In the video lessons list we have a dress sewing lesson and a skirt sewing lesson, where we use patterns we drafted to sew garments. Below you can find the links.
If you watch these lessons you will get an idea on how to use the patterns to cut and sew the garments. The style that you want may differ but the basic concept is the same.
I looked at a few beginning pant alteration videos but did not hear Nehzat's narration. Please can I see a clip through a link. I would love it. Thank you.
I totally second everything Laulan has written in praise for the site's improvement. She has put my thoughts well in words. There is one more thing I wish to be added. I wish there was an option for 'spell check' like google emails have. I miss things and see mistakes afterwards. it is important to be correct and helpful for other person to provide the correct answer. I hope some day you can add this feature.
You can add between 1.3 to 1.5 cm for the neckline seam allowance. Between 1.5 to 2 cm for the shoulder line. Between 1.3 to 1.5 for the armhole. 2.5 cm for the side seams and 2 to 2.5 cm for the waistline. These measurements can be applied for your pre-teen daughter as well.
Yes flat and block pattern refer to the same thing. You can use the same bodice block pattern for your daughter as well. The only difference might be that your daughter may not need bust darts because of her figure.
We will add your suggestions to our list of topics for future lessons.
In the mean time, for your collar and neckline issue, you can baste the seams of the collar and not finish it before sewing it to the neckline. Baste the collar to the neckline and see how it fits. This way you can make adjustments if needed, by taking in or letting out at the seam before sewing the collar seams by machine.
In the lesson on how to draft a full figure skirt block pattern, I teach how to measure the body and draft the pattern so that you do not encounter this type of problem. If you follow this lesson when making a skirt for your friend the back of the skirt will not rise up compared to the front.
If however you want to alter an existing skirt with this issue, you can pull up the front of the skirt below the waistband. Pinch and pin the fabric below the waistband, starting on the center front and work your way to the back on both sides. Finish before reaching the center back. It helps to look in the mirror as well while working, to see how much you need to pinch in order to level the hemline all around.
Then you need to separate the waistband and sew it back again adding the excess fabric to the seam allowance. Make sure to do a fitting before trimming the excess fabric.
Good question Louise. I want to know how much seam allowance and where for both the bodice patterns. Are these allowance measurements same for pre-teen bodice patterns too?
I just finish looking at the videos. It is so thorough, easy to understand and solved many of my mystries. Thank you Nehzat and keep up the great work.
Is 'Block pattern' and 'Flat Pattern' the same? Also can your block pattern technique be used for making bodice for pre-teen girls? I need to sew a dress for my daughter for up coming event.
For tracing I usually use carbon paper in the lessons. You can buy carbon paper online or from stationary stores like staples.
My favorite scissors are J. A. Henckles, but in the videos I use a very nice pair of Japanese scissors, they are called Kai. You can order the kai scissors online. I have a small one and a larger one. The large one is about 9 inches long and the smaller one about 6.5 inches long.
For pattern paper I use isle pad paper from staples, or isle paper rolls from ikea. The one from ikea is not very strong, but since it is not see trough and white, I use it in the video lessons for better clarity. The staples one is about 24 inches wide and the ikea paper roll is about 18.5 inches wide.
If you use the pattern drafting paper from a sewing store, the paper will be see trough and allow you to copy on it easily, it will also be very strong.
Welcome to the site. You can definitely find pattern drafting paper online. In the videos I use isle paper pad from Staples or Isle paper rolls from Ikea mainly because they are not see trough and show well on camera. However these papers are not very strong compared to pattern drafting paper.
You can easily take most of the measurements yourself, however for your back bodice length and armpit distance you can use a narrow masking tape. Stick the tape ends on your body, then use a pen to mark the distance. Remove the masking tapes and measure the distance between the marks. Watch the videos again to make sure you place the masking tape in the right locations.
The easiest place online for dress forms is ebay, look for ones that may be pre owned.
Thanks so much for your kind words. The wooden pin cushion you saw was a gift I received from a friend who lives in New York. It has the Bombay Company Label on it. But I don't think they carry it anymore. I did receive it more12 year ago.
I checked the website but they don't have it right now. You may find it in their stores.
For your size cushions, if you are planning to sew 6 cushions with fabric which is 45" or 54 " wide, you will need approximately 3 and a half yard of fabric or 315 cm (3 meters 15 cm) of fabric.
If you buy inyards, you will have about 4 inches of excess fabric, if you buy in meters you will have about 10 cm excess along the length. When you square the fabric you may loose some of the excess if the fabric was not cut straight.
It is always best to buy a little more than you need, so that you won't be left with less than required when you square your fabric. You should also buy more fabric, if the fabric you choose has a pattern which needs to be matched on each cushion.
When you want to cut a plaid fabric, fold the layers in a way that the plaid design match on both sides. Check in different places to make sure and pin before laying the pattern on top.
The plaid should be matching at the hemline on the front and back first. Then as you come up, it may not match perfectly up to the armhole, at the side seams, but thats okay.
Again for the sleeves you should match the plaid at the hemline then the rest will be easier to match.
When you place the pattern on the folded fabric to cut the front pieces or even the back pieces (if you have two pieces for the back), try to match the plaid along the center front and center back lines as well. This and the fact that the hemline plaids match all around the housecoat will give a symmetrical appearance to your work.
Thank you, Nehzat, I had to study this a while, but I think I understand it now. It is wonderful to get answers to questions. I really love this part of your site, it is so satisfying to be able to communicate with you and get a better understanding. Thank you! Thank you!
Sorry for the late reply. We have demonstrated in the sewing machine essentials video lesson a Singer sewing machine with the same style loading mechanism for the bobbin. Here is a link to the video chapter: 18 - Singer - Inserting Bobbin in Bobbin Case, you can also benefit from watching the two chapters following this one.
You may be able to shorten the sleeves above cuffs. So remove the cuffs, mark the excess fabric along the edge and baste the cuffs back on for a fitting, before cutting away the excess fabric. Make sure to bend the arms by 90 degrees at the elbows to test the fit.
Since I can't see the jacket I am not sure if this technique applies to your sleeve style. But it is the best solution from what you have written here.
Thank you for your help and i very happy and enjoy my class. i will learn from your site thank you again regard
Hello, in what video can I see the wooden pin cushion. I looked around but couldn't find it.
Veronica
Hi nattha,
In the video lessons list we have a dress sewing lesson and a skirt sewing lesson, where we use patterns we drafted to sew garments. Below you can find the links.
Here: Skirt Sewing from a Pattern Video Lessons
and here: Dress Sewing with Pleated Skirt, Spaghetti Straps, Piping and Invisible Zipper Video Lessons
If you watch these lessons you will get an idea on how to use the patterns to cut and sew the garments. The style that you want may differ but the basic concept is the same.
Hope this helps
Nehzat
Hi didi,
Here is a link to an older clip with my voice narrating.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQquOUi8GnQ
Nehzat
I looked at a few beginning pant alteration videos but did not hear Nehzat's narration. Please can I see a clip through a link. I would love it. Thank you.
I totally second everything Laulan has written in praise for the site's improvement. She has put my thoughts well in words. There is one more thing I wish to be added. I wish there was an option for 'spell check' like google emails have. I miss things and see mistakes afterwards. it is important to be correct and helpful for other person to provide the correct answer. I hope some day you can add this feature.
Thank you.
Hi didi,
Thanks for your kind words.
You can add between 1.3 to 1.5 cm for the neckline seam allowance. Between 1.5 to 2 cm for the shoulder line. Between 1.3 to 1.5 for the armhole. 2.5 cm for the side seams and 2 to 2.5 cm for the waistline. These measurements can be applied for your pre-teen daughter as well.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi did,
Yes flat and block pattern refer to the same thing. You can use the same bodice block pattern for your daughter as well. The only difference might be that your daughter may not need bust darts because of her figure.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Hi Apple35,
We will add your suggestions to our list of topics for future lessons.
In the mean time, for your collar and neckline issue, you can baste the seams of the collar and not finish it before sewing it to the neckline. Baste the collar to the neckline and see how it fits. This way you can make adjustments if needed, by taking in or letting out at the seam before sewing the collar seams by machine.
Hope this can help you out for now.
Nehzat
Hi apple35,
Welcome to the site. Thanks for your kind words and encouragement.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Becky,
In the lesson on how to draft a full figure skirt block pattern, I teach how to measure the body and draft the pattern so that you do not encounter this type of problem. If you follow this lesson when making a skirt for your friend the back of the skirt will not rise up compared to the front.
If however you want to alter an existing skirt with this issue, you can pull up the front of the skirt below the waistband. Pinch and pin the fabric below the waistband, starting on the center front and work your way to the back on both sides. Finish before reaching the center back. It helps to look in the mirror as well while working, to see how much you need to pinch in order to level the hemline all around.
Then you need to separate the waistband and sew it back again adding the excess fabric to the seam allowance. Make sure to do a fitting before trimming the excess fabric.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Hi! Nehzat,
Good question Louise. I want to know how much seam allowance and where for both the bodice patterns. Are these allowance measurements same for pre-teen bodice patterns too?
I just finish looking at the videos. It is so thorough, easy to understand and solved many of my mystries. Thank you Nehzat and keep up the great work.
Thanks.
Hi! Nehzat,
Is 'Block pattern' and 'Flat Pattern' the same? Also can your block pattern technique be used for making bodice for pre-teen girls? I need to sew a dress for my daughter for up coming event.
Thanks.
Hi taibahtayab,
For tracing I usually use carbon paper in the lessons. You can buy carbon paper online or from stationary stores like staples.
My favorite scissors are J. A. Henckles, but in the videos I use a very nice pair of Japanese scissors, they are called Kai. You can order the kai scissors online. I have a small one and a larger one. The large one is about 9 inches long and the smaller one about 6.5 inches long.
For pattern paper I use isle pad paper from staples, or isle paper rolls from ikea. The one from ikea is not very strong, but since it is not see trough and white, I use it in the video lessons for better clarity. The staples one is about 24 inches wide and the ikea paper roll is about 18.5 inches wide.
If you use the pattern drafting paper from a sewing store, the paper will be see trough and allow you to copy on it easily, it will also be very strong.
Hope this helps you out in your purchase.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi 1coolgranny,
Welcome to the site. You can definitely find pattern drafting paper online. In the videos I use isle paper pad from Staples or Isle paper rolls from Ikea mainly because they are not see trough and show well on camera. However these papers are not very strong compared to pattern drafting paper.
You can easily take most of the measurements yourself, however for your back bodice length and armpit distance you can use a narrow masking tape. Stick the tape ends on your body, then use a pen to mark the distance. Remove the masking tapes and measure the distance between the marks. Watch the videos again to make sure you place the masking tape in the right locations.
The easiest place online for dress forms is ebay, look for ones that may be pre owned.
Hope this helps,
Nehzat
Hi Silkpins80,
Thanks so much for your kind words. The wooden pin cushion you saw was a gift I received from a friend who lives in New York. It has the Bombay Company Label on it. But I don't think they carry it anymore. I did receive it more12 year ago.
I checked the website but they don't have it right now. You may find it in their stores.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Ttaibahtayab,
For your size cushions, if you are planning to sew 6 cushions with fabric which is 45" or 54 " wide, you will need approximately 3 and a half yard of fabric or 315 cm (3 meters 15 cm) of fabric.
If you buy inyards, you will have about 4 inches of excess fabric, if you buy in meters you will have about 10 cm excess along the length. When you square the fabric you may loose some of the excess if the fabric was not cut straight.
It is always best to buy a little more than you need, so that you won't be left with less than required when you square your fabric. You should also buy more fabric, if the fabric you choose has a pattern which needs to be matched on each cushion.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Silkpins80,
When you want to cut a plaid fabric, fold the layers in a way that the plaid design match on both sides. Check in different places to make sure and pin before laying the pattern on top.
The plaid should be matching at the hemline on the front and back first. Then as you come up, it may not match perfectly up to the armhole, at the side seams, but thats okay.
Again for the sleeves you should match the plaid at the hemline then the rest will be easier to match.
When you place the pattern on the folded fabric to cut the front pieces or even the back pieces (if you have two pieces for the back), try to match the plaid along the center front and center back lines as well. This and the fact that the hemline plaids match all around the housecoat will give a symmetrical appearance to your work.
I hope this helps you out. Let me know.
Happy Sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Cherie,
Thanks for the suggestion. We will look into making a video on this topic. I will keep you posted.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Thank you, Nehzat, I had to study this a while, but I think I understand it now. It is wonderful to get answers to questions. I really love this part of your site, it is so satisfying to be able to communicate with you and get a better understanding. Thank you! Thank you!
Carol
Thank you, very much, I look forward to this video.
Carol
Hi Rania,
Sorry for the late reply. We have demonstrated in the sewing machine essentials video lesson a Singer sewing machine with the same style loading mechanism for the bobbin. Here is a link to the video chapter: 18 - Singer - Inserting Bobbin in Bobbin Case, you can also benefit from watching the two chapters following this one.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Carol_,
You may be able to shorten the sleeves above cuffs. So remove the cuffs, mark the excess fabric along the edge and baste the cuffs back on for a fitting, before cutting away the excess fabric. Make sure to bend the arms by 90 degrees at the elbows to test the fit.
Since I can't see the jacket I am not sure if this technique applies to your sleeve style. But it is the best solution from what you have written here.
Hope this helps, Happy sewing.
Nehzat
Hi gardengirl,
Thanks you so much for your kind words. We are working on releasing a pants pattern video lesson soon.
Happy sewing,
Nehzat
Hi Carol,
We will add your topic to our list and will be making a video lesson to show how to sew an overlap slit using the same skirt block pattern.
Thanks for the suggestion. Happy sewing.
Nehzat