful for beginners like me. How much cloth shall I cut for this skirt? Some friend told me I may need as much as 2 metres, giving the length of skirt will be 60cm.
I just posted a subject about ease too! I am new and must have missed this. Just wanted to say you are a wonderful teacher and I hope you will continue this series with a sleeve draft and then making up the sloper pattern in muslin and showing us how to refine the fit. I really, really, really want to be able to use flat pattern design to create a wardrobe that fits.
Plackets on men's shirt sleeves are the openings in the sleeve above the cuffs that have another piece of fabric joined to them. The top part is usually pointed upward. Sometimes they have buttonholes and buttons.
It is not difficult to learn how to shorten sleeves on men's shirts. all you need to do is separate the cuffs and trim away the excess, then sew the cuffs back on. If the plackets will become too short, you may need re-do them again.
Keep one of the plackets intact and use it as an example to form the new one. You also need to pay attention because a sleeve with plackets needs to be about 2 cm longer than the arm length to be worn comfortably. Otherwise when you button up the cuffs you will feel it pull when you bend the elbows.
Sorry for the late response. The underarm length (measurement) is the distance from the top of the ribbon you tied around the biceps to the wrist. You need to follow the contours of the arm from the inside towards the body.
The depth of elbow dart underlay is the intake of the dart. This is the space between the dart legs at the elbow. It start at the underarm sleeve seam and ends in a point at the elbows. It is usually about 2 cm.
On my Singer, I need to pass the thread through the guide right above the needle then raise the needle to its highest position.
Next pass the thread through the hook on the needle threader.
Bring the threader down by pulling on its lever, as far down as possible using your left hand.
Now another very small hook of the needle threader will position itself in front of the needle eye.
The hook is facing downwards. You need to pass the thread in front of the needle and catch it on the hook. keep the thread taut in your right hand.
By rotating back and pulling the needle threader lever gently upwards to its previous position, while moving your thread towards the needle, you will make it possible to pass a small loop of thread through the needle eye.
I bought mine at Jo Ann on line in 2006 for 149.99 (a birthday gift from my husband) It has adjusters to change the size, and works well. It 's called " my double " deluxe dress form by dritz. At the time it was the most inexpensive dress form I could find, I like it alot.
We will shoot and post a video on how to sew a buttonhole by machine using both a manual and an automatic buttonhole foot. I will post for Singer and Janome sewing machines. However the videos should help you out sine all machines are similar.
Please feel free to post any pictures to the project photo albums in the community tab.
What kind of garments are you interested in learning? Do you have any formal training in sewing? I don't have the training myself but I am tyrying to teach myself. It has been encouraging so far and Nehzat is a gem I discovered for this matter. Wish you all the best! and good times too.
Dear madlil,
Thanks for your kind words. The best thing to do is to add the ease after drafting the block pattern.
Since a black pattern is used as a basis for different styles, we don't add any ease to it to begin with. Some styles are fitted in certain parts, others may be loose fitting. By drafting a block pattern without any ease we give ourselves the freedom to add the ease when needed.
To figure out the side bust dart we divide the bust circumference by 20, then we add a number to it depending on the cup size. This will give us the side bust dart intake. Below you can find a chart pointing out the amount you can add.
For A cups we add about 0 cm to 0.5 cm
For B cups we add about 0.5 cm to 1 cm
For C cups we add about 1 cm to 2 cm
For D cups we add about 2 cm to 2.5 cm
We should always do a fitting to make sure of the fit.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Milady,
To sew a skirt like this with a length of about 60 cm, you will need to have a circle of fabric with a diameter of about 164 cm.
If your fabric is not this wide, you will need to join two pieces together. I recommend that the seams fall on the sides of the skirt. This way it will look much nicer.
If the width of your fabric is less than 164 cm, you will need to buy 2 X 164 cm to be able to sew the skirt with the seams falling at the sides. That is 328 cm based on my calculations.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear meneni,
The best thing to do is to take a bunch of measurements from your friends and relatives, then keep these measurements in a book and use them as a tool to guide you when making garments of different sizes, without having all the measurements.
For example you want to sew a garment and the measurements for the bust, waist, and hip are close to your friend "Mary's" measurements. Now you can use Mary's other measurements like her neck circumference, shoulder width, front and back bodice length etc... to fill in the gaps.
I hope this helps, happy sewing.
Nehzat
Dear madlil,
Thanks for joining our community. We are always makeing more video lessons. For sure we will be expanding on the drafting lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thx so much for your tips, Nehzat! Im so glad that I found your website! It is indeed very helpful for beginners like me. How much cloth shall I cut for this skirt? Some friend told me I may need as much as 2 metres, giving the length of skirt will be 60cm.
Dear Machelle,
Welcome to eSewingWorkshop.I hope you can benefit from our lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear pmarshall,
Welcome to eSewingWorkshop, I hope you will benefit from being a member of our community.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I just posted a subject about ease too! I am new and must have missed this. Just wanted to say you are a wonderful teacher and I hope you will continue this series with a sleeve draft and then making up the sloper pattern in muslin and showing us how to refine the fit. I really, really, really want to be able to use flat pattern design to create a wardrobe that fits.
Once again I thank you Nehzat
poppop
Dear poppop,
Plackets on men's shirt sleeves are the openings in the sleeve above the cuffs that have another piece of fabric joined to them. The top part is usually pointed upward. Sometimes they have buttonholes and buttons.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Thank you Nehzat for your reply. Being a novice sewer I'm not sure what plackets are, am I right to think you mean the cufffs on the sleeve?
Once again thank you for help
POPPOP
Dear poppop,
It is not difficult to learn how to shorten sleeves on men's shirts. all you need to do is separate the cuffs and trim away the excess, then sew the cuffs back on. If the plackets will become too short, you may need re-do them again.
Keep one of the plackets intact and use it as an example to form the new one. You also need to pay attention because a sleeve with plackets needs to be about 2 cm longer than the arm length to be worn comfortably. Otherwise when you button up the cuffs you will feel it pull when you bend the elbows.
Thanks for your suggestion.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Karene22,
Welcome to the site. I hope that you will benefit from the lessons. Wish you the best.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear didi,
Sorry for the late response. The underarm length (measurement) is the distance from the top of the ribbon you tied around the biceps to the wrist. You need to follow the contours of the arm from the inside towards the body.
The depth of elbow dart underlay is the intake of the dart. This is the space between the dart legs at the elbow. It start at the underarm sleeve seam and ends in a point at the elbows. It is usually about 2 cm.
I hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear Milady,
This skirt is basically a large circle with a circular hole in the middle.
The hole is positioned for the hemline of the skirt and the outer edge of the circle is pleated around the waist.
These pleats are a combination of box and knife pleats that are positioned on each other around the waist.
I find the skirt very beautiful as well.
To upgrade your skill level you can watch our video lessons.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Dear Carollnhn,
On my Singer, I need to pass the thread through the guide right above the needle then raise the needle to its highest position.
Next pass the thread through the hook on the needle threader.
Bring the threader down by pulling on its lever, as far down as possible using your left hand.
Now another very small hook of the needle threader will position itself in front of the needle eye.
The hook is facing downwards. You need to pass the thread in front of the needle and catch it on the hook. keep the thread taut in your right hand.
By rotating back and pulling the needle threader lever gently upwards to its previous position, while moving your thread towards the needle, you will make it possible to pass a small loop of thread through the needle eye.
Open the loop and the needle is threaded.
Please let me know if this helps.
Happy sewing
Nehzat
Dear mgoodwyn,
Thanks for your kind words and welcome to our site. I hope you will benefit from the lessons.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
I bought mine at Jo Ann on line in 2006 for 149.99 (a birthday gift from my husband) It has adjusters to change the size, and works well. It 's called " my double " deluxe dress form by dritz. At the time it was the most inexpensive dress form I could find, I like it alot.
Veronica
Dear mgoodwyn,
First sew the yoke pieces together, then sew the bottom section of the skirt pieces together.
Once the yoke and the bottom section are finished, then you can sew them together.
Make sure the side seams are aligned. and the center of the yoke is centered on the middle of the bottom section.
The seam allowances between the two sections should be pressed upwards.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Dear Rhonda,
Welcome to the eSewingWorkshop I hope you can benefit from our site and our community.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Dear momtobooboo,
We will shoot and post a video on how to sew a buttonhole by machine using both a manual and an automatic buttonhole foot. I will post for Singer and Janome sewing machines. However the videos should help you out sine all machines are similar.
Please feel free to post any pictures to the project photo albums in the community tab.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
What kind of garments are you interested in learning? Do you have any formal training in sewing? I don't have the training myself but I am tyrying to teach myself. It has been encouraging so far and Nehzat is a gem I discovered for this matter. Wish you all the best! and good times too.
Very neat and perfect.
The dress is very beautiful and love how it fits.
I love this project, it is so beautiful, I wish to make such as a trial.
can you please put me throughthe cutting of the fabrics